I just picked up a Cutter Jet Deville a few weeks ago and have started to install a new transom from the back (without removing the deck). It has an engine compartment as opposed to a stern wide transom that acts as the outboard placement. Just doing clean up of the transom area now, but hope to have a new one end by week's end.
Thats an awesome boat!! I think its from the same year as mine, the smaller 15FT model. I actually prefer the motor well on yours, mine has a stern wide one because it used to be outfitted with two engines (according to fiberglassics library pictures). Good luck with the transom!
Do you have a post about the project? I'd love to see more pictures. Also I might have something interesting for you!
All I can tell you is once you get that baby running, forget about it. 4 strokes start up most every time, no prep needed. My sister-in-law has one on her pontoon boat. Went up to her place for the first boat ride of the year, motor had been used all last year, then stored in a barn on the boat. Started right up, no hesitation at all.
Fair point Frank, I have had multiple 2 strokes (yamaha 25, evinrude 4.5, evinrude 2 horse.. ALWAYS TROUBLE. Now, ive had a 15 HP 4 stroke Honda from the 80s I think, always ran perfect. Cold start was always good.
Im more wondering if mariner is a brand to trust. Ive seen offers from "yamashibi" and other "fake" brands which are obviously lower quality, now I don't think Mariner fits in with those. Its still an off-brand from Mercury, or Yamaha... OR Tohatsu.. Im not sure anymore.
I've never had trouble with my classic big Merc inline motors, but I pamper them. I always run them on muffs before heading for the lake or river to make sure they're gonna start. Also, I use synthetic 2 stroke oil in the gas mix, which I think helps. My Jet Deville will be getting another inline 6, a 70 hp, which is smaller than I have ran in the past.
Thats quite some HP! Im looking at 40-50. I can't use a 2 stroke and 4 strokes are quite expensive (talking 3K+ euros, about 4K dollars) for a second hand one. 2 strokes are banned here. Except for the new E-tecs
Working on a hatch for the engine well. What do you guys think will look better, painted white like the boat or just coat the wood in epoxy resin to get that glossy wood finish? Will post pics of the build later
99% COMPLETED! Stainless transom saver, controll cables installed, new hatch, engine bolted on. All works really well!
However I do have one problem with steering, When I steer the engine to where the cable goes out, it doesnt steer as far as when the cable goes all the way in. I adjusted the small stainless steel part that attaches to the engine and cable already.
More pics coming soon, first trip will be within a week!
It's not an uncommon problem, at least for me. What you might try doing is detach the rod that connects to the motor and when disconnected turn your steering wheel all the way in either direction and then count how many revolutions it takes to the stop in the other direction. Divide that in half and turn your wheel that number of turns so you are now set in what would be your straight ahead position, Example - total helm rotation = 5 turns, 1/2 would be 2 1/2 turns to center. go back to your motor and visibly center where you think it's pretty close to straight ahead. Without moving the steering rod (so the helm doesn't turn or the motor doesn't move) adjust the turnbuckle on the connecting rod so it fits onto the motor. Now you will have the motor lining straight ahead and the helm centered so you'll have 2 1/2 turns full port and 2 1/2 turns full starboard. Your motor will probably have more room to turn one way or the other but at least now you are centered.
You have a nice setup there with more adjustment than most older models. My old OMC's just have a straight connecting rod without adjustment so I mentally have to live with it knowing I can do a hard port but only a soft starboard
Hope this helps, good luck.
I did center the engine and steering wheel, but if I then try to connect the rod from the cable to the engine it does not fit unless I tilt the engine slightly to the right. Maybe I need to find a shorter rod?
Hmmm... Is that an adjustable rod? I see that nut on the rod and wondering if you loosen it can you screw the rod itself in or out? If the rod separates at that point maybe you can remove the male part and have more threads added to it so you can screw it in further.