TOPIC: trailer bearings

anyone know a good source for trailer bearings ?
1960 holsclaw inner bearing and race.
I want to replace them all at this point.Do not know if the auto parts stores carry them ?
Thank`s Robb H

you should be able to get them at any auto parts store,just clean them up and take them with you,so they can compare them,john

If the spindles are a standard size. Like one inch or inch and an eight you can get bearing kits at places like Fleet Farm, Tractor supply, Wally world and I am sure at other discount stores. If not clean up one bearing, race and seal and go to Napa or a bearing store. They will read the number on the part and get you the right stuff.
Oh if the spindels are the standard size as mentioned above. You can buy loaded hubs that means new hubs with bearings, race and seal all greased and installed just slide on the new hub and your ready to go. Around here loaded hubs are about forty a side.

D

I recently (this spring) priced a complete bearing and seal kit for my Holsclaw at Northern Tool. (1" axle) For $10.00 more you can buy a complete hub with studs and nuts ( instead of wheel bolts), bearings, seals and the whole nine yards! (Not original, but you can always save the old parts if you want to go back that way.) Just a thought.........

The bearings and races have numbers on them any parts guy can probably figure out, and often it's the same with seals. For the most part, all these trailer hubs are standard, but not always, and there are kits like these guys are talking about (and spindles) that can be had for reasonable prices. Having said that, I'm betting it's either a standard 1" or 1 1/8" axle...

Good luck!

Frank

Thanks for the good information !!

Single axle trailers are usual 1", or 1 1/16th. Also could be bigger size inner, 1 3/8ths. Never heard of 1 1/8th. My trailer bearing catalog..(Champion Trailer), doesn't even list 1 1/8th. Most can be had at Ebay, if no place near you for them. Still you need to take a hub off, bearing out, slam the races out, seal, get some measurements, and numbers, and take it from there.

You're absolutely right, 1 1/16 NOT 1 1/8. I plead brain dead...

Frank

my single axle trailer is 1 3/4...2000 lbs.

My Electra trailer is a real weird size. Last time I had to order from two or three places to get them and the seals. I take real good care of what I got now. I kept the boxs with numbers on them in case I have to go get them again. The new trailer rims don't bolt right on either. The hub needs machined bigger.

vuyosevich wrote:

my single axle trailer is 1 3/4...2000 lbs.

Ron, we're talking bearing surfaces here (where the hub slides on the end of the axle), not axle outside dimensions!

Frank

oh....

Been a Maintenance Machinist for 21 years, retired now 17 years, (and only 61..yep, plant shutdown, pensioned out at 44, time and service..LUCKY ME!)

So I'm well up on bearings. And the reason..(said 1 1/8th..damn, I do it too!..Meaning 1 1/16th!) For small trailers, 3/4 SPINDLE, almost not seen anymore. Most single axle are 1", or 1 1/16th. Dual axles, big 5000 plus pound barge, would be probably outer, 1 1/16th ..inner prob 1 3/8 's. I just did, one Hub, on the now sold, 7500 pound barge when on the old steel trailer. Then did my Flatbottom, both hubs, this spring, and one side my 20 footer.

Also, why the only 1", to 1 1/16th spindle size, is simple strength, but its a theory, of added mass. Bigger does not mean better, just want to carry the load, and add in for the pothole hitting at 60 mph. There a good thread here , "Trailer talk..(where should have posted, but thats cool now). I replied a person, not knowing how to use Bearing Buddys properly. Find the link, in a second..

Heres the text on reply..thread link at the end..

"I dunk my trailers in salt, (only a block to the boat launch) and done my share of rebuilds over the years. I've had no problems with BB's, on all my 3 trailers. But they are not meant for use as a "re-greaser". Any rebuild, is thats when ya grease'em up good. Then, just a initial slow pump to get the piston to move. NOW, its "pressurized", so water on dunking will not intrude. On the BB's make sure before putting on, piston moved freely. Then pump until movement. Done. Then before using again, push on the piston. If moved in and back, good to go. If not, 1/2 shot, maybe a full pump only until piston movement. Load'em up, and wham, there goes the inner seal.

Think of it this way. The tow ride has probably the same grease in the wheel hubs since new, and seldom re-greased nowadays. Trailer hubs are no different. Only they get dunked in water, and any water intrusion, especially salt, and ya gonna have a problem. BB's work for me, if used properly.

Also seen many pitted inner axle seal surface's, and without a smooth surface, I don't care what ya do, water will get in. Easiest way a remedy? Toss on a "Speedi Sleeve". Hope this helps, as many older trailers REALLY have inner seal issues with grooving and pitting. A link.
www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/KitsAndTools/SpeediSleeve.aspx

Link thread..

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/13-trailer-talk/43684-not-again.html

I want to change my 4 bolt hub to a 5 lug hub. I have no idea what size it is. My trailer is a "Dilly" manufactured in 70. I think its the original trailer that came with the boat.

Robby, seems to me my 3500# axle on the Power Cat trailer was 1 1/16 out and 1 3/8 in.

That speedi sleeve link is a great reference.

Tempest you just need to know the bearing surface o.d. and you shouldn't have any problem finding a 5 bolt hub, like this one for a 1" axle: www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hubs-and-Drums/Dexter/8-258BTUC1.html

Frank

The Speddi Sleeve is the ticket for worn, pitted, grooved seal surface. I rebuilt an old rusty trailer for my Flatbottom, built a new spring carriage, but used the old axle. Its in pretty poor shape, and next time salt gets in there, needing new bearings, I will install the sleeves. I think available (order probably), through NAPA. Probably get the full new hubs too. Not much more money than bearings alone, so might as well do it right! (Like I should have done the FIRST time!)

Hi,
As to the bearings, I cannot add much except to do buy a bearing kit. We can sell these (the last time I remember dealing with them) for $12 to $15 (two bearings, two races, grease seal, and cotter pin).
I think highly of speedi sleeves, but we prefer a spindo seal kit for boat trailer axles (1 inch axle kit shown). These are $14 or so; and include two stainless steel rings which slip over the axle spindle's worn and/or rusty grease seal contact area, two o-rings to help seal these to the spindle, and two high quality sping-loaded grease seals. We strongly prefer to install these when installing bearing buddies, to yield an axle that is almost always trouble free. Bearing buddies for the most part get a bad rap from poor condition spindle seal sealing areas, or over greasing (they are designed with a spring to allow for expansion and contraction of the grease, but we see the grease level so full that the spring loaded piston in the bearing buddy is at or near it's stop, so when the grease expands, it pushes out the seal area in back, or forces the bearing buddy off of the hub front). Also note that these spindo seal rings slip on, and do not have to do driven or pressed on, as they are far thicker stainless and do not rely on the spindle for part of the strength.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com
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WILL be sending for a pair joe, but i have a 1 3/4" axle.ron

WOW !!!!

I think highly of speedi sleeves, but we prefer a spindo seal kit for boat trailer axles (

Thats the other solution..and I have a link for it somewhere, just could not find it! Thanks info..