TOPIC: 1977 MFG gypsy

Hi, I own the 1977 MFG Gypsy that was pictured in the 1977 brochure. My Aunt worked for MFG and employees were given first option on buy the "picture/show" boats. This boat has been stored indoors all it's life. Recently I have noticed cracks in the transom, one at a screw onlong the top rail, a hairline crack on each side of the base where it attaches to the rest of the boat. Since my aunt has passed and MFG has closed I no longer have easily accessible supplies (she used to just bring us whatever we needed!)Since I know little about repairing a boat...any suggestions as to rebuild or replace the transome?? I love this boat as I was at the tender age of 13 allowed to name and care for her. Any help would be appreciated!!

can you post a few pictures, to show us a little better?
by the way mine is a '74


woosterken

Thanks for replying. I did take pictures, hopefully I can attach them.

pictures

Gypsy Girl, try this thread from the support column, it's got some good info on pic sizing. (Normally this is the problem)

www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/support/pic-sizing

Also, to post multiple pics in one post = put the first pic in and make the post. Then immediately "edit" the post to add another. This can be done as many times as you wish.

Apparently not quite savy enough to post pics...will try again

The transom actually is bowing out from the weight of the motor for so many years. It has a 90hp mercury on it

Well I went ahead and got brave...removed the fiberglas over the transom, entire transom rotted. Still working on getting all the wood mush out. I am going to try to replace the transom, can't access all of it without taking the entire top half of the boat off, so am going to have to improvise. I am thinking of doing it in two pieces of 1 inch white oak that lock together then reglass it. Not even sure what materials I will need, but what the heck...am going to try it anyways. Any thoughts??

Being a novice at this myself, I should probably sit back and let those with more experience advise you on this, but........(I never have been very good at being quiet!)

First and foremost, Kudo's to you for going ahead and tackling this issue, I admire your fortitude here.

You may want to consider using a "pourable" transom replacement. I don't recall the name, seems like it was "seacast" or something like that. There was a sponsor on here called Express Composites ( www.expresscomposites.com/ ) that may be able to help, or MAS Epoxies, possibly someone can chime in and help with suggestions. Once ALL the rotted wood is removed, you mix up the chemicals and pour it in place. I've read others experience who say when it dries it's like a rock! I could be wrong, but I don't see how you would get a two piece transom to stand the rigors of an outboard torquing on it. Hope you don't mind my throwing in my two cents worth, maybe somebody who knows what the heck they're talking about will correct me and enlighten you in the process. Please keep the pics coming, we'd love to watch as you go through this process. Good luck with it!

I did ponder the use of seacast, but being unfamiliar with it was just a passing thought. Besides now that I am getting the wood out there is only a thin layer of fiber glass between the transom and the boat interior so that is not an option as it is too thin, does not attach completely to the interior and is in bad shape now that I'm removing the wood. Will have to take more pictures the next time. I am now thinking of doing it all in three pieces after removing the interior wall of fiberglass. One section on each end of the boat and then a locking center piece. As this is where the outboard mounts can actually put a couple screws through to add stability. I want to get a good seal to the exterior aspect of the boat on each side and can make a pattern to get a more desirable fit. I actually have a stainless steel plate on both the interior and exterior of the transom for the motor support so that adds more stability for torque. I'm pretty sure I can get pieces of wood to lock together tight enough as I have quite a bit of wood working experience. Just not sure whether or not to use marine grade ply, if I can even get it, or go with the white oak, which I have ready access to. It seems to me that ply is much more susceptible to water saturation and rot and really don't want to do this again!!

Scroll down to 1978 Conquerer 115 thread- Seacast was used on his transom, seemed happy with the results.

Recommend glassing the rest of the inside transom in, then putting the skin back on after it has been thoroughly cleaned. Then, carefully cut the glass away from the top of the transom (you might want to use a fin multimaster or the inexpensive equivalent from harbor freight for a very clean cut). Now, definitely use pourable seacast. keep it a shade low so that you can fill the very last bit and put the top of the transom back on. The transom will now last very, very long. Putting wood back in makes no sense really, as it will eventually rot again.
Hope this helps!