TOPIC: Low water pickup?

Would one of these work on my '63 1000?



Thanks for any help!

Frank

Not enough info on the cone. The shape and size of your gearcase "bullet" may not match that exact cone. Many of those universal cones fit larger V-6 gearcases. Best to call or email a manufacturer and ask if they have one to fit, or a close fit that needs a little tweak to fit. Keep this up and you'll need to add numbers to the sides, sponsor decals, etc.....

Frank,

Dont worry about adding a LWPU. Unless your planning on going close to 85mph.

Im over 75mph and probably be close to 80 mph this summer and I only use the standard inline 6 case. I do add small water scoops on the inlets. I am running my propshaft 1 inch below the hull. In other words 5 plus inches up on the jackplate.

Nose cones can actually make you go slower if not used correctly. They add suraface area which = DRAG>

Conrad

This is my basic set up. 1/4 inch thru bolts hold it togeteher and block the top 3 holes.

Conrad

Thanks Conrad. I have no need to go 70, let alone 85. I'd love to see a close up of your scoop, and more detail.

A buddy of mine did this with his, do you think something like this will work for me?



His home-made jack plate only raises his motor 4", and he says in rough water he loses water pressure.

I plan to mount my jack plate this weekend, and folks tell me I should mount it such that my cavitation plate is 2" below the hull at its lowest jack plate position. Does that sound about right?

Thanks again for the help!

Frank

Frank,

Yes what your buddy has done will work and get you up a couple of inches at least. I did the same thing before adding scoops. I actuall only used RTV BLUE silicone sealer to block off the top 3 or 4 holes. Squeeze it in there and smooth it off, once dry it holds really well.

After I got past the 3-4 inches up mark just blocking off the top holes did not work 100 percent of the time. It also depends on how the water comes off the back of your boat. Some boats get by without scoops and others need it.

I would get good pressure for a little bit without scoops and then without warning it would fall down nearly flat.

The scoops put VERY good pressure out when running. I get close to 20 lbs of pressure running 75 mph. Lots of that is ram pressure feed.

Let me look for a close up photo. But for now blocking off the top 3-4 holes will help if you go up a few inches. enlarging the remaining ones a tiny bit does not hurt. But you dont need to go crazy. What your buddy did is fine but max hole size before they run into each other.

Let me look for more pics.

Once you get your 1350 on your boat and a good prop you might be surprised what it will do. Once you get the boat free from the water it will walk right up to some serious speeds.
Conrad

This is a bit closer.

here is the photo I was looking for.
Conrad

How thick is that aluminum Conrad? I want to make some of those babies.

Thanks!

Frank

Well, I was hoping to hear from you Conrad. Looks like maybe 1/8th? I think I have some around and will hopefully work on that this weekend.

Enjoy your day!

Frank

I believe Conrad said it was 3/16" in his original post some time ago Frank, let me see if I can find it for you;
www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/17-mercury-outpost/40305-how-high.html#40305

Perfect! Thanks Mark!

Frank

Frank, a few things to consider.... Conrad's gearcase is newer, slimmer, more hydrodynamic. Water coming off the bullet will flow differently. Scoops may or may not help. I agree with plugging the top 3 holes, but suggest testing that before scooping. And if you don't have one yet, a water pressure gauge is a MUST when jacking a motor. Finally, start saving for a chopper prop- you'll need one... or a few.... and a foot throttle...

Boy Kerry, if I can't figure out why I'm having centering and fitment problems, I'll leave the jack plate off and just mount the motor. I need my boat for the water!

The water pressure gauge isn't a big deal, but a new prop is a big deal right now. I'm holding off on a foot pedal for now. I'm just glad I installed hydraulic steering last summer - that was pricey. Plus I dropped about a grand into the trailer this year, but that's done. Next year she gets new fenders, and that's about all I can do for the trailer.

Pics soon.

Frank

Sorry for the delay, I was gone for the last 4 days. Like Kerry said plug the top few holes and test. You may not need the scoops for your gearcase. The pre 1970 gearcases look nearly the same but are 1 inch shorter front to back and the bullet is blunter. I would think that blunt bullet would push a lot of water UP to the water intakes.

You need a water pressure guage NOW before you do anyting at all. I think there are guages on ebay for 30 bucks on up.

You can find chopper props in the 200 range when your ready.

Conrad

No problem Kerry. Over the last 4 days I have lost so much time screwing around with these special clamps I bought for 50 bucks. I ditched them this morning and am going to use my original clamps. Everything seems to work again, so maybe tonight I can progress a bit farther.



Once I get this baby on my boat, I'll worry about plugging holes in the LU and running a water pressure gauge. I'll get one in the next few days. I am not gonna get a foot pedal, as this is never gonna be a drag boat. New prop is a distinct possibility, but I need to get everything back together and see what happens in terms of rpm first. Once I get the boat ready for the water, then I can start working again on the 1350!

Thanks for the help, I'll keep ya posted.

Frank

Not sure what your plan is. But the thumb screws I believe are still needed on that design to support the load. The extra trim bracket bolts add stability to the trim brackets.

Others can chime in if I am wrong.

I run a standard throttle box with a thumb operated trim switch on my boat still. I have the throttle foot, but I still like the normal control box for some reason.

I wear a kill lanyard all the time tho.

Conrad

milkdud wrote:

Not sure what your plan is. But the thumb screws I believe are still needed on that design to support the load. The extra trim bracket bolts add stability to the trim brackets.

Others can chime in if I am wrong.

I run a standard throttle box with a thumb operated trim switch on my boat still. I have the throttle foot, but I still like the normal control box for some reason.

I wear a kill lanyard all the time tho.

Conrad

The kill switch is another cheap must for you Frank...especially with all the air you get...lol...

John is also working on his, I've been following his progress over on the facebook inline six page.

Looks like you two are going to have to have it out at the Silver Lake Dust off!!!

Frank, the foot throttle is for safety, as much as a kill switch. Its a fact that your foot can lift off a pedal MUCH faster than you can grab the throttle and pull it back. Natural reaction, just like in a car. Do as Conrad did and keep the box. The hand throttle is now your "cruise control". Set a safe speed, use the footie for a blast, lift and you return to the set speed. P.S. NOT a race boat??? You have a light 14' tunnel with a 100hp Tower, adding a jackplate, thinking about nosecones, needing a faster prop, and have a 1350 waiting in the wings. Maybe its just me, but that doesn't describe a rig used for mild cruising!!!!!!!!!!!!

frank is lookin for the checkered flag at hammondsport.

I haven't seen many 1350s used for trolling Frank. With that motor you will not have to worry about the bottom getting dirty cus it aint gonna be in the water much. Skip.

Maybe I need to re-think this stuff. I have a hot rod that will do 0-60 in 4 seconds, but is easy to cruise Central Avenue in Albany at 30, and could do it all day long. It's about 375 hp in a 1200# car. My idea here is to have more horsepower (like my hot rod) in a light boat, but still be able to cruise around at 20 or 25. If I'm hearing you guys right, I'll be giving that up with a jack plate, and I should forget about putting this 1350 together and on?

Frank

Frank,
Do not over think all this information it will drive you nuts.
You can still cruise and then blast as you need to. Do not worry about it.
Modern day bass boats do it and you will too. Jack plate stainless prop and Merc 1350 and all.

Thank you Jim. Not much experience with this go-fast stuff in boats, but a bunch in hot rods. Have had a number of high power souped up cars and trucks, but never for all-out racing. Just blast around, look fast, and cruise so everyone can see (and/or hear) what ya got. Figured the way this thread was going, must be boats are different. I was about ready to just say screw the jack plate, sell it, build the 1350, sell it. You've given me hope that I can have my cake and eat it too!

Frank

absolutely!!!

I putted around in my Carlson @ 30 mph for about an hour last friday with my feet driving the boat to tan my feet if that helps you out.

Every once in awhile Id blast up to 70 to knock the sweat off then resume cruize.

Conrad

What I really want to know Conrad is did it work, and do you have pics of tanned feet? ;>}

Yes, but I cheated and sat on a beach in FL this weekend too.

Nothing wrong with a bit of cheating when it comes to tanned feet. I get to sit on the beach in Ocean City MD 8/17-8/24. Would rather go someplace boating, but the wife requires ocean beach time once a year...

Frank

Same reason I have. Wife planned the trip.

Aha! I am not the only whipped dude around here! Glad to hear it...

Actually, sitting on the beach in August is okay with me. I'd rather go to some quiet lake and raise heck, but my time will come! Plus we got a heck of a deal, condo right on the boardwalk.

Frank

Sorry, Frank. Didn't want to scare you away, just be safe. An added benefit of going faster with the 100 is an increase in fuel economy at part throttle. If you currently need 4000 RPM (guessing) to go 35mph and only need 3200 RPM after the mods, you save gas. Just want you to be properly rigged when you go for it, so you will be posting boat pics instead of recovery pics.