TOPIC: Making Progress on Merc 400

Thought some of yall might like the pics.of progress I'm making on the Merc 400. Alum. foil works great on masking, painted all the Wilbelton White first,then the engine color. Putting everything back on tomorrow if I get the fuel lines made.
Milton

Looking good there. That will be one fine looking motor when you get done with it.That paint you used is a good match to the original color. Lots of rebuilders use that color. Keep posting pics as you go along. Keep up the good work, Skip.

Looks great Milton.
Looks like that is not the only project in that shop.

did you replace any gaskets or seals? gonna look good.

Looks Great, cant wait to see the finished project.

Got everything back on The Merc 400 motor wise. Gonna try to finish the hood tomorrow. Still have to tackle the water pump.
Thought I'd throw in a pic.of the Dodge 241 Red Ram Hemi ( 1953-1st V8 by, 1st year for Dodge Hemi) that's going in my 46 Dodge pickup.

had a 54 coronet w/ a 241 hemi. 2 speed auto.

Stripped the hood this morning, got it primed,painted, and clearcoated. Got all the trim back on, turned out nice. Gonna start on the engine cover tomorrow, wish me luck. Gotta strip, work out a few dings, then start on paint.

P.S. Any tips on getting the white stripes looking good?
Was thinking about painting all white, masking off with black 1/8" tape, then the black (what color black?) then removing tape. Will that work?
Thanks in advance, Milton.

Looking nice!

Worked all day Friday on engine cover but when I pulled off the stripe tape it pulled off the white.(get out the laquer thinner)
Today it came out better, used some heat from heat gun to remove tape.
Gotta do some light sanding to clean up small tape ridges and then time for clear coat.

GREAT JOB !!!!!!!!!!!!

Very nice work Milton, she's looking beautiful! Your attention to detail is really paying off, IMHO.

Sweeeet!

Hi,

I have the exact same engine and needed some help on where to get paint from. I have looked at Duplicolor ceramic paint in spray can or rustoleum engine paint. I have looked at a variety of paint but "cloud white" the 1961 color at 22.95 a spray can didnt make sense to me. Maybe thats me.. Also, how many cans of paint did you use? Mine runs fine just wanted to make it like new. How did you choose over the engine paint if you didnt use it?

Also, on another note: For any experts out there.

Mine leaks oil in the lower unit. I used the premium lube and then swapped to lubriplate 105 (dont know if there is a outboard version) but now its hard to get the lubriplate out of the drain hole. I have replaced the water pump but due to my first time on an outboard cant find or what else needs to be replaced if getting water in the lower unit. I know its not a good thing and have used it leaking but wanted to get it fixed. Any recommendations would be great. Versus the min 250-300 the vintage mercury man wants here in FTW, TX. Thanks

Man those photos of your 400 make me want to get started on mine. That looks primo and gives me some good ideas also. Those are sweet motors. I got mine fired up last fall thanks to Dave Bernard and its been sitting there covered up waiting for me. Back surgery has slowed me down for now and I have a few projects to finish. maybe this fall. Seeing yours is getting me pumped up. NICE !!
Hugh

BuddyRay.

Not sure if you can still find it but I used DupliColor Wibeldon White (from auto parts store) and it was only about 6 a can. It is the cloud white color that the early Ford's also used. It was getting hard to find the last I tried tho.

As for your lower unit getting water in the gear lube....you will need to replace the prop shaft seals which is a bit more complicated than what you have done but not that hard with a manual.

Good luck.

Tim

Thanks for the help,


Yes, I will look for the wimbledon white. I have heard of that before. Also recommend a clear gloss also? Did you wetsand as well? Also, they say use a "self-etching" primer. Any particular brand matter? Whats your thoughts on the engine paints? The gloss white isnt the original but would pop with my drk green glass magic.

As far as the lower unit.....
Is it safe to use temp till I get a chance to tear it down? I have the service manual from Mercury for 1965 and prior but the 400 doesnt have many illustrations. I had the hardest time finding a "good" manual. You mention the prop shaft seals? The one behind the prop? Vintage shop mercury guy says there is another underneath the waterpump impeller? Also, whats your thoughts on that lubiplate 105 grease I am running in there now over the premium lube. Also, do I need to take apart and relub the dynafloat as well?

Thanks a ton for your help. Ill try and get a pic. Seems mine are larger and wont unload.

Brian

Got the Wilbelton White @ O Reilleys Auto Parts, infact primer and clearcoat. About $7 or $8 ea. Just spray light coats first (about 3 times) can go a little heavy on last coat, but don't push your luck. Took me 3 times on cowl cover, 1st time had it finished and when I pulled the 1/8 tape it took it back to primer, 2nd time got in a hurry and had bad runs in white (strip with laquer thinner again. 3rd time learned to use heat gun to warm up 1/8 tape to remove, no problem. Hope everything goes well.
New project now, 1956 Feathercraft Vagabond ll,on with the polishing.
Milton
Weatherford,Tx. There is another seal just under the impeller.

I used the Duplicolor Wimbeldon white for my 35A came out great. I got the cans at Advanced auto parts. but they only stock 2 or 3 cans per store. I also baught a case on Amazon 6 cans. I didnt do any wet sanding as it looks great right as is. Not a good pic but...

The seals in the lower unit are not going to be the biggest issue, the shafts will be. Typically the seals will have worn grooves in the shaft sealing area that must be repaired or all your work will be for naught. There is a special wrench for removing the covers on the lower unit but it is available for reasonable cost from John Mcintosh ( This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. ) and after that the rest is pretty easy. Use regular gear lube in the lower unit afterwards, not synthetic and it will run for years.