TOPIC: Help Wanted With Merc 1000 - Green Bay

I'm not sure if this is an appropriate thing to ask or not, but I'm in need of assistance. I have a '65 Merc 1000 on a '65 Glasspar Seafair Sedan. The motor starts and runs well, but my mechanic says the top bearing(s) are making a bunch of noise and he recommends not running it until it's fixed.

He has offered to pull the powerhead and work on it over the winter, while the rest of the rig is in storage. He'll put it all back together in the spring. That plan sounds good, but he says the repair could run as much as $1200-1500 or more. It depends on what he finds when he gets into it. That's still cheaper than finding another motor, and who knows what that one may need. So, I'm about to go that route unless I find an alternative plan.

Here's where my question/request comes in. Is there anyone on the board here that lives nearby with the facility and ability to tackle this project? I'd love to find someone near Green Bay that does this as a hobby, so I could maybe avoid paying "Shop Rates"! Are there any Moonlight Merc Mechanics here in NE Wisconsin?

My email is: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. and I'd love to hear from you! Greg Beardmore - Green Bay

If this isn't appropriate, please delete this post.

I know of a guy over in the Twin Cities (MN) area that may be willing to help you out Greg, if you're willing to take a little road trip (x2, actually)? I'll put you in touch with him if you're interested, comes highly recommended. (I have no personal experience with him, however.) Honestly, not sure it would be any cheaper, but may be worth checking out?

I just sent a message to a guy that runs a merc rebuild-exchange in SC. I will let you know

Before you tear it down completely, you might consider a little "exploratory surgery".

The upper crank bearing on this model can be replaced without complete disassembly (or even removal) of the powerhead.

Just pull the flywheel with the appropriate puller, remove the (4) screws securing the stator, (4) bolts securing the upper bearing cap, and the cap with pressed-in bearing comes straight up and out.

Note that you should not pry on the joint between bearing cap and block, instead there are holes tapped into the cap that can be used to pull the cap upwards.

Apply heat around the O.D. of the cap and the bearing may just fall out. Otherwise it can be easily pressed out and a new "5206" bearing pressed in. This bearing is relatively inexpensive and readily available, check at your nearest bearing specialty house or on the internet.

Consumables requiring replacement for this job would be the crankshaft oil seal and bearing cap O-ring.

If you're up to this job, we can walk you thru it.

The most critical thing is to have the proper flywheel puller. The ones you see on eBay etc have fine threads for the flywheel hub center hole; on older models the thread is National Coarse not Fine. So you have to be sure to get a puller with the correct threads. Failing that there are other ways to get the durned thing off with a regular harmonic balancer puller, but we'll cross that bridge if we get there.

Last thought, pull the top hat, grab hold of that flywheel and reef it around, up and down, then alternate one side pulling up while pushing the other side down.

If you hear a lot of "creak creak" you may have a broken flywheel flex-plate, which is a much easier job than upper bearing replacment or complete rebuild!

Many a flex plate has a Mercury busted, it's a well-known problem and I can personally attest that a broken flex plate sounds very much like a bad upper bearing.

HTH & let us know what you find...........ed

Ed is "right on" here, and has provided a great explanation of the steps necessary. This is something that might take a full day, but is not really too difficult of a job.

I would be wary of anybody working on an old motor that says "maybe $1500 or more." In general, you can get you a newly re-furbished merc1000 for that kind of money.

Best of luck!

Frank

I agree with Ed as well but $1500 to keep the motor you know and love that is correct for your boat is money well spent. Go buy another newer 100 HP and then complain about the $$ spent. Sometimes the newer technology and use a newer motor has had on it is not so favorable. The old saying goes something like the devil you know is best and that 1965 Merc 1000 looks fantastic on your Glasspar. Even at the rate I charge per hour and by the time parts and time come in to service everything the estimated cost given is not unreasonable.
At this age of the motor if it is in good condition like your M-1K looks to be why not freshen it up for another 45 years of dependable life. If you do not have the time or skill is it worth it to you to spend the money is what it boils down to.
A newly refurbished Merc 1000 is a bit more than 1500 to 2000. I am finishing a 1966 Merc 650 short shaft rings gaskets, bearings, carb kits lower unit parts, paint decals those things cost $$ plus any machining you might need. I am sure that motor will look awesome in my barn until the right buyer comes along that wants it.
Take some discovery steps but if you can't do the work and can't commit the time it may be worth it to keep the vintage package in tact especially if you trust your mechanic.

Will your mechanic work with you? That is,what if you strip it down and take the head to him? A lot of the money being charged and rightly so is for labor.As long as your that far what is your compression numbers? Might be time to throw some rings on or better yet new pistons.Carbs are off now,lets rebuild them! I think that once you get into it the guys on here can walk you through it.Doing it that way in the end you will have a lot more satisfaction in the outcome.I agree keep the "two of them together"

Hi Greg,
It is possible that the upper bearing is gone, but I doubt if that is the problem there are not more. That bearing gets lube from the upper cyl charge jst as all the bearings for the number one cyl do so if this bearing got trashed then other parts probably did too. Ball and roller bearings need a minimum amout of lube oti stay happy and I doubt this motor was ever pushed hard on this rig. This bearing is also larger due to supporting the flywheel so it is oversized and not working hard.
Noise could be coming from your flywheel...which would be DANGEROUS to run.. Merc did have issues with the flexplate style flywheels. They are constructed as an outer ring and an inner hub. These are bolted to a flat piece of round sheetmetal plate. It is not unheard of to have this plate to crack around the inner bolts or for the bolts to loosen. I have also seen many a person try to remove the flywheel by removing all the inner bolts from the hub, this is WRONG!! Not knowing the history of your motor a bad mecahnic may have done this at some point to replace the timing belt.
Flywheels are readily available, yours has the plain tapered crank end so any flywheel for an inline 6 or a 4 from 64 to about 69 will work, they are all interchangeable. Later years like the 70's look the same but the hub has splines and a taper, so look for this detail when shopping. Not sure about gear tooth count but looking at what I have I would say they are all the same, count yours and verify. DO NOT pry on the crank case seem when bolts are loose. Lube up the new oring and the crackcase bore when reinstalling to ease oring compressing. When cap is seated retighten the cranckcase bolts. Watch for the a thin brass
shim (s) under the cap, these need ot go back in, it sets crank endplay. In some cases there is no shim but look.
I think the flywheel is far more likely than the bearing, it will make the noise you are hearing. Your mechanic would be making a very easy repair as he may know this is really the problem, but I don't want to accuse.
If it is the bearing everyone has given good advise. The only thing I'll add is I would loosen the top 2 bolts on each side that hold the crackcase together. This eases the compession on the cap when removing it, I have never had an issue with a leaking crack seam after retigtening when cap is reinstalled. The O-ring on the cap reaches down almost past this point.
For what it is worth, I have used the same puller on all my flexplate flywheels from 62 up to 76. They thread into the center of the hub after the flywheel nut and washer are removed, then the center bolt with it's shoe pushes against the crank, when tightened. You should also get a flywheel holder, availanble at any auto parts store, it holds the motor from turning while you are unbolting and using the puller. It engauges on the flywheel teeth, almost looks like a big oil filter wrench with two teeth rather than a loop.
Randy

Thank you all so much for taking the time to address my posting! I really appreciate all the thoughtful words of advice. Y'all have reinforced my original thought that I really do want to keep the rig "period correct". In the next day or so she'll go to the shop for her winter repairs.

In the long run the investment will be very much worth it. Thanks again to everyone that took the time to reply!!

Greg
Go Pack!

Greg
I hope all turns out well with the old girl. Nothing like the looks of an old black 1000 hangin' on the transom.
My wife is from the Stevens Point area. That would make us HUGE Packer fans also. 6-0 Go Green Bay! !
Neil

That is a really nice boat you have there. Love that vintage. Good luck with her!

Go Eagles! Well......never mind.