TOPIC: '65 Merc 65 HP

I found a '65 Merc 65 HP, not running, but looks decent, in white. Is white the correct color for this year? I believe it saw some salt? What should I expect to pay for somthing like this? The guy told me to make him an offer.

Though someone here might need it or want it. I am in NJ.

I don't know anything about these engines, by the way.

I believe it should be black if a 1965.White was around 1960, Dr FrankenMerc will have the correct answer.Or go to oldmercs.com and look it up. I have two fresh water 1966 65s [Black] and paid 300 with controls per motor and excellent compression.Corrosion may be factor with saltwater and the drive shafts being a non stainless steel.Also the wiring may be suspect.Price is dependant upon seller's haste to sell unit,if any,condition of motor and what you are looking for such as a period correct engine or parts motor etc. He may take 100, who knows? start out lowballing and be ready to walk.I personaly would never buy a used saltwater engine of that year without expecting to throw a ton of money into it.I am sure others may not agree with that statement.

NO merc 650 65hp were made in white only black.price depends on condition.

Uh...Dave...white only black?????

The 1965 Merc 650 was originally black (Phantom Black).
I believe the '65 model would have still had a magneto ignition, which may require a bit more maintenance than the later models with solid state ignition, but it is a good magneto system.
If it has been used in salt water it is more likely to have corrosion problems in the water jackets, and the related capscrews will be very difficult at best to remove to clean up and re-seal IF a problem is visible. (if it is not visible - leave it alone)
The most common area that corrosion will eat through and become apparent that things are compromised at best inside will be on the front area of the port side baffle cover - just below where the throttle's vertical link attaches to the baffle cover.
Inside the cover is a narrow passageway below this area that plugs up easily and then corrosive salt water deposits build and block off the passageway and as the electrolysis eats away at the aluminum it slowly pushes the aluminum cover out until it busts open and eventually a significant cooling water leak can form.
The original drive shaft is steel - not stainless - and if the lower unit has not been replaced with a later model unit the steel driveshaft is most likely damaged by rust pitting, etc at the seal surfaces below the water pump housing and will require a speedi-sleeve to correct the problem (along with seals & o-rings of course).
They are a sweet running & smooth idling 4 cyl, but were a limited production so some parts are tough to come by.
Lots of parts - typical to Merc - will work off other model Mercs - but not everything.
I may sound like the 'grim reaper', but I'm just trying to point out a few things to be aware of. I personally find them a great performing old classic that is the perfect size for lots of hulls.
Thom

Sounds like its not worth the price of admission. I thought it might be of some use to someone here. The guy has a ton of stuff, but most of it is not worth it, some other people might think he has gold. Heck he thinks he's got gold.

10 engines all in supposedly running condition, except nothing is currently running and needs a this or a that.

Time to walk away.

I have a 65 and a 66 Merc 650 they both have the magneto distrib. Fresh watr motors thankfully. Tough to find them this old and used in salt unless they have been (by some miracle) flashed and maintained religously.

Lots of them around, sounds like you need to keep looking however.

Good engine, I have three of them. Very heavy for the horsepower, but tough as all get out and smooth as silk. Very easy to work on especially with the mag ignition, but the early engines have different blocks than the later red stripe engines so some bits like the water jacket covers can be hard to find. Best to find a donor engine for parts, get a copy of the Mercury Marine service manual, not one of the many clones like Seloc which are only useful for lining the birdcage, not for fixing engines. Bearings and seals you can buy locally, and most dealers won't have anything to do with an engine that old anyway. You can download the parts manuals from the internet as it is nice to be armed with the part numbers when you head to the dealer. Oh yes, the serial number is paramount, so make sure you record this somewhere, you will need to refer to it a lot. You can do most of the work yourself, but getting into the innards of the lower unit will require special tools which thankfully are being reproduced in the aftermarket. Compression should be 120 on each cylinder, and a new water pump impeller is a must. Fresh gearlube in the lower unit if there is no water in the oil, fresh plugs and she should fire right up. Propping needs to be done to the top of the rev range, don't lug this engine, let her rev! Let us know what you find on your hunt and we will be here to advise on anything you need.

What is the difference's between the early & late powerheads, apart from what George has mentioned above? I seem to recall they are a different capacity & can you fit a later block in place of an early? I have two later 650's, a '68ss long & a '69 shorty, plus a spare later freshwater p/h (rare here in the UK - freshwater I mean) I also have a 'skinny' '64 shorty that is VERY salty . . .

I love them, as stated above, heavy for the power but a sweet sweet motor.

Geoff

I don't think you would have much luck putting a '65 or later 650 and 650ss powerhead in place of a '63-'64 650.
The primary problem I can think of is the factoid that the early 650 had the lower pan between the powerhead and the drive shaft housing (DSH) and the '65 and later used a separate exhaust extension plate (EEP) between the powerhead and the DSH.
Consequently the gasket between the powerhead and the lower pan or the EEP is configured differently.
Another related problem would be that the early 650 with the solid lower pan also had bosses on the top cover (water jacket around the spark plugs) to secure the top hat (rewind housing) while the '65 and later 650 - 650ss has the boss cast onto the top of the block aft of the flywheel to support the internal cowl support system that carried the 'floating' lower pan.
Could you put a '65 or later 650 or 650ss powerhead with its original EEP and related floating pan and inner cowl supports onto an early 650 DSH?
Perhaps,...But I don't know if the '65 and later 650 & 650ss EEP and related exhaust tuning tube will slide down into the older style DSH - AND - the early 650 used the thin aluminum 'wrap' to conceal the powerhead retaining studs and nuts where the system with the '65 and later 650 & 650ss would use the cast aluminum 'cowl' to conceal the studs and nuts, and I'm not sure if the later cast aluminum 'cowl' would properly conceal the older designed irregularities originally concealed by the thin aluminum wrap.
That's the short answer.

Internal parts swapping won't work out well if I'm remembering correctly.
The early 650 had end caps with the ball bearings pressed into the endcaps with a 'slip-fit' on the crankshaft where the later (not sure of the specific year change) 650 - 650ss had the slip-fit between the ball bearing and the end caps and required the bearings be pressed onto the crankshaft.
I'm not sure on bore and stroke and related pieces, but it seems like I recall there is a difference. I don't have the specs in front of me to refresh my memory by today.

And,...The '70s 650 3 cylinder is an entirely different aminal and topic filled with contempt.
Thom

Followed this thread today and saw the oblique comparison between certain 3 cyl 65hp and the old trusty 4cyl version we all respect.

George, hope this is ok to post?? This will give everyone a New Years laugh.......here's a repost of the best comparison I've ever seen on the subject, I laugh every time I see it!

Somebody was asking about a humourous post George Garland had made eons ago
about a comparison between the 4 cyl and 3 cyl Merc 650's. As I remember it,
George said he didn't save it and couldn't recall the exact words...
Why i still have this around, I have no clue.
Without further adieu, and also without expressed written consent from the
author, a re-run of George's work...

"In an earlier post, Pat asked if there was a difference between the 4 cyl
and 3 cyl Merc 650's"......
George replied thusly:

You have to be kidding.

Pat, these engines are as different as chalk is to cheese. The four cyl was a sweet, refined lady in a black dress and just a hint of jewelry worn in exquisite taste that knew fine wine, danced well, was soft spoken and never let you down. She was a little heavy, but carried it well, and was the model of refinement and good taste. By comparison, the three cylinder was a bony trailer trash trollop in a cheap dress that never fit right, foul of mouth swilling cheap muscatel out of a paper bag behind the liquor store, and she would put a knife to your throat in a heartbeat. A disgrace to the name.

'Nuff said"


After reading that I've never purchased a 3 cyl 65.

Gawd, my past has come back to haunt me....

However, to this day I still stand by every word. Even Merc built some dogs back in the day, but interesting enough this was built after Carl K. had left the company. If he were still there I am sure he would have choked the life out of the engineer who designed it!

I have a 68 Merc 650 long shaft. I want to get going. So far it is not stuck,the starter works Will check compression this spring and see if it is worth saving. I bought it boat mtor and trailer $200.
Trailer is good the boat needs a floor and seats, 85 trihull.

Good year for that engine, lovely graphics, but watch the electronic ignition, as it ages it can be problematic. I have converted a few back to mag ignition with good results. On that tri hull watch the propping, they can be a bitch to run cleanly as they do have a fair amount of drag and are no speed demon. If the compression is sound and there is no water in the lower unit then put in a new impeller and give it a whirl! Hopefully the carbs are clean, biggest problem with the oldies is stale gas left in the carbs to gum them up. If you need to clean them take them to a carb shop for a ultrasonic cleaning, money well spent. You can strip and reassemble them yourself, but use new gaskets and watch the brass jets, easily damaged if you don't have good tight fitting screwdrivers. As with all these engines a Merc service manual is essential and must be followed to the letter, especially when it comes to ignition timing and prop setup, they will really come alive when properly rigged and propped to the top of the range. As the old ads used to say, test drive a Merc 650 before you buy it and then try to say "I'll think about it."

A great engine.

That pic is of my l/shaft George! Where did you find it? I took it in the Carrick Roads, Falmouth, Cornwall, England 2009. Sadly it is salt water but always has a serious 1hr + flushing session afterwards, inc. Xsalt or similar & antifreeze in the winter. Luckily our end of season club meet is in fresh water.

Thanks Thom, you have confirmed my thoughts.

i think someone should do a collage of 65 triples & make a birthday card for George with it!

At the very least we should give george some Karma. I did my bit!