TOPIC: Merc shift/throttle cable length for '60 G3

I recently acquired a 1992 Mercury 3 cyl 75 HP for my '60 Glasspar G3 Center Deck. Can someone advise me on the length of throttle and shift control cables for this application? I will appreciate the information. Thanks.

Doug

I'll try and get that answer for you tomorrow.
doc

I couldn't find the measurement on the cables in Mercury Momma's G-3, so I did the best to measure it accurately.

I'm 'pretty sure' that they are 12 ft, Teleflex CC17912
doc

Thanks, Doc. I figured it would be about that as the Teleflex steering cable is 13'. If I may, I have another question. My engine's (Model No. OD230618) flywheel is protected with a plastic piece called the Cover Assembly on the parts list at MarineEngine.com. It's held in place by three studs and wing nuts. One of the studs is missing and the other two are rusty and deteriorating. I cannot find the studs or the engine part that carries them in anywhere in the parts list. Can I operate the engine wisely/safely without the Cover Assembly if the studs fail or do I need to replace the studs. If I need to replace them, can you point to me to where they are in the parts list? Thanks for you help and insight, Doc. I really appreciate you and the wealth of knowledge you bring to the forum. Here' a pic of my G3 in quiet repose.



Doug

Thanks for the kind words.
They are greatly appreciated.

Here is the part number for the (3) studs.
16-8M0045410
They are shown on this parts page under your serial number:
Induction Manifold & Reed Block for Mercury / Mariner (75 / 90 HP (3 Cylinder)) Engine

You can run the beast without the flywheel cover, but with the cowlings off, it is way too easy to get hurt running without the cover.
I probably have those studs (used), and I probably have the cast pieces they thread into if needed.
doc

OK, Doc. I see it now. Can I just cut the two remaining studs flush, drill the stub out, and retap the hole? Or is there a better way to go? Thanks again.

Doug

I wouldn't cut off the studs, until all else has failed.
I would smack the upper ends with a hammer - to jar the corroded threads.
And,...Smack them sideways down close to the casting with a punch.
Then use MAPP gas to heat the cast aluminum they are threaded into.
Heat to 250-300 degrees F, being careful not to direct the heat towards any wires or flammable parts.
Measure the temperature with a cheap (Harbor Freight) laser thermometer.
Then try and remove them with a pair of vise grip pliers.
Try turning them out, and then in,...back-n-forth.
If you get the least bit of movement, but they still feel pretty tight, try stopping the turning in the middle of any free movement, and repeat the smacking, and heating described above.
Be patient, and you could win the battle.
doc