TOPIC: Reed Block Inspection

Is there a way to inspect the reed blocks without opening the block? Such as snaking a cable camera into the block with the carbs off or some such.

Here she sits waiting while I complete the restore of my 1962 (wood) Thompson Sea Lancer. This is the '63 I build the custom Petronix electronic ignition for (which actually works!)

Don't think there would be any way to get in there to see anything. The clearance is so small that even if you were looking right at the gap between the crankshaft surface and the i.d. of the reed block, it'd be quite difficult to see any wear.

Best indication of good sealing on the internals is idle quality. If she purrs at idle, it's all tight inside.

External inspection of the reed blocks can point out excessive wear; if the labyrinth rings are mushroomed, they're shot. The grooves should have well-defined, sharp edges.

The Doc has had someone restore reed blocks in the past. They make a new insert, machine-out the center of the reed block and install the new insert (with pins as I recall but maybe something else too). Maybe the Doc will post with details of the process.

Cheers.........ed

Thats Dave Lautermilch that re does the reed blocks. There is an inline six group on faceboook where he hangs out. Kinda like the old newsgroup days but on facebook.

Thanks guys. She idles poorly, and the spark plugs have an un-even 'finish' on them . BUT! I'll rebuild the carbs and such and if after that I still get a stumbly idle, I'll consider the next step.

Points dwell setup on these is really critical to good idle.

Also I've seen many of these where although the rubber sheath of the plug wire was still crimped securely in the brass screw-in terminal, the wire was pulled back and not making contact with the terminal. Not enough spark energy from the non-CDI system to jump a gap like that. Solution was a new set of wires.

Use Packard 440 or better stranded metal-core wires for any replacements.

Haven't seen a lot of the older 90-and-smaller c.i. Sixes be terribly fussy at idle from worn reed blocks.

I have a feeling the 99-c.i. Sixes, making much more power, are whipping that crankshaft around so furiously that you tend to get more crankshaft flex & subsequent reed block wear.

The older Sixes are running lighter pistons, lighter rods, shorter strokes, so maybe not as much stress internally.

Cylinder sealing is a much more important issue on these, I'm assuming compression checks are good. You may need to do a leakdown test if you can't get the lumpy idle fixed with external adjustments/repairs.

HTH......ed

Thanks Ed. Totally agree on the points/dwell on these dual ignition motors. When I had it dialed in she was smooth as silk. Over time though I couldn't get the same results even with new points.

This is the motor that I built a custom electronic ignition for by retro-fitting a Petronix igniter II set up (there is a long thread somewhere here on outpost). With that set up, it starts easier, idles better and runs smoother at speed. But she still doesn't feel or sound right. Sounds out of balance.

Perhaps a winter project to kit the carbs again.