TOPIC: 1962/63 Merc 500 for $70 and nice trim

Lucky I got their early, now I have a motor to power my Wacanda and I can get the lower from Doc and fix my 450 for the Pacific Mariner and the 950ss for the Stiletto, hope to have a boat in the water this weekend for my first fiberglassic launch.
Steve

cool, nice score

I'm putting twins on my 16ft Prywing

firstfibre wrote:

hope to have a boat in the water this weekend for my first fiberglassic launch.
Steve

AWESOME! We definitely need pictures!!!

Thanks guys, getting excited to do something other than sail, wonder if I can put a 450 and a 500 as twins

Yes . put the tuner on the 450 or remove the tuner on the 500.

Well, you won the Craigslist Lottery on that one! I saw it and couldn't believe they were selling so cheap. Nice, clean motor and it looks like there are a few decent days coming up, weather-wise. Have fun on your "maiden voyage" & be sure to post a few pics, so we can all drool!

Thanks Ed-mc, yes it was 1.5 hour drive there to meet him when he got off work and fun traffic back to Anacortes, just hooked it up and fired it up, thought it was trashed but finally got it to fire, no piss coming out so have to see if the impeller is gone, maybe that is why it's misfiring it's over heating
I could have offered less but felt guilty, its in pretty great shape and the controls pretty good but need to go to Oriellys and have them replace the end part of the battery cables.

The telltale on those models is easily plugged, since there is a convoluted passage that goes from the lower cowling into the exhaust plate. The quickest way to tell if water is flowing thru the powerhead is to feel the exhaust manifold cover. It'll get hot in no time at all if there's no water circulation.

When you get down to the impeller, check the drive pin/key. Earlier models have a pin in a slot. Make sure the pin is in good shape, if it's worn it'll strip the new impeller and fry your motor.

If the driveshaft has a flat on it instead of a pin groove, and the old-style drive pin is still in there, replace the pin with a newer-style flat key. The old-style drive pins wear grooves in the flat due to rocking back-and-forth. The wide, flat part of the key gives more driven area and drives the impeller more securely.

Be sure to scrape any crusty rust buildup on the driveshaft where the impeller sits. The impeller is supposed to be able to move a bit up-and-down within the pump. If it's really tight on the shaft, it'll bind either at the top or bottom and be ruined in short order.

If you have trouble with any scarce bits, give the Doc a holler, he's got plenty of spare bits in his part bin!!!

Cheers........ed