I'm guessing you meant 3m 5200, don't know of a 520 but anyway I would go with what Cal said but be advised once you use that 5200 it will NEVER come off, with out cutting it. Once dried no solvent will remove it so it's pretty permanent. It comes in white/black or Mahogany color. IF you ever want to remove the seat again I would use 3M 4200 but I think it only comes in white. I use 4200 for fittings and things I might want to remove again later without having to use a multi tool with a slicing blade to get it off. lol Just my 2 cents.
yes 5200 i got it online at walmart for $16.00 but white seemed like the only option. I am going to use it on the two wood rails the run along the hull to support the seats and on the very bottom of the two middle bench seat supports. all those items seem to have had a black adhesive on the joining parts when i took things apart. I was not going to do the actual bench board to the supports as those spots just had the screws and bolts connecting them.
thanks for checking in and the info
got down to the bare wood to do the adheasive. And I am putting on on my final coat of varnish. I think it is number 7 or 8 regardless that's my limit ( especially working outside doing this) and i am on my 3 gallon of varnish ( i think I did put on too thick of a coat as I applied them. IF there is ever a next time more ceps, more sanding, and thinner coats of varnish, i'm learning , lol
adding a little color splash to the outside. i think i put on 8 coats (outside finished) and i have one more to do on the inside. and i can start to put things back together.
But looks like a lot of rail for a while so it will have to wait
Beautiful restore. Obvious the time and effort you put in it. The beauty really begins to show. Can't wait to see it on a trailer with some power hanging on the back.
Any idea of what you want to hang on the back? A late '50 OMC would fit the bill. About a '59 35hp Big Twin would match up. Would be fairly easy to find on Craigs or someplace. They are extremely easy and simple to work on and parts are reasonable and available. IMHO, partial to 'rudes.
Thank you for the link. it would look very cool with a period restored motor but the money is just not there right now.
Sooooo, i settled for a $ 450. , 40 hp mercury running but recommended to replace the water pump and i need the correct size cables ( i already sold the steering wheel and cable for 95. that you guy gave me with it so that reduced the cost even more and i sold the bad motor that cam with the boat for 75.00 lol
OK some more or less final pics of it , but still need a nice horn and lines, I did come with an anchor and i did fix up he old gas tank. Electric wiring and motor to deal with next
went cheap on the plexeglass windshield for now and bought an epoxy to fix the crack. Now that the boat is looking good I may have to at least paint the trainer i got with it lol one thing leads to another always
adding some extra transom wood to make it the correct height for length for the motor. i put a metal rod in and the metal plate is going on both sides they came with the boat
Im working on the motor i bought, it needed a impeller, i hope i got the lower section back in correctly , you think it could be designed better in lining all the rods up going back in.
and now I discovered it needs a coil ( or at lease thats what im thinking)
just an update i have been doing a few postings in the mercury outboard section. I have a no spark issue with the motor i bought used and am working to find the problem. But running out of good weather then also i was not getting water out of the pee hole after i changed the impeller. but I think i can resolve that after talking with Joe Poole at Ferguson-Poole marine he has been very helpful with parts and info i need. I am now waiting for a trigger