1960's Columbian Fury made in CT. I found this on craigslist over a year ago and was part of a property clean out. He was more interested in selling me the John Deere tractor. The picture is how I found it. I have never restored anything like this so reading and learning has been the focus. Being small makes it easy. A redo is not a big deal. Some may question why I did things a certain way but its all part of learning. My goal is to restore to as original as I can get with a few up grades and have some fun. Toughest part will be outfitting the HEMI on the back.
Mini transom rotted, mini stringers rotted, crack in bottom, holes punctured transom where motor mounts. Original seat vinyl cracked and rotted. I have to learn to fiberglass, sew, gel coat and everything in between
1960's 8 Foot Columbian Fury
I put the boat in my basement. Yup, right down the bulk head. Son helped for this. Sanded whole bottom with 220 grit and fixed this crack with some fiberglass matt and body filler for smoothness Inside the boat was backed with 1708 fiberglass. I used the West epoxy resin and catalyst. Stuff is a mess. Make sure your protected with mask, glasses and full body armor.
Gel coated bottom. Tip and Roll failed, too many deep lines to sand. I used small foam roller from Home Depot that worked the best. Smoother you get it on there the less sanding. I did four coats. I bought some thinner but too scared to mess it up so I did not use it. Looking back I think it would have made it even smoother. Spraying is the way to go ...but i had no sprayer.
Transom fully rotted. replaced with thicker 3/4" marine grade ply. Used two layers of 1708 fiberglass for layering and same resin system. I also did some smaller sections with a third layer. "Peanut Butter" paste resin for filling gaps and smoothing edges. Had to make it strong to hold the HEMI motor.
Controls were sanded down and sprayed with Rustoleum Enamel 3 coats primer, 3 base and three clear. For the handles I used automotive interior spray paint. This was for durability and ensuring it would adhere to plastic well. The red was also used to spray my rub rail. Rub rail was sanded with 400 grit then cleaned with Toluene. The toluene gets is nice and rubbery for paint adhesion. Came out real good. You may ask why spray paint. Well, replacing it would be a big undertaking and expense. This boat will not be used much.
The motor lid was sanded with a sanding dremmel tool. Paint stripper was not an option as i did not want it to eat the fiber glass.A heavy grit paper ate the old paint up, however be careful as the the heavy grit will leave some swirls. When painting it will magnify. Used automotive Rustoleum spray primer, white enamel and clear. Three coats of each. Automotive for the outdoor type toughness..I guess.
Finally have the boat out of the basement and in garage. The top of the boat is the original gel coat. I pressure washed it originally and used some ON-Off to eat some of dirt grime out. Then wet sanded. I used 220 then 400 to 600 to 1000 then compound buffer machine. If I did it again I would not use 220. Left scratches that were harder to get out than it should have been. I would start with 400 and use a couple of times then move on to the finer grit.
I also put on the red racing stripe. This is a transfer stripe that basically goes on in one piece. Make sure your surface is real clean as dirt makes tents and when its on its on. For curved surfaces like behind the seat it was easier to cut the stripe. So, I put the middle of the stripe on first. Then the two little ones on each side ensuring to measure the space. Trying in one piece, with the curve, will cause it to crease and is real tough to apply, even with a heat gun. Patience.
I thought I would never see another one of these. The only pictures I can find are my own.
Two years later I stumble across another one left behind. Owner had it for 20 years and was kept it in box truck.
Great guy. Not sure why I took it. My first one just sits there. Round two.