TOPIC: Hull seperation?

What is the best way to seperate a small glass hull made in the late 70s?

From what? (just kidding)

Give some more details on what you are trying to do

When you say "separate a hull", I assume that you are referring to removing the deck from the hull??
There are two basic construction methods used to attach the decks, and a few variations of each. (shoebox method and flange method)

By removing the aluminum rub rails, you will see which attachment method was used, and be able to determine your next step.

There is a handy book available, "Runabout Renovation", written by Jim Anderson.
It has basic information for each aspect of fiberglass boat construction and restoration.
I got my from the local Tap Plastics store, but I'd imagine that it's readily available.
If that was not your question, try again.

Mike

I have a ski-horse, an early pwc that takes an outboard.
I assume it has the old flotation that absorbs water.
It's about 350 lbs. was close to 400 and it's suppossed to be about 200.
I was told it should be seperated to remove and replace flotation.
I removed the rivets and only the rubber trim came off.
It appears to be glued or glassed together.
Thanks for all your info.

I'm hoping to assume that you are in the KCMO area judging by your name... Most of the decks are either screwed together, glued together, or both. Some manufactuers use fiberglass tabs that you will have to cut through. I'm in South KCMO near Waldo if you do indeed live in the area... Shoot me some mail if you are close by.

Eric, i live in Kingsville Mo 64061, not to far.
This little boat i have appears to be glued or glassed.
I wondered if there was a trick to getting it apart before i get out the sawzall. My email is(This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.)
Richard

Richard,
It depends on what type of deck/hull joint your Ski Horse has. If you could post a pic of the seam it would greatly help in determining what you need to do. If you have a flange joint (basically the deck uas a lip that turns outward a bit and the hull has a lip that turns outward a bit) then you can take a sawzall and cut it between the two halves and you're good to go.

But if yours has a shoebox type setup where the deck actually slips down over the outside hull by an inch or two, you'll have to get inside the boat and carefully cut the glass "tape" that was applied at the factory along the seam. Then the top half will slip up off of the lower hull.

I've included a couple of pics. 1st pic is of a flange type joint, the 2nd of a shoebox type joint. On the 2nd pic the rear section of the deck has been cut off, but you can still see the joint overlap. If you have a flange type joint and you just stick a sawzall there and slice it open, you will end up cutting part of the lower hull off. Then you will hav to glass in a section all the way around the top of the hull to get the correct hull height before you can install the deck.


Flange Joint


Shoebox Joint

Classicfins, it's a flange type. What type of blade do you use in your sawzall?
Richard

Richard,

You need to pick this one up too!

kansascity.craigslist.org/boa/1771780823.html

Thanks, the 1 have was a gift , do have several old outboard motors.
I certainly can find a spot for it.
My problem is funds , if you know what i mean...

RichardKCMo wrote:

Classicfins, it's a flange type. What type of blade do you use in your sawzall?
Richard

I always use what ever blade is in the saw already. LOL The finer tooth blades are better as they don't rip the glass like a course tooth blade.

I'm good to go, i picked up a 14 and a 24 tooth to the in.Will let you know how it goes.
Richard