TOPIC: Glasspar Seafair Sedan

Hello, just picked up a glasspar seafair sedan for 500... the only thing stopping me from heading over to Catalina is the deck...completely rotten. I got the boat in about 80% restored condition. new hull and trim paint new glass for the windshields, 70hp johnson or evinrude?? runs great with a new impeller. I'm going to pull the deck and reinstall the stringers and deck with coosa board and 3lb flotation foam inbetween stringers all will be epoxyed and glassed down and the deck will be sealed water tight. This is my plan unless anyone has a different idea? I never want to do this again and I never want to worry about rot. I plan on keeping this forever because its a classic and it was only 500 bucks boat, outboard, trailer and all. I am willing to drop the money if this will be a strong and permanent solution to the rot problem. plus coming in at only 18 feet... I think the foam will give me a peace of mind while treking to the island. I am new to boat restoration/construction and any help is great help. thanks

Some folks here are not too crazy about the foam thing. I just did my Sabre Craft and if I had it to do over I would have made sure the bilge has drain paths to an area where it can be drained - rather than sealing the floor completely. They say that there is always some leakage into the bilge. Also consider at least venting it. I still like the foam for safety and a more solid ride, but there are pros an cons to it.

Good luck with the project,
Bill

Hey Bill thanks for the reply. You bring up a good point about water leakage. Is this concern for a completely flat deck or with a rear bilge area directly under the outboard as well? Are you experiencing water gathering in places with the sealed deck on your restore?

Modeling this layout but with Coosa board instead of glass over ply

Rather long discussion on this so rather than repeat it here I'll suggest you look at this thread where they gave me advice a few months ago (see link below). It was very helpful. So far as how mine is doing I can't say as I just got in the water so I don't have enough experience with it. But, if it leaks, there are areas where I am pretty sure water will be trapped. It was already done and closed up when I asked for advice on venting. What I should have done was ask for advice earlier on the draining (limber holes). I have a smalll bilge area at the transom but did not allow for drainage to it. My thinking was that it is totally sealed so I would not need the drains. I didn't get much agreement on that from more experienced boaters here on the forum.

titled - Advice needed on venting sealed bilge

www.fiberglassics.com/fiberglassics-forums/home/main-forum/advice-needed-on-venting-sealed-bilge

Welcome aboard Jon, glad to have you join us. Share some pics of your Seafair when you get a chance, those are sweet ole cruisers IMHO. Lots of great folks willing to help with advise here, don't be afraid to ask when you have questions.

To drain or not to drain is one of those subjects that brings differing opinions from lots of folks, just like using foam (and what type) under the floor, which resin is best to use, which oil to run, etc... Eicoguy's thread has a pretty good sampling of opinions and explanations.

Personally, I opted to put drains in my rebuild - but made them more efficient that the factory originally designed. (Glastron was notorious for putting the drain holes too high, allowing water to pool in the bilge anyway!) Haven't needed the drains yet, seems to be a water tight hull so far. It does allow venting of the area, so I have my fingers crossed that I made the right call. Everybody has their own opinion and preference, you just have to read up on it and make your own decision(s).

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!

Thanks Bill for the link and thank you Marks for the warm welcome. So going by the link Bill shared, the major concern is fuel and fuel vapors? I understand that in a I/O and religiously check my blower on my bayliner 175...but on a outboard? I will have the battery and the gas tank both under the splash guard so I guess the fiberglass splash guard might catch and hold some vapors which could be pretty bad...I don't think ill seal that up but I think I am going forward with sealing the deck just because of the coosa board material I am using which will allow for more room for error since its already fiberglassed. I think I might use some 3m 5200 to glue the seats down and that way ill never have to screws in my deck. I just took out the rotten deck and stringers...I think ill do the transom as well. I noticed my hull was pretty soft after I took the strangers out a noticeable about of movement and flex... is it supposed to do that? its got me pretty worried now. Ill get some pics up by the end of the week. Another question, The stringers go under the cab... do I just work with what is showing after the cab or for I have to remove the cab to get under there?

That thread did kind of go off on the fuel vapor issue, but I don't think that was the main point. Don't let that distract you from the water intrusion and venting issues. They still need to be addressed irrespective of the fuel issue.

I wish I had made drain paths with limber holes right back to the small bilge well at the transom. Then, if any water ever does get in, it has a way out. And, I would know about it by seeing water in the well. Now the only way I will know if the bilge is wet, and the foam soaked, is if the boat seems to get heavy. Not ideal.

I just hit something underwater this afternoon that damaged the prop. I'll check the hull real good for a break in the gell coat that could allow water in, but there might be a spot under the trailer bunk that I miss.. As I said, I wish I had done it differently. Just hope
to help you think of the consequences of the 'sealed' concept. I'm sure it can be done successfully several different ways - each with good points and bad.

Enjoy the restoration,
Bill

I guess I have a few things to think about. Im almost wondering if I can cover or bag the foam in some sort of plastic and include the drains and the foam. Ill look into it. Thank you guys for your help!

That thread did kind of go off on the fuel vapor issue, but I don't think that was the main point. Don't let that distract you from the water intrusion and venting issues. They still need to be addressed irrespective of the fuel issue.

I wish I had made drain paths with limber holes right back to the small bilge well at the transom. Then, if any water ever does get in, it has a way out. And, I would know about it by seeing water in the well. Now the only way I will know if the bilge is wet, and the foam soaked, is if the boat seems to get heavy. Not ideal.

I just hit something underwater this afternoon that damaged the prop. I'll check the hull real good for a break in the gell coat that could allow water in, but there might be a spot under the trailer bunk that I miss.. As I said, I wish I had done it differently. Just hope
to help you think of the consequences of the 'sealed' concept. I'm sure it can be done successfully several different ways - each with good points and bad.

Enjoy the restoration,
Bill

Oops, double post - sorry - touch screen is touchy