TOPIC: Lower Oil type ??

Sorry,,I`m sure this has been asked wat too many times..
1st time getting my boat out from the winter ,and not sure
what type of oil to fill my lower with /
its a 1960 Evinrude 75hp StarFlite.
and also how much will hold ?
And I know you fill from the bottom up,,Why ??
It seems easier to fill from top , like a manual tranny or differential ??
I also forgot the fuel mix for that motor..
I know it was along winter ...but DANG I should has taken notes !!!
Thanks.
Robert H

I'd use the modern Lower end oils they now have. You fill from the bottom because it pushes the air out of the gearcase where as putting it in from the top captures the air inside making a possible low oil condition. I think your mix is 50-1 but I'd rather you seek someone who is 100% sure. I have pre 1960 outboards and I think it is 35-1. A question never gets asked too many times. Better to ask than screw up I say.

The LU only requires SAE 80/90 hypoid oil, no use wasting money buying the marine version. The correct mix for that motor is 24:1 use standard TCW3 available at Walmart and ethanol free gas if you can get it. My 1961 is happy running on what I have recommended!
Al

Just to provide the alternative viewpoint, (there's a little voice in the back of my head saying "no Mark, don't get this discussion/argument started!")

I mean no disrespect Al, just exploring other ideas!

There are those who believe that the name brand (Mercury, BRP, etc.) gear oils contain additives that help protect the bearings and gears in case of water intrusion. I'm no chemist or engineer, and have no idea if there's any truth to that or not. A highly respected personal marine advisor made the statement, so I do use the marine version. It is certainly more expensive than the standard gear lube, but it only gets changed once a year so the increased expense is minimal.

The exception to the gear lube is the electric shift models, which MUST have Type-C lube or they will not operate properly.

Although I'm not familiar with your model FANTM, most of the '70's OMC V4 motors I am familiar with take just over a quart, one bottle isn't quite enough. The little pump you can get for less than $10 is well worth the investment IMHO, makes the job much easier and less messy!

A similar discussion can be made for the two stroke mixing oil on what to use, there are both schools of thought there as well. I think the most important thing is to mix it precisely, variations in the ratio can make a big difference in how well the motor runs and probably how long she lasts.

Happy Boating to all!

I'm not using two stroke now but when I was running my old Merc I was using the newer low ash two cycle oils and never had a problem. I used it in my Yamaha two cycle too and it cut down on smoke considerably. Yes it had cost more but It seemed OK. I'm switching back to a two cycle on the boat as soon as I can finish my 35 hp Golden Jubilee. I ran into some money problems before winter ended.Now I'm trying to finish the 59 Winner in the summer months. I have no garage and a small budget. The only outboard I've used in years now is a 4 stroke Honda. It has done well and defiantly easy on gas but has given me headaches with ethanol based gas.

On the ratio, I totally agree with Al. 24:1 on OMC prior to 1963, which is one bottle per 6 Gal of Gas.

Thanks guys , I knew I could count on you !!

With no disrespect to the others here - the engine must not be run on anything but TC-W3 oil at 50 to 1. The 24:1 ratio was in effect back when people were using 30wt non detergent motor oil. OMC began advising all owners of V4 engines to burn 50:1 when the first modern 2 cycle oils became available in 1964. nearly 50 years later, For what ever reason, lots of people just cant accept that 50:1 is the correct ratio for that motor. OMC service manuals had a giant notice of the new ratio printed on the inside of the front cover to pound the idea into the heads of servicemen. The engines built after 1964 use all the same bearings, chrome plated crankshaft, piston tolerances, rings, reeds, carb, as your engine. Your engine is all ball and needle bearing construction. All V4s built from the 1st model in 1958 are built this way. To run a mixture more rich than 50:1 will actually hurt your engine. It will make carbon build in the exhaust ports, it will coke the piston walls & rings, eventually jacking the rings into the cylinder wall and scoring it. It will also make horrible clouds of blue smoke, angering other boaters and embarrassing you. After a day of boating, these engines will drip and ooze unburnt 2 cycle oil out of the exhaust outlet & weep holes in the lower unit. It's pretty bad at 50:1 - I can guess how bad it is at 24:1. (tip) put a rag under the lower unit if you park it in your drive way, or it WILL make a mess.

The mechanical shift lower unit uses standard Hypoid 85/90 Wt lube. If you want to buy fancy oil, you can - but it really isn't needed. If the oil gets milky shake looking - water is getting in & the case needs to be resealed.

I hope this helps -

Good to know Bruce. I've been running 24:1 since I got the boat back in the water 3 years ago, but I always put a half a bottle of Seafoam in each tank to help against the carbon build up. I was afraid the 50:1 would be way to lean for the old motors.

Bob