TOPIC: Hauling a boat long distance, wheel bearing advice

I'm hauling a boat that I just bought long distance and need wheel bearing advice. I'm hoping someone will be able to ID the trailer and know what size wheel bearing I should buy before I leave. It's a very long trip. Any special tools I would need, grease type, cotter key size, wrench size and any other general advice would be greatly appreciated along with tips on pitfalls to avoid when high speed towing. The boat weighs about 750 lbs.

Thanks,

Dan

My attachments must have been too big.

Rear view:

Depending on your resources, you may be better off borrowing/renting/buying a modern flatbed or boat trailer to load the boat on for the return trip.

Might be advantageous to have a known entity rather than an unknown 50-yr old trailer needing a full rebuild. Plus the advantage having modern amenities like trailer brakes/ better hitch / working lights, etc. Start pricing out a new/used trailer or rental versus new tires, shocks, bearings, light kit, and wear and tear on your nerves.

And of course there are always shipping companies or Uship.com

Thanks HandyAndy.

I've looked into shipping and the cost was in the 5k$ range but I didn't look much further.

As this boat only weighs 750lbs. I'm pretty sure it poses no problems as far as brakes are concerned behind my 96 3/4 ton 4x4.

I've got six spare tires and wheels. My main concern is about replacing the bearings right after I pick it up.

You make a great point about other possible trailer concerns. I do have an accessory set of tail lights on a long wire so if the trailer lights don't work I can use them, it's what they are designed for.

I just found out it is an Aluma Craft trailer.

The one and only time I pulled a boat that had been sitting for a while I thought I could get by because it was only 63 miles from home.

I pull the bearings , cleaned them and repacked them. Checked the air pressure on the tires hung my magnet towing lights on to the trailed and off the road I went.

Went across the RR and the right side fell lower and smoke went every where. I broke a spring.

Jacked it up blocked it with a 4 X 4 and pulled it down with a come along.

pulled into the subdivision and the trailer started to pull with the back end swinging over the line and low on the left side.

Lost the u bolts that tie the axle to the springs. Parked it and went and got a chain hoist and another come along.

Got it home and made a promise.....never again less it is less then 2 miles


You cannot see it for the air compressor is blocking it however I have a reviver with a ball mounted on the front of the trailer...that way I only have to tie the back down

I also have a winch that slides into the reviver as to pull the boat (or any other trailers) on to the flatbed I made some long cables as to run to the car/truck battery so I can use most an ones

Now that is some bad karma!

Sorry to hear of your misfortune.

Were you able to fix the trailer or did you junk it?

Got it home bought new springs, replaces all the bushings and bolts(some were worn near 1/2 through). Replace the bunks and rollers. I hate the screw type ball hitch so I changed it install a new jack spare tire rack and spare tire

It is now sitting under the boat that I sold to another AOMCI member without a motor...the boat (and trailer) was not made in Texas, it was just a junky old Fethercraft Rocket.

TallTexan wrote:

Got it home bought new springs, replaces all the bushings and bolts(some were worn near 1/2 through). Replace the bunks and rollers. I hate the screw type ball hitch so I changed it install a new jack spare tire rack and spare tire

It is now sitting under the boat that I sold to another AOMCI member without a motor...the boat (and trailer) was not made in Texas, it was just a junky old Fethercraft Rocket.

Have you peddled many 'junky' boats to AOMCI members?


Any idea what bearings my Aluma Craft trailer has so I can pick some up on the way out?

I bought it for the motor. I sold the boat and trailer for $250. Could gotten more for the boat at the junk dealer.

I really do not want anything to do with Feathercraft boats Their bunch on their forum are ......leave well enough along..but put it this way. Their hardware melts down good to cast parts for other boats.

Why change the bearings???

take a jack and a 4 way lug wrench; by some wheel bearing grease, cotter pins, and some kerosene and if you really want a packing kit, .

Pull the bearings wash them check for pits, rust etc. repack the bearings and get on your way.

www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Bearing-packer/_/N-2613?itemIdentifier=900799_0_0_

unless the trailer been where it get water in it often the bearings should be good....the grease may be dry

A trailer of unknown condition even with new bearings tires and new wiring before you tow with it remember one thing. A friend I had once took a boat trailer and converted it to a small 4X8 trailer to haul for his business. New tires and rims ,bearings and new lights and wiring. He loaded it with scrap lumber and 1/2 mile down the road the frame broke where the tongue was welded due to rust inside -out. He fixed it but if you are far from home that could be a little inconvenient.

Had some challenging circumstances myself with older trailers far from home - as mentioned above, a known trailer will do a lot for your nerves - nothing like spending a loooong trip with one eye in the rear view mirror just waiting for that puff of smoke or shower of sparks. Don't know what your time frame's like, but you may want to do a search on the former site owner's (senior moment here) "Gurney" - a cut down trailer he used for retrievals.

Dan - where do you live?


That's a really neat Alumacraft - if it hadn't been 2400 miles away I would have been sorely tempted. I'm in the middle of a Queen Merrie project, but I love the way the back of the Cruiseabout looks like a Merrie M on steroids.

Most likely your bearing will be a standard size. It kind of looks like a Tee Nee. But with the case of my Electra trailer. The wheels on the tire/wheel combination you can buy at Walmart or tractor supply will not fit my hubs. The hubs are too small. And another thing. Do not count on your bearings to be standard. When I replaced the Electra bearings it took over a week and ordering from two part stores and cross referencing numbers. What a pain in the ass that was. And the hub kits from standard sizes will not fit it. I take very good care of these ones and I kept all the box's with their numbers. Seals also. I still don't trust that trailer after about 15 years. It is a cheaply built thin square tube wall thing. I could pic it up by myself years ago when the boat was off.

Thanks for all of the tips guys. I won't be around for a while and will report how the trip goes.

Our sad old trailer towing story started in N. Michigan, where we had gone to pick up a boat. It was freezing cold, heavy snow was falling, so we took the seller's word for it that the bearings were in great shape, and he had just repacked them (we had bought new tires). Big mistake. We made it close to 800 miles on our way back, but apparently a bearing froze up. The wheel and tire spun off the axle, and the axle hit hard enough to bend it. We ended up leaving the boat and trailer with a friend to dispose of, as it was not worth fixing and coming back for. The good news is, we had already taken the motor off of it, which is why we bought it in the first place.

Now, a couple of thoughts re your situation. First, if you chose to ship it commercially, it shouldn't cost more than $1,000, probably less. Second, if you have access to a solid flat bed, obviously that would be a good way to go. Third, rather than struggle with replacing bearings, if you can find loaded hubs that would fix your axles at Northern Tool or somewhere like that, you could buy new hubs with new bearings, seals, and get some new tires and wheels, which would probably not cost much more than hassling with buying new bearings, and is certainly easier than repacking the old ones. Of course, you would want to look the trailer over carefully and hopefully determine that it was structurally sound, but if you can do all of that I think you would likely make it with no problems.

Shannon in Crystal River

VintageALboatFan wrote:

I'm hauling a boat that I just bought long distance and need wheel bearing advice. I'm hoping someone will be able to ID the trailer and know what size wheel bearing I should buy before I leave. It's a very long trip. Any special tools I would need, grease type, cotter key size, wrench size and any other general advice would be greatly appreciated along with tips on pitfalls to avoid when high speed towing. The boat weighs about 750 lbs.

Thanks,

Dan

---

Dan:

Like many of the other members here, we bought a 1960 Glasspar Seafair Sedan about two years ago that also had a very old trailer under it. Specifically, the trailer was a 1959 "Sentinel" with similar coil springs as yours has.

We live in eastern N.C. and had to go near Traverse City, Michigan
to pick up the boat. I asked the owner if he were towing the rig from Mich. to N.C. would he trust the trailer and he said; "NO!"
This trailer had the older style 10-12" trailer tires and I have had ALOT of trouble with them. So,....we decided to tow our 24'
"Kaufman" Flatbed from N.C. to Mich (and back) to get the boat and I am glad I did after seeing the trailer.

I had also contemplated keeping the old trailer, but issues getting the right bearings, those little tires and our desire to travel with the boat convinced me to buy a newer aluminum trailer.

Here is a picture of us towing our "new to us" Seafair Sedan back from Mich. on our flatbed:

If you can move your trailer without damaging the axle, you should take it to a good mechanic.
Or, you might want to replace both axles. This is a place I've used: www.easternmarine.com/em_store/axles/
If you can properly identify the Bearings and Races in your two axles they might be able to supply replacements. However, the axle spindles Must be in good shape and should be inspected before you get new bearings etc.
To try and ID the Bearings. Jack up a wheel, remove the tire & rim, then remove the cup on the hub, you may need to tap it on it's side while rotating the hub. This should "walk" the cup off the hub. Take out the cotter pin & remove the retaining nut, it should NOT be tight. Remove the hub & take the inner & outer bearings out, clean them, then you should be able to get a number off them. The races are press fit in the hub & may also be held in place by a retaining ring. They should be removed & replaced by a mechanic.
The bearings & Races are probably available at your local auto supply store. They are a pair, replace them both on all the wheels. From your pictures you might have two different axles so you might then have different bearings on each. Make sure you have the right bearings for each axle.
The new bearings need to be properly packed with grease before you install them. With the bearings off clean the axle spindle & ask your mechanic to come over and inspect it.
You should take your hubs, new Bearings & Races to your Mechanic to have him pack them. When mounting the hub make sure the retaining nut is neither loose nor too tight, just snug to prevent lateral movement of the hub.
If you do the work yourself, the 1st thing you should then do is take your rig to your mechanic & have him inspect it.

Thanks so much to everyone for all of the tips!

I just got back this evening.

Here's what I did:

Replaced all eight bearing and race sets. Replaced the 4 seals. I was able to get them from a local auto parts store for about $25 per hub. Packed with grease on reasembly.

Had welded the fitting that holds the swing arm from the front axle to the rear axle. It was on the verge of failing and would not have made the trip.

Inspected closely all 4 springs and mounting hardware and had the two rear springs off for the weld repair.

Checked every nut and bolt for integrity and tightness. In other words I had most of the trailer apart. The axles looked good.

Replace the (4) 4.80x8 tires, wheels and lug bolts with new 5.70x8 tires, wheels and lug bolts. The old lugs were for the older style wheel that has no chamfered hole or bolt. One of the wheels was the old type which may be original. At any rate, the old bolt wheel combination was not a tight fit. Real danger of failure here, IMO.

Inflated the 4 new tires to 40psi (rated 50psi max). Wondered about tire pressure when I was at 8,600 ft. altitude in the Rockies. What does 40psi go to at that altitude? I'm sure higher but am not going to spend the time at the moment to figure.

Kept speed on the return trip to 65mph and under with a few 70's but very few.

Had the exhaust system on my 96 Dodge 4x4 replaced with a 4 inch straight pipe system. Seemed to make a real difference. The welder I hooked up with did exhaust systems and I had wanted to make the change anyway so I did. Made a great friend and a real ally in my effort to make it home safely. He also loaned me a bearing packer.

Averaged about 21 mpg in the Dodge which is fantastic IMO, as I was over 80 mph on the way out for extended periods.

Got real lucky and made it the 2,400 miles home without incident!

Thanks for all of the great tips including those that said 'Don't even think about it!'.

Glad all went well and you looked that rig over good before pulling out.

I have to haul a 50's runnabout back and forth from FL to NC. By the time I figured the cost of axles,springs, tires, wheels, lights, and rollers on the trailer I had. It was only a few dollars more to buy a new trailer. Go ahead, bite the bullet and get something you know is reliable.
I have say that my family hauled a Cox camper loaded with camping gear a mini bike and a canoe all over the USA Canada and Mexico on 8" trailer tires and never had a problem with trailer bearings or tires. I have pic's of that trailer going though a tree in Cal. and Lake Louise Can. in the back ground. Anyone that tells you small tires can't take highway speeds, it's BS. Tire rubber is better today than is was in the 60-70's. When we stopped for fuel Pa would always get out and touch the wheels at the bearings befor he started pumping fuel.