TOPIC: What's your thoughts? ON 35 HP Lark

Any thoughts? Unknown condition he wants $150.00. I'm going to look at it this morning.

I would not buy that in unknown condition. Running I would give 300. Who knows if the ignition is fried, pistons rings are shot, water pump. If you are willing to chance all that go for it.

robert,thats a 1959 golden jubilee,i saw just the ignition plate with the gold meddalion, go for 200 bucks on ebay that might not be typical,but the badges and cowling are worth something.

I've got two '59 Larks, in great shape. If it comes with the electrical, controls, and dash plate, I'd be all over it- Those are the tough to find parts and worth, as John pointed out, BIG money. I have a couple of the plates, and they go for good money.

The motors themselves are great- tough little buggers. I've had a couple of different larks from different years, there were small changes between model years but the basic motors were very similar. I like the cowl on these, with the little fins... I bought them to put on my '59 Lake N Sea, it's a great match!

Like they said, its worth that in parts.

Really tough motors. Top of the line for its time.

robert_lorigan,

SO, did you buy it?

yours, satx

If that motor has good compression, get it some fire and gas and it will run, for sure!!! Very tough and dependable engines.

I had him pull the cord and it had spark, the fuel bowl was very clean and the outboard looks pretty well taken care of. It shifts smooth. The starter is fried. I picked it up for $100. I put her in a barrel and shot some starting fluid in it. On the second full it ran. Lots of smoke so it was winterized. Tomorrow I will see if she likes gas. I believe it is a 50-1 mix. Correct me if I'm wrong. I've not had a two stroke in years. The prop took a good hit. I have three Johnson props. I hope one will work. I hope my Johnson starter I have will work and maybe the tiller. I may hang it on the MFG and try it if it will. I thank all for your knowledge. It is hard for me to pull it but it did start easy with the rope.

robert_lorigan,

WELCOME to the BIG TWIN club. - you got a GREAT DEAL.= CONGRADS.
(fyi, my FAVORITE OB is the BT in any of its several forms.)

yours,satz

I believe the 59's used 24:1.

bob,great score,thats the same motor i have in the basement,i have to try to start it soon,john

Doug Reeve wrote:

I believe the 59's used 24:1.

Yep, 24:1 is correct.

wasn't that with 30 weight motor oil....wonder what that would be in 2 cycle oil??????????

redfishpirates,

that's 24 to 1 for 2-cycle oil.

yours, satx

redfishpirates,

that's 24 to 1 for 2-cycle oil.

yours, satx

Some pics. Starter is off. Any have any info from the numbers for me.

Looks like a great score- Price was right. Those starters are easy to come by and pretty cheap if you look around. Should be an easy fix- The tough part, compression and spark, sounds like it's already been covered!

-Andrew

The twin engines were the bread & butter of OMC. Simple, dependable, easy to work on. As for the oil ratio - I run mine at 40:1 . The 24:1 ratio was specified back when the only oil avaialble was 30 wt non detergent automotive oil. The OMC 30 - 40 twins had all needle bearings in the powerhead - clear back into the mid 1950s. Even the small end of the con rod has caged needle bearings. When OMC announced 50:1 oil in 1964-1965 they specified 50:1 for the Lark and seahorse 40. That engine used the same bearings type as your 35 had. People just love to drown these with oil, thinking that the extra oil is helping the old engine. All that extra oil makes them smoke horribly, and loads up the piston rings with carbon. When the rings get stuck, they get jacked into the cylinder wall and score the crap out of it. I know that to some, these are fighting words. But I have torn down a mountain of old outboards over the years, and I see more damage from stuck coaked-up piston rings than anything else. 40:1 is safe and this engine - but pleause use decent TWC3 oil.

Lastly - PLEASE do not use starting fluid in a 2 cycle engine. The stuff washes the oil film off the internal engine surfaces instantly. Not a good thing. Go to the market and get one of those plastic generic squirt bottles for ketchup or mustard. The kind that the burger joints use. Pour a little premix in that - squirt a little into the carb & presto.

Bruce Gerhard,

FWIW, i never tore down the engines that you have BUT i ran 50-1 in my 1959 Johnny (when i was commercial trotlining, to get through college), EVERY DAY for 7-8 hours (on an 18' "homebrew" cypress skiff) & it never missed a lick in 4.5 years.= i was running about 4 MILES of trotlines at the time.

IF i remember correctly i paid a HUNDRED BUCKS for the engine in 1966 - it never failed me a single time, so 50-1 must be FINE.

note: in 1969, when i graduated from college, gas was .44 a gallon & i was buying 10-15 bucks worth of cut bait a day & selling "single server" channel cat, dressed to order for .75-1.oo each or .70-.80 a pound for "steaks". = some days i sold 200.oo worth of fish & seldom less than 100.oo a day. = sure beat "pumping gas" or working on campus.

yours, satx

Not meaning to hijack the thread. But, I was told Amsoil Sabre 100:1 synthetic was the way to go. I contacted the Amsoil guys and they reccomend using 80:1 in my 1961 Royal Scott. I think 70:1 might be a good starting point. Any feedback?