TOPIC: Removing wheel from shaft

I have a steering wheel that I want to remove from the shaft. However, this sucker is on there good All of the retainers are removed and it should just slide off, but doesn't budge. Any thoughts? I don't want to do anything that would damage the wheel so I figured I'd ask before I get too extreme.

I believe PB BLaster is the best penetrating oil I've used Todd, sometimes repeated applications over several days will do the trick. If that doesn't do it, the Loc-Tite division has a new "freeze blast" (aerosol) that supposedly works well on freeing corroded parts. I know heat sometimes is NOT an option if you're trying to save the wheel. Can you support the wheel (maybe with a set of wooden blocks) and whack the end of the shaft with a hammer? (Be sure to put a nut on first if you're trying to save the shaft as well.) Some pics of what you're dealing with might help?

Here's what my neighbor did. (Your not gonna believe this). If the steering wheel is still on the boat and supported, this might work. As stated, put the retaing nut back on, not all the way, only flush. Use a good penetrant as suggested. Put your feet on the floor, braced well, and pull the wheel while wriggling it hard, back and forth, side to side, up and down. It should pop off.
Craig

There is no movement in the shaft when I whack it. Actually, the shaft is just slightly smaller than the holes in my Workmate, so I have a good base of support. Tried spraying some Teflon in, but that didn't do anything. My go the the store and see what I can find for penetrating oils.

BTW, the key is not turned

ya...that looks alot like the one that i ruined useing the brace and jerk method (works very well on wheels that are not 50+ yeaqrs old)....i would soak in pb blaster overnite, put some preasure on the back side of your wooden boards, put a nut on the shaft and smack it...john

Just to state the obvious - if you don't have to remove the shaft - leave it alone.

If removal is a must, flip the wheel over - shaft facing skyward. heat the upper 1/2 of the shaft shaft with a powerful propane or welding torch. The flame will be far enough from the wheel to not harm it. Get it good and hot - but don't get carried away, because the hard rubber wheel will melt if you get that shaft red hot. Then, with the torch shut off, (penetrating oil is highly flamable) saturate the shaft where it meets the hub of the wheel. The heat will help to draw the oil into the taper and the keyway. The heat will have expanded the shaft and the hub, allowing some movement. Flip the wheel over and drop the shaft back into the hole on your table/ bench. Place a large drift onto the steering shaft (with the steering wheel nut installed level with the top of the threads) Hit the end of the drift with a sharp hammer blow. Be sure to use a large enough hammer for the job. this should be ebough to pop it loose.

Is there any way to get a 2 jaw puller on it without busting the edges of the wheel?

I have a layer of PB on there now soaking in. I will put more on tomorrow morning, tomorrow evening and then again Saturday morning. Then I will pound on it to see if it loosened up. I am not going to do anything that could potentially damage the wheel. If it doesn't come off, I'll just wrap the shaft in painter's tape and do my finish work that way. When it is all back together, no one will notice that the hub area is not neat and clean (will be covered).

That being said, keep the suggestions coming.

That's the same wheel I have on my Glasspar... It came off after soaking for a VERY long time W/ PB blaster... I applied it a couple of times a day for about a week. It was VERY stuck, but after that, I gave it a quick tap and it popped right off.

I re-used it on a modern Teleflex helm unit- Works great, except the key on the shaft for the Teleflex helm is 180* off from what it should be- So when the helm is centered, the wheel is upside down! Oh well.

Andy,

That's kind of what I am doing. Soaking a couple of times per day. I'll try tapping on Sunday and just keep spaoking until it does come off.

I won't tell anyone about the wheel if you don't.

"I re-used it on a modern Teleflex helm unit- Works great, except the key on the shaft for the Teleflex helm is 180* off from what it should be- So when the helm is centered, the wheel is upside down! Oh well."

Andy - is the new Teleflex system a rack or rotary? The position of the wheel to the cable can be changed - you don't have to live with it upside down.................

Bruce- It's a rotary, but because of how the dash was built, It could only go in one way without making some major modifications to the underside- It had to do with where holes lined up. Believe me, I tried! It's not THAT much of a problem... You get used to it pretty quick

Your problem, about " removing wheel from shaft " I have learned a lot, about how to handle, my wheel removel. PB Blaster. slow but sure.
I am looking for a replacement wheel, that looks like a twisted rope, and is white in color. I have seen one about 7 yrs. ago on another 1965 Glasspar. My current wheel is starting to crack and needs replacement. Good speed and good boating .

Andy,

You should be able to put the shaft/wheel in any position you desire. It is trial and error. The spool inside the rotary helm has "teeth" inside a channel that holds the inner cable. This can be set mesh with the cable at any desired position ~ 360 degrees. Use the little pin that lockks the cable to the steering box to unlock the cable from it. Then turn the wheel to wind the cable out from the helm all the way. Then turn the wheel 180 degrees. Now re insert the cable end and thread it into the box by turning the wheel the other way. Keep doing this 'till the wheel gets to the correct position.