TOPIC: Removing the deck

I have to remove the deck from the Glastron in order to repair the transom. I have never done that before and would like some input from those who have. The archives had some info, but not a great deal. My plan is to remove the deck, repair the transom, roll the hull over and work on the bottom, refinish both pieces and then put them back together. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Will you be removing the Top Cap of the boat as well. Some people call this the Deck. Is this what you are referring too? Some call the Sole or Floor of the boat the Decke. Is this waht you are referring to? If it is in fact the "Floor" Sole of the the boat then Here's how I recommend doing it.
First take accurate measurements of the width of the soles at various locations so you can ensure the hull stays in the same configuration during your rebuild. This is especially important if you will be removing the top cap of the boat. Once you have recoreded these measurements, In the center of the Sole drill a 1" hole. Measure the thickness of the Sole. Using a circular saw set the depth of the blade to 1/16" greater than the thickness of the sole. Cut the sole around the edges of the hull as close as you can. Use a stud finder to attempt to determine the location of the stringers. Cut parallel to the stringers and you should be able to remove that section of the sole. Continue to make your cuts until the sole is completely removed. Hammer, Chisels and Pry Bars will be your other tools of choice. A 4 1/2" grinder with a rubber back-up pad and 36 grit sanding discs will also be of benefit to grind off the lip that is left on the sides of the hull. Make sure to core sample your stringers to ensure they are solid. If your transom is bad, there is a very good chance that the stringers have issues as well.

todd do you have pics,closeups too?john

I'm with john- Show us some photos of what you're dealing with first- And we can better guide you... I've got the photos, etc on my web page showing how I did it on my Glasspar...

I popped the top on a Glastron GT 160 once. It was rather easy, "shoebox" top. Removed the rubrail and trim pieces around the transom. Only had to cut the splashwell, sawsall with a 12" blade.

The light blue strip is the original color under the rub rail.

I'm talking the "cap", nit the floor. Good description on how to remove a floor, however.

This is not something that is going to happen next week (too many other pre-cold weather projects). I'm preparing for the future. I am going to take the trailer (with boat on it) up to get registered Wednesday, so if I don't get pictures before then. I did a couple of quick ones. I tries turning the screws on the rubrail; they turned, but acted more like bolts (turned, but didn't unscrew)

Under Fin

its hard to tell with the rubrail track on,but it "looks" like a shoe box joint,i hhave never worked on a glastron,so thats just a guess.
it looks like you have a 2 man job taking off th track for the rubrail,one inside and one outside,after all the bolts are out and you have as much fiberglass cloth cut (try the multitool with the scraper blade 1st to get under it)then try to see if it will lift off any at all,you will probably have the steering pulleys to take off.
it has been my experiance that alot of boat makers put the pulleys were the joint is because its doubled there,im not sure about glastron,though,so keep the pics coming,so we know for sure what you are dealing with,john

It looks like this is a shoe box joint. I think maybe some of the bolts may be covered by a stray piece of fiberglass cloth with resin. That shroud could be cut off easily. I'm just concerned that they may have used steel nuts on stainless screws, so they may need to be cut off. I'll try to crawl in there this weekend and see what is really going on.

The front steering pulleys are attached right around the seam. The rear pulleys are attached to the transom.

Newsflash!!! Just got this pic from someone on the classic Glastron site. Shows the lap perfectly

That photo will make it a LOT easier to tell what's going on!!

Looks like you'll have to cut that area that's glassed- Something of a pain, but it COULD be worse- At least its not glassed all the way around!!

My Lake N Sea had bronze screws, with steel nuts, holding the rub rail on... And all the deck hardware was attached in the same way. Some of the nuts had rusted away years ago, but the vast majority of them had rusted and 'welded' themselves to the machine screws. I had to cut, grind, drill... It was not fun.

That cut in the fins looks like an excellent candidate for an Oscillating tool!!

-Andrew

Been there done that.
Have all the info & pics you need, just not the time to respond now. Give me a couple days.
Cheers
Bill

Bill, you're my hero.

Take you time. This isn't going to happen for a while, but I want to see what I am getting into.

Thought about my response above. I didn't mean to slight anyone else who has posted. If anyone felt that, I apologize. You all have given me great insight to and support for a process that I am more than a little nervous about. It's great having someone who has done this on a similar boat. That will be helpful for things specific to the boat but everyone who has done this has a lot more knowledge of the entire process than I. All thoughts and ideas are welcomed and appreciated. Hope this smooths out any unnecessary wake I may have created.

T

lol,todd im with ya,lol,bill has pics!no slight felt here.
thats why im following cals thread so close,besides the fact hes doing great at the restore,i have that to look forward to on my restore of the same kind of boats,john

OK I'm back, sorry business has been crazy lately.
Yes it is a shoe box. The rub rail is held on by bolts & nuts. They're brass & will come off easily, catch is they're behind the glass strip. I was able to pry of most of the glass, the rest I cut with a die grinder & wheel. Sorry, but it is glassed all the way around. The bow is a real challenge. Hope you a skinny guy like me!!
Once you have removed all the rub rail, lift the front of the deck as in the the last pic. The splash well, were the motor clamps on is glassed to the transom. With the deck raised you can chisel it free from the transom. I make it sound easy, but it's a bitch of a job. Before you remove the deck, put a straight edge on the deck, bow to center of windshield. It's probably sagged. If so, that's another topic.
When you have the deck off, let me know, I'll walk you through the transom.
Cheers
Bill

I'm real interested in the clamps you have on the transom. I have been planning to make some soon and would love to see more of them.

Are they homemade or bought? Would you have any pictures of them?

Thanks,
Gene

if they are homemade,its very ingenous,very smart idea to use car/motor home jacks,impressive,john

I fabricated them myself. $5 scrap yard car jacks & some square tube & flat bar Worked great
Cheers
Bill

You must have been talking to my wife about those clamps. She was trying to tell me how to make some last yr and I couldn't figure out why she kept saying to use a car jack to make them. She finnaly kinda drew one out for me and tonight I showed her your post and she said that they where just the same as she was trying to tell me about. I guess I should have listened to her then, the back of my head hurts now. I think i am gonna build afew of them now. Thanks, Skip.

Nice clamps!! I need to make some like that. While 2 x 4's have done the job in the past, those would make it EASY!

-Andrew

Those scissors jacks are handy and cheap.I use them in pairs to pull lower units apart with some 1/2" plate that I drilled for the purpose.They should be a part of everyones tool crib.
I see that you have found the Classic Glastron site,there is a lot of experience there for the asking as well.Good luck with it.Ron G