TOPIC: A call out to MadProps and John G and whoever else

Hi All, I'm trying to paint my wheel with poor success so far. I was told by the paint supplier that I could prep the bare aluminum wheel with acetone and paint polyuethane straight away. Didn't work. Poor adhesion. I'm back to bare aluminum and was then told by the paint supplier that I should prime with epoxy primer and then paint with polyurethane straight away. MadProps I believe you and I have the same wheel and you have recently painted yours. I don't want to use the same epoxy primer that I used on my trailer on my wheel because of the "gap filling qualities" of the primer. I don't want to lose the definition and clarity of the ribs on the top of the wheel. Is there an alternative primer and paint that will honor the ribs on the wheel? Sorry about the crummy picture. Thanks in advance.
Shipster

Zinc chromate in a spray can should do the trick. I saw it in Ace Hardware not long ago.

As Nautilus said .... any self-etching primer(found in any auto chain store and usually goes on green and drys really fast with no building properties) will work fine as a base for paint. I have used it many times on outboard restores.

Good luck

Tim

I would suggest powder coat. Its allot longer lasting and tougher than paint. When your talking about something that will have hands and hand oils on them you need tough.

Nautilis and barnfinder. I've used zink chromate primer on bare aluminum boats before painting and never had any flaking or peeling problems. I'll be doing the same to my wheel sometime this winter.

Hello I would use as stated zinc chromite or a gray scuff pad and aluma etch to prep your wheel Only problem with the zinc rattle cans is it is usally laquer based and can wrinkle or buble if shot over too soon or applied to thick, I would opt for aluma prep and a quick scuff This is what I have done to prep aluminum for a very long time and have had great results as it leaves an etch and a scuff, and also converts the alum. for direct paint app. cleans oil's etc... Kinda smells though LOL feel free to ask me about any paint/body related questions as I am a certified autobody tech:)

Damen Hill

oops.. forgot to mention if you use aluma prep DO NOT use a etching primer over it as it puts to much acid into the metal and will cause delamination.

sorry I couldnt answer till now I get locked out of the board a few times a week somehow, as the others suggested Zinc chromate for bare aluminum but I always chemical strip my parts with Aircraft Stripper/Remover to remove old paint to prevent the wrinkle finish talked about above

Hi Shipster,
I used a textured white powder coating on the wheel and mount, becuase of long-term durability, but the problem was that there was a minimum batch charge of $100 which made it kind of expensive.

One word of advice if you go this route, be sure that they dont get powder coating inside the mount where the plastic bushings seat... happened to me and the bushings didnt fit. It was a real bitch to scrape out.

Dean

sorry shipster,i wasnt on to answer your question ,but it looks like you have already got the right answers,these fellas are right in my opinion,self etching primer.
the only thing i do a little differnt is after i have the wheel sanded ,i clean it with rubbing alcohol,it evaporates away,,then primer and paint,
if you have problems send it to e,i will paint it for free ,i try to do that for every member of fg,im going to be doing one soon for a fellow fg member,john

Use the acetone to degrease. Then spray with a rattle can of acid etching primer. I get mine at NAPA. Paint as soon as primer is dry with your topcoat, and don't sand the primer.

Thanks All. I'll post pix when I'm ...hopefully done. I still have your sticker Dean. John, you're a good man. I'm gonna try this myself first.
Shipster

Be sure to wear a mask and do it in a well ventilated area when using zinc chromate or etching primer, Shipster. That stuff not only smells bad, but will do a nasty number on your lungs buddy, we want you to be safe! Good luck, you can do it.

(I'll get off the "safety soapbox" now guys, sorry.)

Hi Mark,

Please never apoligize for keeping people safe. I used to cringe whenever one of the safety gurus would start preaching when I was working on aircraft for the Marine Corps and the Army. While in Iraq, I contrated a virus that scarred my lungs badly and they now consider me as having COPD. Humid and very cold days make breathing a real hassle. (They're also looking at the possibility of having been exposed to chemical weapons vice the mystery virus according to my last pulmonologist appointment!)

I advocate everyone getting a good respirator and still using chemicals outside when possible to prevent having to go through the crap I do. Any body man or coal miner from days gone by can tell you how bad it can get.

Thanks, Mark for sounding the safety bell. We can all use a reminder form time to time. Have a great day.

mark I totally agree you can never can be to safe I used to be the same, no resperator when it was hot in the booth, but after I had two of my mentors be told that they could not paint anymore because of paint related toxin build up in the body it really woke me up...Always resperate!! or eventually the day may come when they tell you that you can't do what you love anymore.

P.S. Always be extra careful with any paint containing Isocyniates as these cemicals are not only absorbed through the lungs and skin but are actually asorbed fastest through the eye's so always try to aviod being in the spray fog for to long.

@ Dean -

How did you powdercoat the wheel without ruining the plastic ride guide badge????????


Bruce

Hi Bruce... Mine was all busted up... I found that Joe Poole has access to NOS emblems... so that is a brand new one in the photo. (I bought a spare too). He is on FG but can also be contacted through his website www.fergusonpoolemarine.com/

His profile: www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-profile/userprofile/312.html

Joe is a really smart and helpful guy, has been able to get all kinds of hard to get parts.

Dean

Well I think I'm finally done but not without incedent. I now have a whole new respect for you guys that paint these wheels all the time. Overspray, runs, scratches, you name it. It seems like a hundred different things that you have to look out for in order to do it right. The last thing that went wrong for me was I hung the wheel up face down to dry and some of the paint welled up around the emblem. When I went to pull the tape off it pulled up a tiny bit of the red with it. But like I say I think I'm finally done. Thanks for everyone's help.

Wow! Nice job!

Frank

shipster we all have some type of problem doing this stuff,especally the steering wheels when they need filler,everything is round,lol,so its almost all hand sanding,it looks great,you did very well.
im hoping i can get brian williams wheel started this week.
you did great,john