TOPIC: I have a stuck prop...

...and I can't remove it. Used Sea Foam penetrating lubricate for over a week, spraying once in the morning and again in the evening or everytime I go by it. Purchased a larger puller to accomadate the depth of the prop and still unable to budge. I have been researching online and some mentioned that the only way was to cut it off. They also mentioned heating up the splines on the prop but that risk damaging the seals in the lower unit. I asked a local outboard repair shop and they said that's the only way, to cut it off. Their turn around is 2 weeks; can't wait that long. I'd like to have this resolved before next week's 4 day GSG meet. BTW, it's a '83 Merc 50 hp and the prop is damaged. Purchased a new replacement.

My question to you, has anyone ever removed a stuck prop by cutting it off? If so, what is your advice on how to go about it. I've already removed two blades just to make room for my grinder using a metal cutting wheel but it's taking a very long time. Your help is appreciated. Thanks

Eduardo

Here's a good thread on that subject in the Merc Outpost forum, even has pics and advise from some of the best in the business!;
www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/17-mercury-outpost/24243-prop-removal.html#24243

Once you get the prop off the inner hub that is mounted in rubber you can carefully grind or slice it with a cut off tool. Once it is close to splitting tap it with a chisel or old screwdriver and it should open up. Carefully tap it off. Patience pays off.

Dremel tool with a fiberglass reinforced cutting wheel.

Stuck props on motors with splined shafts isn't that uncommon. Dissimilar metals like to do funny things when they're left to their own devices. When you install the new prop, be sure to liberally grease the splines!

Thanks guys, I'll give these ideas a try this weekend, well just Saturday. Sunday, Father's day is with family.

Mark, thanks for the heads up on the post. I was going to post this on the Mercury forum too. I like what the Doctor did. If I can do this without droping the lower unit, that would be best.

Robert, the hard part is getting the prop off the inner hub. If I can get that far, I'm golden.

Chinewalker, I have the RotoZip tool but not the Dremel. Got back from the Home Depot and they have more variety for the Dremel than the RotoZip. RotoZip does have the metal cutting wheel but it looks the same, thickness wise, than my metal cutting wheel on my grinder. Dremel has these 1 1/2 thin blades that I'm sure will cut into the aluminum prop better than what I have now, but I'm not going to buy the tool just for this.

I've owned this motor now for 6 years, and the last time I used it was 5 1/2 years ago. I never needed to replace the prop until now. My experience of trying to removed this stuck prop tells me the importance of greasing the splines.

Thanks guys
Eduardo

II prefer anti-seize compound myself.

...after several hours. Last weekend, decided to go at it. It was very frustrating at times and my patience was definitley tested. Spun prop was the reason why I wanted to removed this prop in the first place. I was wandering if it was actually that after torquing on the extra large puller that I recently bought. That prop whould not budge. I created three notches at the front of the prop blade to accept the puller. The top piece of the internal spline snapped while trying to remove the prop with the puller. That allowed me to drill out as much of the rubber hub and I was able to remove the prop all together. That of course after I had cut away two of the blades and spliced a couple of lines on the prop. Grinding off the blades took the most time. Now that the prop was off, it was time to attack the spline. I couldn't use the puller at this time because of the tapered washer between the spline and the lower unit. With my grinder and metal cutting blade, I cut along the spline making sure not to hit the prop shaft. Then I cut accross the spline creating little squares. I then chipped away one square at a time. 2/3 of chipping away, the spline finally removed. You can see the corrosion. I cleaned and greased the prop shaft and new prop installed. I tested the motor on the water the next morning and as far as the new prop and lower unit, it's working as it should.

If you haven't greased up your prop and prop shaft in a while, do so soon.

Eduardo

Glad to see it finally came off. I like regular anti-seize compound myself.

Eduardo wrote;

If you haven't greased up your prop and prop shaft in a while, do so soon.

Good advise for sure. For a "nickles worth" of grease (or anti-seize) and five minutes of someone's time, this could have been avoided. Like Robert said, glad you got her off my friend!

Two words, good buddy: "NEVER-SEIZE" Did you get the carbs problem resolved?

BG

Eduardo wrote:

If you haven't greased up your prop and prop shaft in a while, do so soon.

Eduardo

Actually, it's a good habit to remove the propeller after the end of every season to inspect the propshaft seal area for fishing line, weeds etc. that may damage the propshaft seal. Re-grease before reinstalling. I've got a tube of OMC/BRP Triple Guard Grease I keep onhand for that purpose... I've never used NevRSeize, but I'm sure it accomplishes the same purpose of keeping the prop and shaft from becoming one...

I think Never Seize is one of the containers I have of compound. I have three right now. One is copper colored, one is aluminum and one is black. Without looking I can't say for sure. It last a long time even underwater.

Thanks Robert. I need to get some of that stuff, Never Sieze. Before testing, I did grease it well.

Mark, like I mentioned before, I never needed to change the prop until now. I'll make sure that greasing the prop shaft and prop spline will be on my annual maintenance list. Thanks.

Bruce, I'll try the Sea Foam Marine motor treatment first. I heard good things about it so I bought a can today and ran the motor at idle for awhile. I'll take it out tomorrow after work before sundown for testing.

Good advice Chinewalker. I have two motors that fit the same props, so I'll have grease on hand for both glassics.

Eduardo