TOPIC: Chrysler Rebuild

Spent the day wiring relays. Only place I could find red, green and blue #14 was Home Depot.
TA-DAH!!! IT WORKS!!!
Thanks for all the info, advice and 'specially the pics. I would never have been able to wire those 5 pin thing-a-ma-bobs without the pics. I just followed colors. As I said before for some reason when I see "relay" my mind just turns to Jello(er) than normal. Mounting them inside the cowl made wiring so much easier, only wires I had to run were red, green and blue to the dash switch. That slave on the transom works great. The one pic of them mounted is before I tie-wrapped everything neatly.

Good work! You're gonna love having that extra switch at the stern, makes it very handy when you're working on things back there.

Looks good

Thanks Jim, as the song goes "get by with a little help from my friends". I used your finger picture more than anything else

Dropped the LU this morning and blew air through the lines, all clear and air came out the thermostat housing. Ran a spin test on the pump and got a small trickle that I could stop with my finger. Pulled the pump apart and there was a 1/2" gap broken out of the old gasket that I thought I could fill with gasket maker on the first impeller replacement. That does NOT work. Made a new gasket with material I have and spinning with my 'lectric drill I cannot stop the great flow with the finger, It spit back at me.
I took a video of the flow but unable to upload it here. Also plugged the feed pipe and poured white vinegar in the thermostat housing and let it soak for an hour, should loosen up any calcium. After it soaks now I;ll shove a hose up its butt just to double check nothing is remaining.
Nothing like reviving an old outboard,,...smells like.....victory!
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Spent the last few days working on seats. Time is limited with fall outside cleanup taking precedent before the freezing temps continue.

Finally finished the two front seats. It was a challenge with the swivel pedestals vs box seats. The original install was with small screws into rubber plugs with some type of anchor, they pulled right out and everything was rusty. I filled the old holes with silly cone and used wood anchors(?) with 3/8" bolts 8 each pedestal. They seem to be solid. I couldn't think of any other way since the floor is on solid foam with no way a butterfly would unfold. yes the foam is dry,

Seats look great!

If the silicon and anchors don't hold, you might consider enlarging your original holes and filling them with West System Six10 epoxy. Listed uses include 'structural gap filling'. Once cured, you can drill/tap for new screws. Should work well with the foam and may standup to the environment better than the wood anchors while also preventing future rot.

That's a great suggestion, never crossed my mind. Hope it never comes to that but that would be plan B.
The boat will always be stored indoors out of rain, snow etc. The anchors seem to be holding great now, I'm sitting on the seats while I construct framework for the rear seating arrangement.

Spent the past few days contemplating (?) the rear seat arrangement until my daughter suggested something completely off the wall. This small 16' boat has (had) absolutely no storage area at all, just four pedestal seats plopped front and back and closed bow. Function dictates form here. I needed to place 2 6 gallon gas tanks near the motor plus storage for life jackets, ropes, anchor etc. So she suggested a curvy back and it works with legroom to spare. The past week was all wood work, framing, figuring curves and materials. Upholstery, cushions and back rests are in the thinking stage.

A short note here. After restoring these classics for over 30+ years I accumulated a huge inventory of anchors, life jackets, ropes, you know the drill. When I decided to "retire" a few years ago I practically gave all the stuff away even all my motor manuals (See Jan, Nautilus). Now I'm searching marketplace for life jackets and an anchor which I did manage to find close by. Oh the irony.

Update on seats. Just have to paint the frames now and then the interior should just about be complete. A lot of cleaning and scrubbing to do and then start on the exterior cosmetics.

Motor question. Now that I finally have the tilt/trim working I'm finding that when I lower the motor all the way down it goes down slowly as it should but seems like the last inch or two it "slams" down really giving the transom a shock. I'm thinking the shock absorber is ka-poot. Can those be rebuilt, maybe new 0 rings or something. I see some on e-steal for around $300. ridiculous.
I've rebuilt trim cylinders for JonnyRudes but wondering if the shocks are the same. I've not taken it off yet to really see how weak it is. Other than putting a rubber bumper on the transom.

Yeah finally back on AGAIN!
Anyway she's looking GREAT! LOve the interior and layout. as far as the shock goes, I think theyr'e rebuildable but i haven't dealty with the Chryslers much, sorry.

Bob

Thanks Bob. Glad to see you back.

You might want to pull the shock and see how the compression and rebound feel. There may be issues other than a worn shock.

There's a bunch of used ones on eBay cheap, and some new ones, starting at $120.

Copy these search keywords and plug into the Search box:

(FA178962, 55FS631962, FS719962)

HTH...............ed

Thanks ed. I'm thinking it's maybe not the shock after all, there is still some air in the system. I'm having some issues with dripping from the hydraulic connections on the pump itself. I think I more than likely nicked the flared end of the pipes when trying to put everything back together. I've tried small 0 rings, Teflon thread seal but they keep dripping under pressure, not a squirt just a drip that almost turns into a small run both raising and lowering. Thinking of unscrewing the connections again and using maybe 6 or 800 grit to buff down the inside of the flair. Short of slathering JB on everything and then screwing back together
I finished up the helm area, laid down a foam pad to cover up all the holes the PO had in there for his finders, sonar, etc. I installed a small Hawkeye depth finder but didn't want to drill another hole in the dash so I made a bezel for it. Also finished putting the base coat of paint(s) on the motor cover. Still have some air brush work to do on it.

www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/172512803693&ved=2ahUKEwiis_nItrmRAxXu1fACHRpDAGEQFnoECEcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw18beURehPTd--SmYSt-qul

You need brass washers to "fix" worn flase fittings. I just grabbed this link as an example. I don't know what size(s) you need.

Thanks Jim. That never crossed my mind and I didn't know they were available. I'll see if I can source them locally at ACE, maybe in the small engine repair. They would be tiny. I'll have to mic the flair outside dia. Sure they work like a crush washer on a banjo bolt.

Fixed!...for now. searching for those brass/copper washers and came up blank for something that small. Short of going to a hydraulic shop, there are several in my area. For giggles I installed small 0 rings in the two connections that were dripping. The 0 rings are really tiny. I had two spare, they are the ones that go in the fuel fitting connectors of OMC tanks. They seemed to be the perfect fit. Snugged them up, did not overtighten. No leaks. Been two days now with the motor full up and holding.
Starting on cosmetic painting.

Have you checked McMaster Carr ? They have nearly everything ?

Not yet, putting on hold for now so far so good, Thanks for the info though.

Awesome Cal, fingers crossed that it stays that way.

Bob

More cosmetics. Painted over the plain jane gold strip with an airbrush highlighted accent stripe.