TOPIC: Foldout seat options for glasspar seafair sedan?

My 59 seafair sedan did not have the original seats in it.
I used what the previous owner had used which was just a simple bracket with a plywood base and a signal round metal table style leg. It worked fine functionally.

Since I’m re-doing a bunch of other stuff on the boat, I thought it would be good to take another look at this as well.

Has anyone found any replacement ideas for the folding seat component? What about legs?

I found these on Amazon- thought they looked interesting

Amarine Made 4Pcs Heavy Duty Polished Stainless Steel Folding Shelf Bench Table Folding Shelf or Bracket, Max Load: 550lb/330lb, Short/Long Release Arm (4Pcs: 550lb, Long Release Arm) www.amazon.com/dp/B082H9B538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VWGWS4ZSYYXW6X13DFWQ

NW Texan

On your hatch gasket the Wefco #1037 not close to the original.


I think they shorted you a layer of glass. The sides on my hatch appear thicker.


The original Seafair seating setup works well. Garelick once offered something similar.

www.fiberglassics.com/forum/main-forum/133052-glasspar-seafair-sedan-questions.html#143364

Terry

Terry,

Sorry for the lag! I was actually touring again for the first time in 2 years!

So here is where I am with it all. It looks like you have a vertical board connecting the 2 horizontal boards. I am thinking maybe i do something like that..I bought these folding aluminum brackets. Thinking 2 per seat and then 2 of the garelick folding seat legs.
Do you know how that vertical board is mounted? Also, any idea how high your seat is? I think mine was initially too tall. Around 31" at top of seat cusihion

Here is a pic with the seat with the leg the way I had it..Just propped up for now.

Terry,

One other quick question--
On your hatch, did you just put gasket on the lower part or did you put it on the hatch as well? I kind of like the look of the gasket only on the inner piece.
I'm also gonna have to alter the gasket on the aft part of the hatch opening as the lip is only about 1/2" tall and the gasket sits too high, making the hatch uneven.

Hey NW Texan,

I had some of the same questions as you with regard to the seating....here you go.
www.fiberglassics.com/forum/main-forum/133593-1959-glasspar-seafair-helm-chair-boards.html

Eric

That’s super helpful! Did you end up doing the same?
I am having to use different hardware, so my solution will be different regardless.
The one thing that jumps out to me is the board doesn’t seem to be “level” in relation to the gunnel, so would put the seats a bit askew to the deck. I’ve been visualizing this and had come up with a similar solution in my mind, but is still was a little lacking. With the brackets I have(they fold out to a 90 degree) I think the seats would slant in, unless I wad able to put some wood along the bottom board to space it out further

Nope, haven't even started the resto. Catch up on my journey under "member's projects" for an explanation.

I see, those hinges you bought seem to lock at a dead 90*. You could either space the board as you said to be level, or use different hinges...In your facebook Glasspar post on this subject the second picture has a plywood seat base with two aluminum hinges shown. You are in luck because I have four of those hinges free to you if you want them. I owe you one anyway for the transom piece you gave us!
If you really want to use your hinges though I get it...they look nice. in either case, the board simply helps establish a solid base and the correct seat height, as the gunwale mount seems too high to me.
Let me know on those hinges.
Eric

Eric,

Very kind of you! This my fave part of these forums; being able to help and be helped by folks on the same journey.
I have some mahogany that I'm gonna cut to length(seems about 14" long) and see how close to "level" the board sits. It would be cool and more stable to add the locking hinges, but will definitely reach out if that doesn't seem like it's gonna work.

Ian

eperot wrote: Nope, haven't even started the resto. Catch up on my journey under "member's projects" for an explanation.

I see, those hinges you bought seem to lock at a dead 90*. You could either space the board as you said to be level, or use different hinges...In your facebook Glasspar post on this subject the second picture has a plywood seat base with two aluminum hinges shown. You are in luck because I have four of those hinges free to you if you want them. I owe you one anyway for the transom piece you gave us!
If you really want to use your hinges though I get it...they look nice. in either case, the board simply helps establish a solid base and the correct seat height, as the gunwale mount seems too high to me.
Let me know on those hinges.
Eric

Eric,

Tried to send you a message, but a bit confused on how they deliver. Just checking here in case you responded.

Ian,
No, no message. I've never had any luck with FG and messaging. If you want to contact me directly my email is This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Thanks,
Eric