TOPIC: Where should I start

Just bought a 1959 Crosby Hurricane with thoughts of restoring it. I've done a few cars but never a boat. Currently reading a few books but wanted some real advice. Biggest issue - how do I know if the balsa needs to be replaced in the hull?

Hey Steve. LOL, First place you should start is HERE by uploading pictures that we all can see.
Cant wait to see some and watch your progress...
If the balsa is wet (saturated) it will need replacing (most likely) also how is the over all condition of the hull? Has it been stored in or out doors? Mike

Stored outside for a few years I imagine. Cleaning out the leaves and other good stuff was like an archeological dig! The hull is in good shape, gel coat is cracked a little, but no holes. If the balsa is bad and I dont replace it, she'll sink like a stone, right? I can see the construction is two pieces, held together by rivets. Perhaps separating the hull from the top and seat sections. Many more pics to follow.

Welcome aboard, KrazySteve. I believe Runabout Renovation is recommended reading on the subject around here, is that one of the books you're reading? While I haven't perused the pages of that "bible of boat rejuvenation" yet, I understand it's a basic primer for those delving into this hobby for the first time.

Mike (Bigfoot) is right, we're definitely picture people around here, can't wait to see some pics of your Crosby!

I can tell you this. I have good mechanical skills, and if you share this quality, that is where to start. Even if you have never tried what you are about to attempt, the desire and passion will guide you. You will succeed because you care more about how it turns out than anyone else will. Enjoy the project. Learn from the mistakes. Share your experiences.

Anyone have advice on how to remove fiberglass top piece from the hull? It had rivets, bolts and tape along the sides, but the back by the transom just seems completely one piece somehow near the corners above the handles. Its just plain stuck! I thought of using a rotozip but I dont want to inflict too much damage. Thanks in advance !!!!!

There are two types of boat construction, shoe box and lip. Shoe box the top fits over the hull like a shoe box top fits over the box. Lip type is two lips meeting together. I can't really tell what you have there, but there's always a chance the seam is glassed together inside. Pretty much whatever is done to remove the top can get "fixed" later. I assume you'll be painting the boat eventually?

Best of luck with it.

Frank

Thanks! This must be the shoebox style in the back because I can get a putty knife up between the two. Probably glassed inside so I'm not able to see the seam and lift it up.

I assumed I would repair any fiberglass and repaint after replacing the balsa core and transom.

Appreciate your help !

Use whatever means you have available to seperate the deck from the hull with as little damage as possible! I use all kinds of tools, everything from chisels, to crow bars to hammers to jig saws and sawsall depending on the circumstance. Any fiberglass damaged can be easily patched and repaired.

As far as the balsa core is concerned, you can take a core sample using a hole saw or rotozip to get past the inner layer of fiberglass to see if the wood is water logged. Sample in several areas, especially back by the transom.

On one Crestliner I removed all of the core from the bottom (and the transom from the inside, keeping exterior fiberglass intact). I cleaned the bottom, rough sanded it, had pre-fitted ply to the hull and cut it so it would follow the origonal balsa core as close as possible.

The ply was a 1/4 inch marine which was shaped and made sure it would bend enough to fit flush to the bottom (all a single sheet),

Then used layers of 1/4 marine plywood, one layer at a time. Each layer was shaped and curved to fit to the fiberglass hull. I used weights to help hold down the 1st layer to the hull, and always used a layer of cloth and epoxy between each layer.

So from the outside it was : origonal fiberglass, fiberglass cloth/epoxy, 1/4 inch marine ply, fiberglass cloth/epoxy, 1/4 inch marine ply, then a top layer of fiberglass cloth/epoxy. I don't recall if I used 2 or 3 layers of ply. I think 2.

Anyway the bottom was very strong. The transom was flat so I used 3/4 inch marine ply on it. The transom and the bottom all meet with plenty of fiberglass tape and epoxy.

I like epoxy for structural repairs and fiberglass for everything else.

Ken

hi steve,welcome to the wonderful world of fiberglass restoration,you have a big job ahead of you ,but if you listen to the great people on this site,it will be a wonderful experiance.
at times you will just want to quit,but the next day gets easier,and when your finished,it will mean the world to you,you will be proud of the job you did,this is a world of ups and downs ,but stick with it ,you will be glad you did.

i like to use a rotary tool,with a cut off wheel,for most of my fiberglass cutting,it takes longer but its more presice,use a flexable shaft and you can get it in most places.(ok i know theres a joke there,but i aint touching it.lol)
just take your time,it will be worth it.to pull apart the shoe box type ,i would use a heat gun ,but be carful not to melt anything,it should loosen things up a little,then use a putty knife to seperate it .if im wrong ,one of the more knowledable members will let you know for sure,but the biggest most important thing is have fun,we are here for you,there are alot of very great boat restorers here,so get to it and have a blast,and dont be afraid to ask questions if your i any doubt.have fun ,john

I'm not sure that's a Hurricane. Is it 16 or 14? Can you shoot a photo of the interior? Also, somethings been done to the top. The hardware is not original. Should be a bow handle not a cleat forward, and the light is not what Crosby used. Cleat was mounted center deck.

I'm going to try to use one of those Sonicrafter vibratory saws for slicing into fiberglass. I'm hoping it will be able make a controled cut without whipping up a tornado if itchy dust.

Good idea. I use a Fein Multimaster or the generic one from Harbor Freight Tools all of the time. They are great for removing bad balsa core also. It will be the start of many long, thanksless evenings! Good luck!