TOPIC: Proper Hardware Bedding

BRILLIANT!
This is going to be my Hardware Bedding bible for the Banshee rebuild

Matt

Another great contribution hopefully destined for the Research - Restoration pages, Thank you Jamil!

Amen. 3M 5200 is all I've ever used, with the exception of Sikaflex when I redid the white deck stripes on a Trojan Sea Queen. When I converted the Missile from inboard to outboard I used 2 tubes of 5200 bedding the transom completely in in it, then I went around the entire inside seam again with a large filet seam. I am happy to report that between the glass on the pywood seams and the 5200 in the new transom this wood boat has been at the dock now for a week and half and does not have a drop of water in it. First wood boat I've ever owned that this is the case. I also have been successful at removing 5200. I found out by accident that Interlux 333 brushing liquid is an effective 5200 solvent. You can clean up using it, and you can soften it if you need to remove it. Superb article.

Jamil; Once again I must commend you. I commented on your paint thread but feel the need to state that your comments here are right on the money. I don't post here very often so for those that do not know me I am 60 years old and have been in the marine industry in one form or another all my adult life. I owned a very busy boatyard in Florida for 20 years and have restored, refurbished, repaired, built, and run boats of all sizes in my career. I have also been an avid collector of all things vintage boating including fiberglassics. From My lifes experience it is easy for me to see that you Jamil, are indeed a professional and have had actual experience with the subject matter you are covering. Way too often hobbiest boaters get bad advice from everyone they ask and whats even more frustrating for those with real experience is that they get different advice from most everyone they ask. I hope this will help to let everyone know that here truely is a professional who really knows what he is talking about giving free advice to his fellow boaters not out of ego or to prove how much he knows but for the love of helping others. My hats off to you Jamil. Brian

+1

This article has been floating around for many years & is always a good read. One point that DIY boat repairs frequently mess up on is fastener selection. Boats should have either Stainless steel, brass, or bronze fasteners. Spending the extra money up front is well worth it. Secondly, most of the little boats we love were built very light & thin. If you can, beef up any section of deck that will have a cleat, mast light, whatever mounted on it. On the Skagit, I laid up eight, 5X8 inch layers of chop strand mat on the underside of the deck where the stearn light was to be mounted. I didn't want any flexing or cracked gelcoat. It just takes a few moments to do , but makes a big difference on how the boat will last. I have seen many vintage boats with the deck cleats torn out because the backing wasn't heavy enough.

I dont believe Bruce is making accusations of plagiarism

I feel confident in saying this godelescher, there are previous articles written on the subject, so if one extracts merely the facts of the articles they do sound similar in the content

unless ofcourse all the authors are incorrect in their theories, but then there would be NO similarities in your findings...this just means your opinions are on the right track...no harm, no fowl, no worries

Jamil,

I'm sorry that you took my comment that way - but I can understand this, as I sincerely thought I had seen this article on the web before. I had thought that you had found the article on line, and simply passing it along. That is frequently what many members here do, just to give a FYI to others. No jab against you was intended. Just so you know, there are many similar such essays available on the web - but I don't say this to dismiss your efforts here. So I'll say this - nice job.

Bruce

Great Job godelescher (Jamil) I need to go back and print up everything you have written so far and make a binder to keep it in. Pretty soon I will have a small booklet with a wealth of info that cant be bought. Your knowledge is deep and thankyou again for letting it be known. I want to learn all I can and am still young enough that I can restore old fiberglass boats for my next 30 years. I did restore one small runabout last year (my first one) and learned alot and got some basic hands on experiance. I am a finish carpenter and am good at what I do so hands on work is what I love to do. Although I am not a pro boat rebuilder I do tend to offer advice to newbies since I have some experiance and they dont even know there is wood in that hull. I hope to only offer sound advice but like most am still learning.
keep your awesome articles coming. I have to also add that you are one very smart Guy.
Mike B........ +1

EDIT: If it is possible could one write an article about boat restoration's on a budget??? For the cheap/poor boat builders.

In respect to recent developments, I have withdrawn this post. It was intended for anyone who wished to save the tutorial for their own personal use.

When I mounted my merc, I used 4200 for the lower motor clamp bolts and PT&T mounting bolts so I could easily remove the motor at season's end (or anytime I want). I have found hardware bedded in 5200 completely un-removable, so what would have been the alternative?

Gee, I hope my merc doesn't fall off...

Frank

I was joking about the transom rotting out as well.

I intend to remove my motor yearly, re-bedding it each spring. I'd just as soon keep it in a heated space over winter.

When I bedded my three hull drain tubes, I drilled 1 1/2" holes, stuffed them with chopped mat & resin (over a few applications), drilled 1" holes in the lower part of those circles, round sanded them till the tubes fit nicely, then used 5200 to bed them.

When I installed my tow rings I used 5200 to bed them, then couldn't remove them with a 10 lb. sledge. That is basically why I use 4200 on stuff I may or will want to remove.

Frank