TOPIC: CMC PT-130

Anyone have any knowledge/experience with this unit? I'm thinking it's a more cost effective alternative to rebuilding the original system I have in my boat.

www.iboats.com/Electric-Hydraulic-Power-Tilt-And-Trim-PT-130-with-Gauge-CMC/dm/cart_id.656198821--session_id.810644736--view_id.165183

I've done some "window shopping" on these units, and have heard nothing but good things about the CMC units. I believe that's a pretty darn good price on them too! (I have done a good bit of business with iBoats.com, no complaints whatsoever.)

MarkS wrote:

I've done some "window shopping" on these units, and have heard nothing but good things about the CMC units. I believe that's a pretty darn good price on them too! (I have done a good bit of business with iBoats.com, no complaints whatsoever.)

I've also used iboats for some of my purchases. My seats, especially. CMC doesn't really offer a good explanation as to how the motor mounts to the tilt unit, though. I'm hoping someone in here knows ...

CMC doesn't really offer a good explanation as to how the motor mounts to the tilt unit, though. I'm hoping someone in here knows ...

my buddy has one and he very happy with it,
clamp on motors require an adapter for the CMC units

CMC ad wrote:

# Standard B.I.A. Bolt Hole Pattern
# Convenient Adapter Kit Available for Clamp-on Motors
# Four Stainless Steel Motor Mounting Bolts Included

The unit bolts to your transom using the holes previously used to mount the motor, and the bolts that come with the kit. Then your motor bolts to the unit with the same bolts you were using before. (I may have the bolt thing backwards, but you get the idea.) I would imagine the clamp kit bolts to the unit, and allows the clamp style motors to clamp onto it.

PS - Wish I had $600 bucks right now to spend.......I'd be getting one today. You may want to check with Bill R or Joe P to see if they can meet or beat that deal first. Just a thought.....

I have sold & installed several of these sytems. The quality is good. If your engine uses the current standard large mounting pattern, then you won't need to drill any holes. If not, you will need to drill 4 new holes into the boat.

Where you may run into a problem is that because of the 6 inch setback, the steering cable needs to be able to line up with the new engine location. Some splash wells don't allow for this alignment.

Jim

jimandros wrote:

I have sold & installed several of these sytems. The quality is good. If your engine uses the current standard large mounting pattern, then you won't need to drill any holes. If not, you will need to drill 4 new holes into the boat.

Where you may run into a problem is that because of the 6 inch setback, the steering cable needs to be able to line up with the new engine location. Some splash wells don't allow for this alignment.

Jim

This is what I have for a splash well:



Think it might work?

I have a 1979 Mercury 115 hp

MarkS wrote:

CMC ad wrote:

# Standard B.I.A. Bolt Hole Pattern
# Convenient Adapter Kit Available for Clamp-on Motors
# Four Stainless Steel Motor Mounting Bolts Included

The unit bolts to your transom using the holes previously used to mount the motor, and the bolts that come with the kit. Then your motor bolts to the unit with the same bolts you were using before. (I may have the bolt thing backwards, but you get the idea.) I would imagine the clamp kit bolts to the unit, and allows the clamp style motors to clamp onto it.

PS - Wish I had $600 bucks right now to spend.......I'd be getting one today. You may want to check with Bill R or Joe P to see if they can meet or beat that deal first. Just a thought.....

Who are Bill R and Joe P?

1st) I don't believe that the old Mercs with the external trim system use the current large mounting pattern. So, you will need to drill holes in the transom. That is easiest done IF you have a drilling template.

2nd) You have the external steering system. Regardless of your steering system or tilt tube system, the cable will need to be relocated rearward maybe 6 inches to align. I don't see it working unless you cut a new exit thru the transom. If you take this approach, I would plan on going to a tilt tube system. That will most likely require a longer steering cable.

3rd) The new bolts the CMC comes with are shorter 1/2" dia bolts to bolt the engine to the trim system. So, you will need four 1/2" dia stainless bolts to bolt the CMC to the boat. If you motor is bolted on with these 4 bolts, you are in business as far as that goes. I am thinking your motor uses 3/8 dia bolts. So, you may have bolt issues too.

Bottom line, it won't be a 30 minute installation.

Jim

jimandros wrote:

1st) I don't believe that the old Mercs with the external trim system use the current large mounting pattern. So, you will need to drill holes in the transom. That is easiest done IF you have a drilling template.

2nd) You have the external steering system. Regardless of your steering system or tilt tube system, the cable will need to be relocated rearward maybe 6 inches to align. I don't see it working unless you cut a new exit thru the transom. If you take this approach, I would plan on going to a tilt tube system. That will most likely require a longer steering cable.

3rd) The new bolts the CMC comes with are shorter 1/2" dia bolts to bolt the engine to the trim system. So, you will need four 1/2" dia stainless bolts to bolt the CMC to the boat. If you motor is bolted on with these 4 bolts, you are in business as far as that goes. I am thinking your motor uses 3/8 dia bolts. So, you may have bolt issues too.

Bottom line, it won't be a 30 minute installation.

Jim

Great information, Jim. Much appreciated.

1) New transom going in, with lots of patching on the outer skin. No inner skin, as of yet. New holes can be relocated, where needed. Can get, or make a template for the new holes.

2) This can be done easily enough. I'm replacing the lounge style seating with pedestals up front. They will be installed at about the 6" differential mark to make room for my long legs. This should be a non-factor as the control unit will be 6" further back than originally placed.

3) Had 6 bolts anchoring that motor to the transom, 4 above the splashwell, 2 beneath. I think they were 1/2" bolts - more rust than bolt. Either way, I can get the bolts I need.

Thanks for the great info, Jim. Nothing on this boat is going to be easy. But it IS fun.

I have the manual version (#65) on my 1959 Club Mariner that I converted from I/O to Outboard...here's a pic of how Dr Frankenmerc (Thom Adams) had to deal with the steering cable on a 1974 -1150 Merc with tilt...

I got mine at: www.transomjacks.com/cmc/manual.htm was much less than anywhere else ...

Love the unit...even this "basic" unit has allowed us to do very fine "tweaking" of the motors position to great advantage...they're really well made units...

just ordered another for a '63 OMC 17 Deluxe that I found without an engine that I'm doing the same 115hp outboard mod to...

...Ric

Hi,
I am "Joe P".
I think the advice you have been given so far is excellent, but here is a little "con" thinking. The Mercury power trim system on freshwater motors is usually very durable. You may find that with some new hydraulic hoses, and maybe replacement of the limit switch wiring and/or a solenoid or two, that the system will have a long life still left. This avoids the new longer steering cable, it's rerouting, and a link arm kit for tilt tube mounting the steering cable. Again, I do not question any of the advice given, only your first assumption.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com

Ferguson_Poole wrote:

Hi,
I am "Joe P".
I think the advice you have been given so far is excellent, but here is a little "con" thinking. The Mercury power trim system on freshwater motors is usually very durable. You may find that with some new hydraulic hoses, and maybe replacement of the limit switch wiring and/or a solenoid or two, that the system will have a long life still left. This avoids the new longer steering cable, it's rerouting, and a link arm kit for tilt tube mounting the steering cable. Again, I do not question any of the advice given, only your first assumption.

Regards,
Joe
www.fergusonpoolemarine.com

Hi, Joe, and thanks for your insight. I haven't committed to replacing the original system as of yet. Still researching & pricing both ... it will be next spring for I actually decide. Work has been very slow on the boat the past few weeks, but I am hoping to have enough hands available next weekend to get the cap off.

I only have a narrow sloped driveway to work in - which means no room for any sort of lift system. Cap will fit in the garage, but has to be moved into the garage by hand as it does not line up with the driveway. A that point I need to get the hull, floor and transom completed before winter - at which point the hull and trailer will go to my GF's son's house an hour away for winter storage. Need the driveway for off-street parking on 'snow days' ...

The motor's mounting clamp needs work, as well. Serious work & I hope I can find the parts.



The tilt unit is a mess. Including all of the wiring. One of the cylinders was bone dry & frozen. The hydraulic line to it had been cut at some point and clamped off with vise grips. Another line had been cut and plugged with a bolt. Then there is the motor unit ...



It all looks to me like a complete rebuild - or replacing it with something else. Like the CMC.

The steering is also frozen, BTW.

So. I'm moving slowly and weighing options. Cost is certainly a factor, but does not weigh as heavily with me as having to re-work a problem two or more times. Does that make sense?

So. I'm moving slowly and weighing options. Cost is certainly a factor, but does not weigh as heavily with me as having to re-work a problem two or more times. Does that make sense?

Absolutely! (Let's fix this ONCE and be done with it, I'm with you all the way on that!) Sounds like you have plenty of time to check on sourcing the parts needed to refurbish the O.E. system, which would be preferable, IMHO. Evidently you're looking at a complete rebuild, replacement on most if not all the parts, but Joe and several others will be glad to help, I'm sure!

I just stumbled on to this.
Several years ago I bought a used CMC electro mechanical unit for $200.00 It worked great. They are very stout units.
Two weeks ago I was lucky and got another one. This one hydro electical, with controls, for $200.00. This was a very lucky find, in great shape.
The point of this, is that I have, and had, very sound engines to mount on the CMC units.
From the pictures that you have posted, there is an extreme amount of decay, rust, oxidation, what ever, that would half to be replaced before you could mount it on a CMC unit.
If your current engine is sound, you might be better off, money and time wise, looking for a blown engine, that has good mounting brackets. No new holes, new hoses, new cables. Just a thought.
Good luck.darb

old darb wrote:

I just stumbled on to this.
Several years ago I bought a used CMC electro mechanical unit for $200.00 It worked great. They are very stout units.
Two weeks ago I was lucky and got another one. This one hydro electical, with controls, for $200.00. This was a very lucky find, in great shape.
The point of this, is that I have, and had, very sound engines to mount on the CMC units.
From the pictures that you have posted, there is an extreme amount of decay, rust, oxidation, what ever, that would half to be replaced before you could mount it on a CMC unit.
If your current engine is sound, you might be better off, money and time wise, looking for a blown engine, that has good mounting brackets. No new holes, new hoses, new cables. Just a thought.
Good luck.darb

Yup, leaving no stone unturned - even to the point of pricing a new, and smaller engine. A 75hp or 90hp.

I do know that I'm not re-mounting that corroded unit back on the boat.

The guy who was coming by to check my motor has yet to show up. I'm not mechanically inclined, so it's something I'd prefer to leave to someone who knows what they are doing & looking at. But that's still a long term issue for me, so no rush - with the understanding that I will get a better price at the end of summer than spring/summer for another engine.

I've found a few rebuilt Mercury trim units (though not for my year engine) and they are coming in close to $8-900. So, unless I find the right unit at a much better price I will probably go with the CMC unit. Even new it's 2/3 the price of a refurbished Mercury tilt unit.

Ah, decisions, decisions ...