TOPIC: Removed Motor Cover Today, Been 30+ Years!!!

Today I was at the cabin and had a little time to fiddle around with the boat finally. I removed the motor cover for the first time in over 30 years. This is the first time I have ever had the cover off and I can say that I was pleasantly surprised and how clean the motor looked. After taking a few pictures, I got in there, said a little prayer and grabbed the flywheel and gave it a turn and was astounded when it turned and was not seized. I could feel the compression from the motor!!!!! I had so many people tell me that after sitting for so many years, the motor was probably seized up, so you can imagine how happy I am to now know that the motor is fine!!! Now on to the next steps. Haven't pulled the plugs yet to check their condition, will do that in the near future. So, now I need some pointers on what to do next. Change lower unit oil? Clean the carburetor? Step by step, hopefully not long until I get to hear the motor run!!!! Here are a few pics.





















I tried to upload a video of turning the flywheel and turning the motor with the pull start but I can't seem to get the video to load.

Beautiful

Every old boat I get with outboard motor has the motor hood FULL of smelly, yucky mouse nests. Every single one!

Andreas

Andreas, you stole my line...but I did have one over the years that just had the wires chewed sans the seasonal bedding.

Wow!!!! When I got the cover off, I couldn't believe it. I had never even had the cover off before and the boat has been sitting for over 30 years in the boathouse. Hope it doesn't take much to get her to sing again.

Have to admit thats pretty amazing! Could have looked like this one!

That looks like a brand new motor! Mine wasn't horrid, but it had definitely hosted a few mice.

I finally got the cover off of my 1964 big twin it was in a barn for over 35 years, the lock broke even after soaking it for a week. the insides looked like cal.s motor, but it is not stuck, it is just a parts motor. greg

Yeah, I'm feeling very fortunate right now especially after seeing those pictures of those other motors. I didn't know what to expect when I removed the cover. I have no idea if my Pawpaw had possibly prepared the motor for being in storage or if it was just shut off after a boat ride and was going to be used again shortly after. All I know is that he must've really taken care of the motor just like he did all of his things. Cannot wait to move on to the next step in getting the motor running!!! Hard to believe this motor is 50 years old!!!!

You asked for input on what to do next, so I'll start, others will chime in. First, before you spin the motor over any more, please order a new water pump impeller and install it. Not a hard job. The current impeller may be brittle enough to break off in pieces which can block passages and overheat the motor. Second, put a pan under the gearcase and crack the fill screw open enough to drip a bit out. If it looks like fresh oil, all ok. Any water or discoloration, change it. Third, get a can of fogging oil. After changing the impeller, remove the spark plugs and spray a generous amount in each cylinder. If you check the starter, spray into the carb as you crank it over. Checking the carb and ignition system will be next in line, just get these basics first. Very important. Best of luck, keep us informed.

Thanks so much for the advice, input and direction. I will check that impeller first for sure. Some years ago, I had asked my Grandmother about the boat and all she said was that it needed a water pump, but I didn't ask anything more about it. I got the feeling that she didn't really want anyone messing around with the boat. Anyway, I will check it all out beginning with that impeller first for sure. Thanks again and any advice is welcome for sure.

Question: what would be the correct gear case oil and where might I get this and also, what is "fogging oil" and where would I get this also, any particular brand name for each? Thank you.

Your grandfather was a very thorough and smart man fortunate to have a grandson to carry on his legacy. What Kerry said is essential. I would check all the hoses for cracking and loose fitting around the connections. They might look good but over time the rubber gets brittle and will crack. Fuel line is cheap and available in bulk at any auto parts store. Just measure the length of the hoses and get a long piece of line and cut it to match. The original hose clamps will probably not fit aftermarket line so you might want to get some screw type clamps also. From experience get another foot longer than you need and give yourself some slack. The fogging oil is just that. Comes in spray cans and actually called "fogging oil" also available at the auto parts stores or your local Ace or True Value or big box store. I also use the fogging oil as a general lube for some of the moving parts and spray it on the motor as a protectant. In reality it's just a very light oil in a convenient can.

Thank you so much. I plan to also change the oil in the gear case even if it looks good, it's old oil and I want to put fresh oil in there. Is the gear oil a 90 weight like you would find in the rear end of a car?

you will need lower unit oil for an outboard....don't unscrew the phillips screw as it holds the shift fork....should be a utube on line for changing the lube...john

Thank you all for the help. I definitely don't want to use the wrong oil and mess up a perfectly good motor. I suppose I should just go to a marina to get the proper gear oil or can you find this at an auto parts store? One good thing is that I have the original manual for this motor and it states to use a certain type of lube for the gear case but I cannot remember what it is right now and I don't have the manual with me at a the moment.

You can get gearcase lube at Walmart, Cabelas, Gander Mtn, or similar stores that sell boating stuff. P.S. Its not the same as auto gear lube. Additives are used to prevent rust and resist water, among other differences.

Thank you so much to everyone for the kind words, advice, and direction. Little by little and step by step, getting closer to having my Pawpaws boat back in the water. Already checked about registering her also and it's going to be very easy and very inexpensive to do so. My goal is to have her in the water and running by the week of the 4th of July, hopefully, that will be enough weekends to get things in order. Updates will come.

That motor has the good old manual shift lower unit. Any good quality hypoid gear oil SAE 80/90 will do fine as per the manufacturers original recommendation. No need to spend a bunch of money for additives that make no difference in the old motors. Now if you had a modern motor that specified a synthetic lube I'd stick with that!

Thanks. A couple of weekends and I hope to have her in the water. Man, that's going to be an emotional day, happy day though.

Be sure you use Type C oil in the lower unit. Read the tag inside the hood. The 1965 40 Johnson on my Custom Craft looked very similar when I told the cover off. Is it electric or manual shift?

That motor has the manual shift lower unit and does not need Type C which is only used in the electric shift models. Like I said above any good Hypoid 80/90 is fine for this motor.

Yes, I would assume it is a manual shift being that there is a cable running to it. It does say electric on the cover, but I assume also that is because of the starter perhaps? It is a 1966 Super Sea Horse and I do have the original manual for this motor, I read it cover to cover, but I will check it all out again.
Question: where would I find a water pump impeller for this motor?
I just looked at a picture that shows the model number or serial number and it says, "RDS-28B"

Here ya go. Upstanding company you can't go wrong less than $25.

chttp://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1966&hp=40&model=RDS-28&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Gearcase+Group

Wow, that was easy, many thanks for that link.

see u tomarrow at 7 central!!!!!

Wish I could join in the chat but I will be at work. Last week of 2nd shift.

The tag under the motor hood does say use Type C

Yep, you are correct, it does say to use type "c". What exactly is type "c"?

A special blend. Readily available at West Marine

Pawpaws Boat wrote:

Yep, you are correct, it does say to use to use type "c". What exactly is type "c"?

The tag under the hood is wrong. Or maybe it's a hood from an electric-shift motor.

The gear oil recommended by outboard mfrs for older manual-shift lower units is commonly known as "Hi-Vis" or "Marine Grade".

This lube has special additives to promote mixing of any water that might find its way into the gear oil via leaky seal, etc. It also has corrosion-inhibitors for that purpose.

And yes, you could use standard 90W hypoid gear oil in a pinch. But automotive oil doesn't have the additives and if you were to run for a long time with water in the L/U, there's no extra layer of protection. That being said, in a L/U that's not getting water in it, it'd be perfectly safe to run automotive gear oil.

Hi-Vis is better for marine use, and not that $pendy if you pick up some in the Marine section at Walmart or most auto parts stores. NAPA typically will carry Sta-Lube or some other aftermarket brand of Hi-Vis.

Johnson/Evinrude "Premium Blend Gearcase Lube" would be the current oil that is recommended for electric-shift L/U's, BTW. J/E sells a "Hi-Vis" lube as well.

If you pick up a quart bottle of lube, it'll be more than you'll need. In the same display you'll probably find a small hand pump that screws into the quart bottle, highly recommended! Much better than "tube of lube", which is a miserable way to try and fill a larger L/U with gear oil.

www.walmart.com/ip/Super-Tech-80W-90-Marine-Gear-Lube-1-Qt/16928007#about

www.walmart.com/ip/Shoreline-Marine-Lower-Unit-Lube-Pump/35259578

HTH..........ed

Well, all I know is that this motor was bought new so the hood is original to the motor.

good grief charlie brown....just spend the buck 30 and get the good stuf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Exactly, I do know that I want to put the correct gear lube in there and I don't care what the cost is, I want the best. By the way, I thought that the "electric" badge on the hood was referring to the electric start.

Post a picture of the hood and the controls. Also, there is a model number of the tag. Post that as well. Let's answer this once and for all.

Okay sorry I haven't been on here in a while, been tied up with work, beach trip to Destin, Fl, and a family member's wedding. Fun stuff except for the last in the list, real circus there. Anyway, here are some pictures of the hood from the motor. Also, pictures of the Johnson Ship Master controls. Here is also a picture of a tag that is on the front bottom of the motor under the hood, it reads RDS-28B. The motor was purchased from a dealer brand new in 1966 and that is really all I know about it. I also have the manual that came with the motor.

Looks like it just came off the showroom! Still takes "Hi-Vis" gear lube in the lower unit.

Since it's all-original, I can only conclude that the wrong tag on the inside of the hood was installed at the factory.

Bottom line, manual-shift gearboxes do not require Type "C" gear lube. HTH.........ed

Thanks for the clarification.