TOPIC: beginning to plumb the cruiser

ok i jumped in and cut a hole in the floor in the front for a inspection plate and i am plumbing a bilge pump . i am making a switch to start the pump the normal float switches wont work with my bilge. i will feed it to the sink drain ,then out the side of the boat. it will be auto and manual i am trying to figure out how to run the wiring harness and controls from the front to the rear under the gunwale i want to tube it but the end of the motor harness is too big for the pipe .. steering is gonna work but the harness is already attached to the control box. i need some suggestions to mount a track of some kind without putting screws through the side of the boat. i will get a couple of pictures when i get a little future along. ok guys thinking caps on.......

billy

When I re-did my Winner I put PVC pipe under the seat at the sides using the brass bolts that went through the hull holding on the spray rail. You can see a small section of it in this pic. All I have in it is the wiring for the lights and sonar.

PVC as a conduit is a good idea but rather than putting holes in the hull you might try epoxying the PVC to the hull anywhere that provides the best access.
Merry Christmas
Jack

ok i was thinking that but if i needed to add something which i probably will i wanted to be able to remove it and put it back so i sat and came up with this

1x6" drilled for my tubes i need several then epoxy the boards in . then i can splice the tubes and add couplings to be able to break them down and add cabling and then reinstall with short runs the tubing wont come loose , i need the following
1 wiring harness to battery
2 engine harness to control box
3 control cables and steering cables
4 i also need a small one for my water pressure tube

the problem is the engine plug is big and i dont want to use a larger tube just for the plug. the harness is already connected to the control box.

here is the diagram

Something I have used. Go to a big box store. Home Depo, Menards and get a cardboard tube from a roll of carpet. There about three dollars. Take the tube and cut the length you need then cut the tube in half the long way. Hold it were you want it on the boat with some duck tape and tab it with some fiberglass cloth just a few spots to hold it. When that is set up then glass the whole tube in and color it to match if it can be seen. Or good enough to hold it like you want.
This system can be high and out of the way and if you need you can make cuts in the tube and curve it so that it follows a contour.

D

ok like a cable tray will hold the cabling but still gives you a ability to add stuff later on.. i like it

ok here is are the pictures i promised these are for the bilge pump the connected line is for the water the one needing to be connected is for the float switch it will be two screws (brass) just for a circuit closure to trip a dry contact relay to start the pump. it will feed into a tee i just ordered with 1 1/2" hose down to a 3/4" tee for the bilge hose into the sink drain.
advice greatly appreciated. oh the switch and pump will be under the bunk in the cabin ,should be water tite for the most part.

billy

Hope you don't mind a question Billy, but I'm concerned that we see a little uncovered plywood in your pics (2,3,&4). Maybe you just haven't gotten around to glassing it in yet, if so please excuse my intrusion. If not, please consider at least a layer of csm and resin to weatherproof the wood. Some epoxy paint might do the trick, but I believe in making the error on the safe side when dealing with wood in the marine environment.

Just my two cents.......