TOPIC: Oh snap

Well was going rebuild the carb on my 66 evinrude and thought it was wierd the choke blade was really loose feeling. Well found out why. It broke on the end by auto choke. Even worse it the carb housing ovaled out from it being broke. Also found inside the choke housing the springs not hooked up and the eletric solenoid missing it guts and the wire to it. Now my main fear with the housing ovaled out is there a chance of water enter the intake of the carb from the choke housing. It has the auto with the tube going to it. I found a carb on ebay that from a 67 it doesn't have the auto choke but it got every thing else like mine could rob/transfer parts between them?

The upper half of the carburetor is where the choke components are located. The electric choke carb will have the air horn drilled differently and is not a good solution. Find the correct carb for your engine & you will avoid headaches. These carburetors are easy to find - just spend a little time looking. Be sure to install a new float - and one that was made recently. New floats will resist the alcohol in modern fuels. The NOS floats coated with red shellac will fail.

Mine has the eletric on it too and the auto if that makes sense. As for the float the one that was in this carb was cork it looked solid yet. Inside was spotless. I would even have taken it apart if the fuel was blowing out the bowl vent in the front when I tried starting it. I would be ok with just using the eletric only choke it has the switch and the wiring on the engine for it.

Well I did get that 67 carb. Between the 2 I made one. Both carbs were kinda the same. Look the same but the side that auto choke was on mine. Now I was looking at my carb kit break down it looks like mine not a hot water choke but hot air? How does one set the spring on the inside that housing. I see you can spin it. Also the same side the pipe from motor goes to the carb it has an open plug on the bottom that open. Should this be plugged?

I have seen the air intake on the exhaust manifold plugged.----Big red flag , someone worked on the motor who had no clue !!

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That open fitting is where air enters and it is drawn through the heat exchanger in the exhaust manifold.----The air then goes through that tube to the bi-metallic coil to control tension on the choke.----Do not plug that open fitting.

Thanks for the advice. It confused me that it was open. I won't plug it so why is it treaded?

also how much tension should be put on the choke blade with the spring?

The fitting is threaded ( bulk head fittings )so it could be installed and sealed against water and exhaust leaks.

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IT SHOULD NOT BE PLUGGED !!!