TOPIC: noob question about waterpump replacement...

went to pull the waterpump on my fat fifty today. never replaced one before. removed the 8 bolts that hold things together. the bottom half dropped loose and i could see the water pump housing, etc, but the shift linkage remained attached. this kept me from getting things apart. with limited knowledge of outboards and a pretty primitive manual to go off of, i opted to stop and ask instead of getting out a bigger hammer, so to speak.

so, how do i remove the shift linkage so i can get at the waterpump?

On the side of the exhaust "leg" there's a "window" held on with 2 screws. Remove this and underneath you'll find another cover which is removed to access the brass coupler which joins upper and lower shift shafts.

Loosen and remove ONLY the lower bolt in the coupler, and the shift shaft should come out of the coupler as you leverage the lower unit off.

Note: before reinstalling, use a long flat-bladed screwdriver to pry the lower part of the coupler joint open a bit, this will help ease the shift shaft back into the coupler.

You'll note, once the lower unit is down, that the end of the shift shaft has a groove in it. This groove must align exactly with the lower bolt hole of the coupler, before inserting the bolt and torquing it down. If it's not exactly lined up, you could strip out the bolt, and sometimes mess up the coupler as well. Not fun!

When you're servicing the water pump, be sure to spread a thin layer of Permatex No. 3 Aviation-type gasket dressing on the pump mating flange on the lower unit, and also on the flange of the water pump body itself. This'll help ensure a good seal and better pump action.

Use some of that Permatex on the pump bolts if you're operating in salt, otherwise a good slather of waterproof grease (boat bearing grease, etc) or anti-seize works well.

Use some of that grease on the lower unit mounting bolts and also on the bolts/screws for the access windows/plates. It's really no fun trying to get stuck fasteners out of the center section and the grease makes a barrier that keeps out salt and other deposits.

HTH.........ed

Also - DO NOT remove that bolt from the coupler with the lower unit hanging by the shift rod. Either support the lower unit or put one of the bolts back in the housing. You will strip the threads off the coupler bolt if you remove it with the unit hanging on it.

thanks for the info! figured that there was something simple i was missing.

got the waterpump out. it looks like it was changed real recently. at least to my untrained eye, anyway. also, you guys weren't kidding about the removing the bolt thing. for some reason i swore i thought i remembered someone saying DON'T remove the bolt, and off i went. after 15 minutes of being fed-up, i finally removed the bolt. it then dropped out no problem. boogered up the bolt though. good thing i got a spare i suppose. oh well, live and learn. anyway, here's a pic of the waterpump. please tell me what you think!

Even though your impeller doesn't look bad, I would put a new one in there if it were me Riceman. You're right, it appears to have very little wear on the vanes, but it's as much about the age of the rubber as it is the wear factor. They really need to be changed out every couple of years, and since you have it apart anyway why not put a fresh one in?

It's my understanding that if the vanes don't return to a "straight" position several hours after being removed, it's time to replace. Yours appear to have taken a slight "set" to the curved side.

Also I would inspect the inside of the housing (known as the cup?) for wear grooves. Anything you can catch your fingernail in would indicate need for attention. Any seals should be inspected and replaced (if questionable) as well, IMHO. You've got the hard part done, (getting it apart), why not go ahead and service everything while you're in there?

Just my two cents..........

From the pix of the impeller it has taken a set. That is the blades are bent a new impeller they are stright. If that is all you need you can get them at NAPA auto parts for $20 or so. You will most likely have to order it and if in wearhouse it will be there the next day. If you have a bunch of parts to order try Seirra Marine.
Mike aka the pirate