TOPIC: Seeking advice for my 64 Evinrude Starflite 90S.

Hey Guys... anyone willing to give an opinion? I have a 1960 Starflite 90S bolted to my 60 G3. The old girl has been running strong this summer, but has now developed a problem. Last Sunday it quit running while on full plane...like someone had shut off the switch. Wouldn't restart and I was towed in. I found a loose wire to the coil, tightened it and headed back out the next day for a short test drive and it ran great. I took it out again Thursday and ran her for a few hours with no problems, but then the same thing. It shut off while running wide out. It restarted momentarily, but shut down again once going, and wouldn't restart this time. Towed in again. I got it home, and then it restarted without hesitation. I believe this is an ingnition related problem. Which component is most likely to give intermitant challenges? Coil? Voltage Regulator? How can I test these without just throwing parts at it?

THANKS! your help is appreciated as it is hard to find someone that knows their way around one of these old girls.

THANKS! Dan Wittek

sounds like a loose connection someplace. Check the fuse, fuse holder, wires to the coils, ignition switch wiring. To me it doesnt sound like a bad component as much as a bad wire.

Welcome Dan. After checking all connections as suggested, I'd take a look at the coil. They generate heat when running, and I've seen them run for a while until they get hot, then shut down. The problem will continue to get worse until it finally gives up completely. If she cranks up, run it until it shuts down. Then try this test;
www.ehow.com/how_4558863_check-ignition-coil.html
Just my opinion......

I'm with Mark. I've seen coils break down when they get hot. Do you know what it will do for top speed? I have a nice johnson 90 that I want to put on my G-3 when I get it done.

In the event the coil tests OK it could be a fuel supply problem. Mine did about the same thing even after I replaced all the fuel lines and rebuilt the pump and carburetor.

I blew all the lines out with the air compressor and then took off all the quick connects. I found a tiny piece of plastic that could suck up against the quick connect and block the fuel supply. Took it out and problem solved.

But I'll admit the coil sounds more likely.

Thanks Guys! This is great. I am going to start with the coil and the condenser as they are both inexpensive. I'll keep you posted.

To answer your question...she goes about 40 with a 12 pitch prop. Still working out the bugs! I plan to rebuild the motor this winter as it only has 80 pounds compression in each cylinder. Overall, it runs great, just lacks some power...and this darn stalling issue! Thanks again!

I think you might need to reconsider " rebuilding " that motor.

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First I would check your gauge as 80 PSI and even is good ( depending on the gauge )

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You also might be shocked at the price of the parts if available " new "

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The speed indicates that there is not much wrong with the motor.

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Installing the 66 100 HP lower unit might even get you 3 MPH more.

Thanks for the advice! I have actually already obtained ALL parts for this rebuild. They are sitting on my shelf waiting to be installed. I found NOS .010 pistons from a dealer in New York and a complete gasket set from Gano outboard. Additionally, one of my best friends owns a machine shop and is taking this motor on as a "personal challenge." In my reading I have heard that 100 - 110 psi is optimum? While an even 80 is not horrible, it certainly isn't as good as it could / should be. I appreciate your concern though!

What is the difference between my 90 hp lower unit and the 100 hp? THANKS AGAIN!

-Dan

Sorry , I did not know that you had all the parts already.

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The 100 HP lower unit is much bigger and heftier.

Dan,

The coil is suspect for the engine konking out, and if the coil still has a woven cloth wire hooked to the primary, this could be the problem too. The cloth wires were a 1.5 Ohm resistor wire to protect the coil & points from overheating. The original coil was about 1.5 Ohm. If you replace the coil, get a 3 Ohm coil & replace the cloth resistance wire with a regular wire. I like to use the Pertronix 3 Ohm "Flame thrower" epoxy coil. It kicks out over 40,000 volts. This allows you to ditch the resistor wire as mentioned above. There should also be a flexible ground wire that attaches to the distributor body and goes to the distrubutor mounting bracket & block.

Also - as the Prof. says, rebuild may not be needed. 80 Lbs compression per jug ain't bad - and from my experience, about average for a good used engine. Chances are that the top piston rings are coked up & stuck in the piston groove. Before committing to a rebuild, pop the heads and look at the cylinder walls for scores. You should also pop the transfer port covers off & look at the piston skirts while slowly turning the flywheel. If things look fairly clean and no major scores, I wouldn't re bore it. Save those OS pistons for a block that is really beat & needs a rebore.

Though you didn't ask - if you plan to run vintage power on your G3, why not put the transom back to 15" ? You could get rid of the jackplate, and remove the 5" extension from the engine. Short shaft parts for the OMC v4s are very easy to get. I think the boat would look cooler and it would handle better. Lowering the center of gravity will make it a bit easier to control.

To get your boat above 40 MPH, try to find a vintage high performance prop. Usually a bronze 2 blade type is the best for speed. A correctly set up vintage Hi Po prop will make a BIG difference

P.S. if the shop where you got the pistons has more of those NOS pistons - I'd be VERY interested in getting some. I have a couple blocks that need reboring.

Hey Bruce! THanks for the reply. I found your old post to me on the old forum and have followed your directions. Ready for a test drive. I installed a pertronix coil, lost the resistor wire, better plugs, new wires, new capacitor etc. I hope she is good to go. I also checked the timing belt alignment and it is spot on. We'll see. As far as the rebuild goes...I have had the heads off and one cylinder especially needs some attention. Specifically.. 3 are at 80 and one is about 70 -75. This particular jug has rust pits inside the cylinder...almost like there was standing water in there for a while. Regardless...I am going to rebuild it because I like a challenge and I have full access to my buddies machine shop. As for my setup... that is an old picture. It is now a short-shaft and that has helped things out quite a bit. Do you know Dan Gano? He has just about everything I have ever needed for this old girl with the exception of pistons. He is awesome. www.ganotech.com/ I am also currently looking for some old school props.

Lastly, I don't recall the name of the dealer that I got my pistons from, but it was an OMC dealer in Buffalo New York. He said he had them on the shelf for 30 years and just knew that someone would call for them some day! I got lucky.. he sold them CHEAP. $50 a pop if I recall correctly... with rings. I REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR INSIGHT AND ADVICE. I'll keep you posted!

Dan,

I hope the repairs solve the problem. If not, the only thing left is fuel - either pump issue or gunk in the carb.

You can gap the plugs wider with that Pertronix coil. I've been setting the ones in my engines at .035" - .040" and they run great.

Hopefully, the cylinders in the block will clean up with the .010" overbore. Be sure to advise your machinist that the pistons fit VERY loose in the bores. Like falling out loose.... This allows the thick aluminum pistons to expand when hot. The first time I took a crossflow apart I couldn't believe hoe sloppy the pistons were.

Interestingly - the clearance specifications in the OMC shop manual show very different numbers than I've seen in real life. I have a NOS 1968 85HP factory replacement powerhead - and the pistons must have .030" slop or more. The shop manual clearances are a fraction of that. I've always wondered about this... Maybe the Prof. or Scott Stewart - or someone else knows.

Hey Bruce. Just got back from a test ride! Certainly more responsive! Speed was about the same, but hole shot was improved. Most importantly... I make it back to the dock under my own power! It just sounded better overall. Now to continue my quest for the perfect prop...

THANKS!