TOPIC: Evinrude Starflite 100-s OB Advice

Hi, I'm new to the site - and a new owner of a 1962 Crestliner Del Rio Imperial. It came with a year unknown Evinrude Starflite 100-S vintage motor. I will post images of the actual motor shortly, but attach a somewhat cool 1967 ad for the engine when released and of course, a James Bond movie poster with the engine shown.

Does anyone out there have any experience with this engine? I would really like to restore it but have no manuals nor do I know if parts and service if I elect not to delve into the repair myself are available. Any thoughts on performance, reliability, etc - it's a great looking period piece and suits the boat so I would like to get it back on the water but need to know a little about its history..

Any advice would be most appreciated - I'm in Toronto Canada .

Very pleased to be part of this fine owners club !

Matthew

I had one- big beasts of a V4, but reliable given proper maintenance such as using the correct lower unit lube for electric shift outboards, keeping good battery-to-wiring harness connections (not wingnuts!), and of course replacing the impeller in the water pump. Parts can be found given a little searching via E-bay and such. The biggest issue most have with these 100-S models are the 4-barrel carburetors which were unique to this series and are somewhat difficult to find rebuild kits for.

If given the model number (or maybe some good photos), we can give the model-year of your motor. Each year, 1966, '67, and '68 were slightly different (magneto ignition system in '66, electronic ignition in '67 and '68 plus a different fuel pump as well).

Dear HandyAndy,

Thaks very much for the info - very helpful indeed. I attach a shot of the engine with housing. I'll have to take some of the cowling removed. The Service image helped a great deal too - the description of the four barrel carbs made sense as the former owner removed the carbs as he was digging to a head gasket he claims needs to be repaired. I suspect I have most of the parts removed.

Here are some images of the engine - is there a standard location for model markings to better determine actual year of manufacture?

Again, many thanks for the response

Also,

Forgot to ask - do you know of any source for a serivice/repair manual for this engine? I've searched online to no avail...

Cheers, Matthew

Looks like you have the 1966 model-year. The model number is 100683 or 100693- this information can be found on the data plate located on the tilt bracket or on the welch plug located on the engine block. This model-year is usually preferred to the 1967 or 1968 models which have ignition and fuel pump systems with more difficult to find and more expensive components.

Here's scans of the 1966 Evinrude catalog:
old-omc.de/start.html

Reproductions of Owners/Service/Parts Manuals:
www.outboardbooks.com/

Original owners manuals, service manuals, and parts catalogs can be found on Ebay with a little searching and usually are cheaper than Ken Cook.

Some photos with the cowling removed should give us some idea of the current situation with the motor. There is no reason to remove the carb in this model to get to the head gasket. Problems with a head gasket should be first diagnosed with an visual inspection of the seal for evidence of overheating and a compression test of each cylinder. This is done by using an automotive compression test gauge with a flexible extension that threads into the spark plug hole of the cylinder to be tested. The motor is then turned over by the starter or by a pull rope and the pressure read from the gauge. Pressure readings should be similar for all four cylinders.

From the look of your boat, it hasn't experienced a rough life and I don't expect the motor (being a newer replacement to the boat) has too many hours on it or service issues to deal with. I suspect the original motor might have been a Mercury, judging by the Quicksilver steering wheel, a Mercury Outboards accessory.

Andy,

You are a wealth of info- can't thank you enough for taking the time to engage in this particular adventure. The links were very helpful. Model Number is 100693R with a serial # C492027

I popped the cowling and took the following photographs outlining the current condition of the engine. Most of the parts missing for the carb set I have but are in pieces.

Anything you can tell me from the limited clarity of the photographs regarding the overall condition of the engine, things that don't make sense - missing?

I noticed that you have a similar motor mounted to one of your boats in your profile - what's the story on it - have you had it long?

Cheers,

Matthew

The 66 had the conventional battery / coil ignition.

---

The 67 had cd / breakerless ignition with the big expensive amplifier mounted at the back.

---

The 67 model can be retrofitted with the 66 ignition.

---

The 68 had cd ignition with the distributor under the flywheel.

---

These are good solid engines with the bullet proof electric shift lower unit.

---

Used parts are easy to find.

Professor, many thanks.

Safe to assume unless there is something lurking in the compression or lower unit that is not obvious, this would be a good candidate to restore...

it's interesting that Andy in a previous response suggested that the Quicksilver steering was a Merc Accessory but i noted in the original catalogue images for this boat that it had the distinctive squared oval steering wheel. Do you believe this engine was supplied with the boat or was retrofit. Does this motor look to be a 1966 vintage to you (if you can tell)?

Great to hear that all things being equal, there is no reason this engine shouldn't be restored and should be a reliable and fun assuming it is done correctly. any sources of restoration and tuning for this motor in the Ontario region (or elsewhere) I might consider. I have limited time as I’m a single Dad of two young kids - but would love to find the time to stumble through it if not too complex as I’m pretty good with my hands.

Where might I start in my search for parts – are rebuild carb sets available?

Again, thanks for the info and assistance,

Cheers,

Matthew

100693 is a 1966 model 100HP. Clint

I am in ONTARIO

---

( owensound area )----many parts motors on hand and many years of experience. ---NO RUSH WORK at all.

Boat manufacturers did not install outboard motors on their boats. Dealers packaged boats and motors and trailers. So whatever brand or brands that the dealer had was what got installed on the boat.

QuickSilver and RideGuide are Mercury/Kiekhaefer steering set up.

The boat may have originally been rigged with a Mercury and somewhere along the line it was switched to the Evinrude.

Old brochures and stuff for OMC motors can be found at www.old-omc.de

Andreas

I have the Johnson or Evinrude manual for the 67 meteor//starflite
they are both the same. one says johnson one says evinrude

Jim,

Thanks for responding. Would you consider parting with it? I have just ordered a Seloc Johnson & Evinrude Outboard Vol. 3, 50-125HP, 1958-1972 Repair Manual which apparently details this motor which might do the trick...

Let me know,

Best,

Matthew

sure. I have no need for it anymore. I paid $30 for it on ebay. Unlike the seloc that covers many models this is specific to the Meteor/Starflite. I just sold my meteor 100 HP I can't remember if I gave the guy the Johnson or Evinrude manual but either way they are the same exact motor. Let me grab it and I will get back to you in a little while.
Here are some pics of the Meteor II we had on our Cruisers Inc Royal Vacationer 570. Going with a Merc this year. I have a 59 V-4 50 Evy for one of my Glasspar G3's.

Jim

Yep, it appears your carburetor is completely dismounted. Hopefully it is not disassembled.

I had a '66 Evinrude 100-S stolen last summer, probably for aluminum scrap. Mine had been updated to the 1967 ignition system. I don't know particular much about outboards, just enough to get by. There are some fellows with lots of experience around who are the real ones to listen to. I suggest getting in touch with professor.

Jim,

Wow, what a beautiful boat you have - what kind of condition was she in when you first got it? The Meteor II front face looks very similar indeed.

Let me know when you have the manual found, It would be very helpful i suspect as I delve into this work

I will send you a link to my personal email so we can exchange addresses and I’ll send you whatever you think is fair,

All best,

Matthew

Andy..

Ah, yes, it is disassembled... thankfully, your advice to get in touch with the professor seemed prophetic as he has kindly suggested he may be able to help me out.

I'll be doing a compression test this weekend (will post results) and will be checking oil in the lower unit and draining it should any be found so he can pressure test it when he is in Toronto next.

Thank goodness for someone who actually understands these things that is local, hopefully prepared to assist and, appears might actually have some parts should they be required...

From all the responses I’ve had so far it seems this engine, unless damaged in ways yet unknown, might be back on the water at some point all things being equal - which frankly, is a thrilling thought.

Now just to find someone who can walk me through the survey of the hull and under decks to see what the glass is up to

Again, thank you to everyone who has help me in starting this process - I'm really thrilled it is finally, albeit slowly, underway,

Matthew

That is a nice looking motor, one of the best I've seen from that era.
Typically the paint wears off of the heads and the exhaust jacket plate with use, that one appears to have low hours.
The one on Clint's boat used to be mine, and she posted 124psi on every cylinder. Runs great. I also have a friend with a '64 Johnson 90hp Golden Meteor that was installed new on his Skagit 20. Motor has about 500 hours on her now, and purrs. He has records of every gallon of fuel ever put through that engine back to 64 (his dad bought it new, airline pilot so meticulous logbook keeper).

Yes carb rebuild kits are available, the complete factory kits have floats and needle/seat for each carb. I have them brand new in stock, send me a private email.

very useable. I didn't want to buy a rebuild. she needs cosmetics and minor improvements only. Paid extra for that but worth it. I like my toes in the sand at least once per week in the summer!

Billr,

Not knowing much about OB motors, when I popped the top I did marvel at how clean the engine looked - it shows no signs of leaks, or heat discoloration anywhere... (aside from the fact that the entire carb system has been removed...for a reason which is not known to me - what would someone be digging to if they took the carbs off and disassembled them?).

The new rebuild kits you have – what do they include? Are complete rebuilds available for the entire unit by any chance? I could spend a lot of time trying to find all the right parts for the one I have but it would likely save time and possibly money, not to mention a possible headache, if the entire carb could be purchased.

If this is not possible, perhaps you could send me some details on what the kits contain?

Now I’m off to drain the gearbox to see what lurks inside and complete a compression test…

Again, thanks very much for your assistance,

Mathew

I have factory rebuild kits complete, will get pics for you.
Shoot me an email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. with phone number.
I also have new in the wrapper complete gasket set in stock, a set of carburetors in stock (used), impellers, and more for these early 90/100hp V4 with the inline 4bbl.

There are all kinds of "dock talk" mythology rumors circulating about these and many other outboards. So not sure why someone took the carbs off, probably to clean them. I have had several of these 100hp in 1966/67/68 vintage. 66 had dual point ignition with distributor, 67 had distributor but with sensor/powerpack, 68 was first year for the ignition under flywheel on these.
I even had a Super Rare Evinrude X-115 for awhile last year, sold her to a racer/collector. A 1967, and it had been converted to the 66 setup with the points as many racers did back then. Had the dual pinion racing lower units (3 of them!) with the above water exhaust and the cheater plate to convert to underwater exhaust.
Basically, if you get one of these in nice condition with good compression, you can take care of the external parts and run the thing for years. Bruce's 90 is the same motor, mounted at the dealer in 1964. It has had fuel pump replaced, points/condensor/cap replaced, lower unit resealed, impeller replaced, and 2 years ago one of the head gaskets replaced and piston de-carboned. That motor is still running like a champ, providing smiles and great value. He uses the factory OMC oils in the lower unit and fuel, takes care of it. Think about that, the motor has required some maintenance, but 46 years later she is a reliable safe performer and it would take a lot of $$ to save enough fuel to make a new Etec viable. He's considered that, but everytime we cruise his payments are still pretty low at the fuel dock!
Clint's was mine, got it off a Glasspar, powerpack was bad. Got her home and did impeller/power pack/starter and she hasn't missed a beat since. He mounted her on a CMC bracket, so he added tilt/trim to her and it is a really nice package he's pleased with. Maybe he'll post pics, boy adding the CMC really brings the motor into the 21st century, for beaching it is just great.

That carburetor on the 100 is very reliable

---

single housing with 4 barrels. Rarely are new parts needed.

---

Used complete carburetors are available to those that truly want " help "

Professor,

I suspect there might be three types of help first is for those that do not have the manuals, service sheets and access to parts and then there is the help of someone who truely knows what they are doing which drives the third factor which is available time to figure out the process. I am all for learning the process as I belive this to be key if one is to immerse themselves in a hobby which includes the satisfaction of being able to service and maintain the object of ones desires properly.

My concern is that the parts I have for the carburetor which came with this engine are all over the place and I'm convinced that there are many parts missing and others which have sat out in the elements during the period the boat was out in the open and are now rusted...however, as I have not restored anything like this before, I will defer to those that understand the complaxities and nuances of the process and will rely on their expertise.

I am pleased to hear that these units are simple and reliable and that used parts for wahtever are missing are redily available. I hope to get to the compression test on Sunday as well as the lower unit oil investigation and will let you know the results.

Many thanks for your help ,

Matthew

here is a pic of the manual

Matthew,
Sent you pics of the new and used parts I have.
I'll grab a scan of the Parts Catalog carb sheet which shows all the parts on the carb, and those contained within the kit. Part number is 382059.

G3Jim is right about having the factory manual, also get the factory Parts Catalog, and Seloc too. Some stuff in the Seloc isn't in the factory manual, although I've forgotten now what the items were. I have every manual/parts catalog even for the boats back to 64ish. I don't sell them for obvious reasons, and my extra 67 manual went with the motor to Clint.

Be careful buying used parts for these, 66 differed from 67 differed from 68 in various areas.

Matthew, you're getting some priceless advise man! Bill is right, you can't ever have too much reference material. Some manuals, even the factory ones, will leave out a thing or two, but another will show it. Sometimes none of them cover it and you have to rely on forums and the good folks like Bill, Jim, the professor, and Andy who have tackled the problem before.

Another thing you should know is always buy factory parts (sometimes referred to as New Old Stock or NOS) when you can. Parts, lubricants, EVERYTHING! The quality is almost always better, and they generally last longer. Many times aftermarket parts are "close enough" to work, but nobody designs and manufactures to the level the factory does it. You might save a buck or two now, but it will cost you more in the long run. Besides, when I fix something I want it to stay fixed, not have to do it again in a few years.

Don't let anybody fault you if you can work a deal on buying assembled carbs. I'm not sure I would have wanted to tackle rebuilding dis-assembled carbs in a box when I first started! Even with manuals and exploded parts breakdowns, I still do them one carb at a time, so I have one assembled to look at if I get stuck or have a question. I even take pics as I pull them apart, and it still gets ??? sometimes!

Good luck and hang in there, you're gonna do just fine with this.

Jim,

perfect, Just let me know how we can arrange payment and i would gladly accept it -just tok a good long look at the motor and yes, This manual would be really helpful indeed.

Many thnaks for tracking it down, Matthew

Dear all who have kindly, patiently, expertly given advice on this issue

As winter fades from Southern Ontario, I find myself looking at the Del Rio in my driveway (with the motor now chained to the trailer thanks to the horrible report that HandyAndy had one removed from the back of his boat likely for the Aluminum content – yes, I live in a sketchy hood and as a result of all of your involvement I have now rolled the sleeves up and undertaken two initial tests on this engine with what I suspect are mixed results.

I drained the lower unit oil and looked for telltale signs of water (cloudy) and I am pleased to say that the oil which drained (on this cool Ontario evening) was thick, dark, shiny black and did not suggest, to my novice eye, that water had ever gained entry. I attach photographs of the lower unit oil as drained, inside of the motor cowling and plugs as removed. Regarding the image of the inside of the motor cowling, I was surprised to see how intact it was – I’m not sure if this is indicative of low hours or simply a well maintained engine during it’s life - or indeed any of these at all.

Now, to the compression… I removed all plugs, injected roughly half a teaspoon of medium grade oil into each cylinder through the spark plug hole, and connected the compression tester to cylinder 1. I then used jumper cables to turn the starter motor and the fist thing I noticed was how slowly the engine turned over- I had the cables connected to my idling Volvo V70 wagon. As the carburetor is removed I am assuming that free airflow was being amply provided, but I did notice that the lower unit was gently (stop it with my foot) turning the prop as the test was being undertaken. As this is an electric shift, how am I to know if the engine is in neutral…Now, the results are a little concerning I suspect – all cylinders came in within 5 PSI of one another, however all readings were from what I understand, low – 90 psi.

So, either the cool Ontario night and the long period of inactivity is effecting a proper engine crank, or the power being provided to the starter is insufficient, or, something is potentially wrong with the engine…

So, good news is the lower unit seal seems intact and is now drained and filled with new oil and the concerning news is all cylinders seem to have low compression – based on numbers I have seen bandied about on the forum. I have taken all of your sage advice and ordered the Seloc and have touched base with Jim to purchase his 1967 engine manual (even though mine is a 1966) so I have them for reference.

I suspect I should also consider replacement plug wires (mine appear intact but are getting brittle), fuel filter, water pump impeller, plugs, - anything else that should reasonably be replaced as part of this process you might suggest?

Any thoughts on the low compression?

The adventure continues and my hands smell like they have done something worthwhile for the first time since I restored my house built in 1863

Looking forward to any and all advice - it’s really is remarkable how all of you with experience in these areas have taken the time to help a novice with a newly realized (long have I had it) found passion for things made in what in may ways was a better and more classically stylish time.

Anyone I talk to about the help I have been given by all of you is gobsmacked and delighted that there is a community out there who bothers to take the time with such things and help newbies like me to put their hands and brains to work – I can see the envy in many of my neighbours eyes as I tinker away in the sun on the Del Rio.

Best to you all,

Matthew

spray a good amount of fogging oil or marvel mystery oil in each cylinder turning it over frequently in a clockwise rotation while adding oil. Let it sit for a week or so with the motor in the tilted up position again rotating it at frequent intervals. Put a good charged battery to the motor via the motor harness or other means but do not use jumper cables. You want good solid contact. Get that starter to crank that rascal good then re do the compression test. Any idea how long this motor has sat? The rings could be stiff but do not be afraid to use a good amount of oil it will only help the dry parts inside.
Her compression may come up a bit. If not pull the heads and see what you got. Check for scoring on the cylinder walls etc...

that is what I would do.

Jim,

Given the lack of any real indication of use, I’d say this motor has likely been sitting for over 40+ yrs... much of it (37 yrs) has been indoors I am told - sort of like a time capsule.

Thanks for the advice -I’ll start oiling it up and turning it over for the next week or so - which coincides nicely with some warmer weather. I’ll then get a good marine battery to drive it through the main ignition system and redo the test.

Appreciate the advice – thanks – does anyone know what the target compression should be for this motor?

Matthew

Jim! You’re a star - fogging oil generously sprayed into each cylinder, hand rotated. Left to sit with the engine raised.

Waited…

Came back, refogged, hand turned, refogged, then fogged the air intakes where the carburetor is missing - let sit.

Waited… 2 days…

Just went out, dropped the motor, removed the plugs – noticed that it turned by hand much easier – had hope.

Instead of messing with jumper cables attached to my car and the expense of a new marine battery I decided to try the old fashioned way and pulled the never used hand crank rope out of it’s box (still factory wound) and threw my 6’6” 230lbs behind the pull and…

Compression readings:

Before I took your advice and compression tested a dry engine: Cylinder 1-4: All 90psi

After I took your advice and fogged it: Cylinder 1-4: All 120psi

So, seems like there is hope in this old engine

Many thanks for the advice –worked like a charm.

At least with that out of the way I can now turn my head to getting the engine equipped with a carb, and see what happens next,

Matthew

Mathew,

I have the exact same engine in great shape. I am thinking of restoring it after reading your thread.

Could you tell me how it goes with your motor?

Thanks,
Hy

Absolutely - do you have any information on your motor, year its current condition, how you came across it and perhaps some images?

As I too am somewhat new to this - "gee, I think I will rebuild and restore not only a 48 yr old boat but maybe I'll delve into OB engine repair" thing I suggest you post a message asking others - such as the professor, Billr and the group of experts just might pipe in on the subject - it's amazing how much terrific advice, feedback and encouragement comes from this group of enthusiasts.

Post what info you have and lets get you started

best,

Matthew

Mathew and All,

I'll take pictures of the engine this weekend and post them here to ask for help from all you guys.

I bought this engine from a person on Craigslist, who said he bought it from a collector, who always kept the engine inside. From the look at it, it seems extremely clean and never been beaten up, but there are a few wires not connected. It does not seem blocked at all. I was thinking of buying it and restore it on an antique boat, but has not had a chance to work on it.

Thanks,
Hy