TOPIC: 67 - 60 HP v-4 Model info .??

GANG: I briefly looked at a original rig during a 41 degree rain storm. It has a Johnson , all Green lower housing . TWO lever shift box , Harbor master. 60 hp model . Serial #'s were on the small clamp transom bracket , did not write. . Neighbor (assisting in estate sale ) said maybe foot issue , that why parked a few years.
. Rear decal say " Super Quiet " also ELECTRIC . Does that mean sales pitch for starting & charging.? . I recall lots of bad press for some Electric SHIFT models, but do not recall what years those are. ??

. Comments , pro & Con . I am really after the boat, but would check out the fuel pump diaphram or try to run while all connected to transom . It would display / judge well with orig unit , as I have 1984 ski boat I/O for picnic neighbors.
THANKS

Being you said it had a two lever control box makes me beleive it is the reg shift model. Check and see if there are two control cables going to the motor besides the electrical cable.And yes. I believe the word "Electric" means electric start and charging unit. A foot issue could be alot of things. Leaky seals. Bad clutch dog "jumping out of gear or jerking action that feels like you hit a log. or bad gears. These old V-4 60s are tough motors.
If the price is right for you grab it.

It has a small charging unit.The 60 HP never came with electric shift.

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Actually there is nothing wrong with " electric shift "

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they were super units, that often suffered due to ignorance and neglect.

I have the Evinrude version of that engine (Sportfour). It has been a great motor. I prefer the manual shift, and it appears the one you are looking at may be a LU swap, or it could be a rebuilt unit with zinc-chromate primer on it (recommended for painting aluminum).

The Sportfour pushes my 17' MFG deep V to 30MPH. It(mine)is rather slow out of the hole.. but it is powerful. The v4's are thirsty critters.

Electric does indeed mean electric-start, and it should have a stator/rectifier charging system.

It is easy to work on.. setting points, and keeping the carb clean and in-tune.

This ? may be directed at 69fabuglas or anyone else, not trying to hijack thread. I will be looking at a 16' Laurel boat,no seats, no floor and small hole in it. Comes with trailer and what I THINK I am primarily after a 1964 Sportfour that was his Gramps[r.i.p.] outfit and was winterized when last used two years ago according to grandson.Will strip and scrap boat then sell the trailer to cover cost of setup.Now I have a "new" 1967 MFG Westy and acquired a nice 1973 50hp Merc inline four that I was thinking about putting on her.I am also heavily considering throwing the more period correct Sportfour. What would be the better fit and look better on her? Gas guzzling is not a big deal as this will be a cruise boat for me not a everyday runner.Huge difference in weight? Reliability, both will be gone over witha fine tooth comb.Top speed I would think would be a bit more with the Sportfour,any suggestions?

I don't think there will be much top-end difference in the Sportfour and Merc. The Merc should be better on gas.. and the overall performance difference would be negligible.
As far as "vintage appearance"... few people could tell you the '73 Merc isn't the right "vintage" for that boat.
It's like a girlfriend... when you are 20 and she's 14...lookout!, but when you are 56 and she's 50... it's time to go for a ride.

We also have a '67 Westfield-Regal..and for a cruising boat, the 60 sportfour is adequate.. but I've always wanted a better holeshot for skiing. The 60 just ain't enough on that hull.

I'd really like to put a Merc-700 stack on it.

All said and done- either motor will be just fine for cruising.

Thanks guys.: Brought home the shed supply of inventory parts, / seats today. So really a go for this 17 1/2 ft rig. Extra head gaskets, spare prop & cone. See a new small belt drive. Guess there is a distributer very similar to the Merc Mark 55's.??
MIGHT try & drop the lower Foot Friday & take to mechanic over the holidays.??
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The distributor ( battery power ) on the V-4 60 HP is much easier to work on than a Mark 55 magneto.

Well per usuall with me I read someone elses post about how they put a WTB add on Craigs. So I posted up and received 3 responses in less than 24 hours. Funny thing was I had put down 1960-80 50-70 hp Merc and the first call the guy has a 1967 65 with controls which is what I really wanted, at the right price. Same year as boat and more ponies than the 73 50hp that was waiting to be hung. That one will go on the hunting boat.One guy had some nice sounding older models kicking around and gave me a name of a oldtimer that loves working on the vintage Mercs and according to him he is very reasonable,nice.Third guy has a 68 but no controls and wanted more money, so I told him if the 67 does not work out I will give him a call.The 64 sportfour is just so big looking and does not have the WOW factor as the chromed out mini tower of power will have.Kind of like the cars today that mostly look like they came out of the same mold with all the plastic VS the 50's and 60's chromed fin babys.

HEAT WAVE here today at 53 degrees in sun, so went towards city & spent afternoon at the boat. About 15 minutes to get tub/ Cowl off the v-4 . VERY clean yellow insulation inside housing. One need to push forward some , before lifting upwards. .Got oil in cyls . Able to easy rotate flywheel with the white pull ROPE.

.Almost got the lower Foot off, 8 bolts quite easy , housing seperate, BOTH shift rod covers off, BUT the deep 10mm bolt was recessed even for a Deep socket. Bolt had the slot in top so tried a screw-driver & 1/2 of the head , broke right off. ! Looks like engine can bed raised some for cav plate to bottom hull. Is this MID- Section a extension . 2nd set of bolts about 4 or 5 inches spacer Housing .?? THANKS.
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Yes that is a 5" extension or spacer.I am no Johnyrude pro but I highly doubt that 10mm bolt or anything else on that motor is metric.So did you get the shift shaft coupler bolt removed?

No metric stuff on that motor.

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If there is a piece of the bolt left in the connector it will have to be drilled out carefully.

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If it has the long shift rod extention you need to be careful as they are expensive to buy new.

Model #is VXHL - 13 A . Rig still located about 18 miles from home & no access to electricity. . So surgery will have to wait till
tow out. My portable tool box had the large socket set that only went as Small as 7/16 inch . The 1/4inch drive socket set is metric,
So just a overlap,same wrench spacing for a 3/8 head bolt / wrench or a 10mm socket/ wrench.. Should have wrote 3/8 " above post.(OR unless prior mechanic. put in slotted head screw.!)

. Some sort of a EZ out , or try weld tip of nut to grab socket,( J-B Weld epoxy.?) drill .? etc... Yes opening tricky as the bolt about 4 inches inside maybe a 3" by 2 " opening..cavity. Three sides of the head still attached. Other three side / half SPLIT at screw driver slot.

Best to try getting rid of the remaining piece of the head.

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Then try and drill the bolt ( less than 0.200" ) and you may find that it will spin thru the connecter. There is a notch in the shift rod , thus the bolt must come out.

The bronze shift rod connector has 2 bolts, an upper and a lower. Only one needs to be fully removed to seperate the upper and lower shift rods. In the future, only remove one of the bolts when servicing the lower unit. I always pull the lower bolt. Those bolts are stainless steel. Some had a 3/8" head, others were 5/16" . Drilling out the bolt will be very difficult, drilling it straight will be be nearly impossible. If you have no alternative, cut the bronze link or the lower shift rod with a Sawzall.

It has been a great motor. I prefer the manual shift, and it appears the one you are looking at may be a LU swap, or it could be a rebuilt unit with zinc-chromate primer on it.....