This one is my personal engine. I got it from a man that was a competitor of my Dad down in the Keys when I was little. He owned a Gale dealership and my dad owned the Johnson dealership in Islamorada. He passed away a few years ago and his widow asked for help dispensing with his outboard collection. As a gift she gave me this engine but I paid her for it anyway.
It wears parts from other engines and there were many isssues with it when I got it but have worked through all that I have come across so far and the engine will finally get run on the Suwanee at the end of this month at our antique outboard meet up there.
The boat is a 1960 and has a new transom, stringers, floor and fresh paint. The seat base is a new aluminum fabricated part and new interior was made for the boat.
The complete wiring harness on the powerhead, to the junction box, and to the dash is hand fabricated as I wanted no old harness/wire issues to occur.
Here is a video done when I was doing the initial running of the engine after going through all systems.
Yes there has been progress. Slow but it is coming along.
Have had it out a couple times now. Was seriously over propped the first time. Had a starter issue that same day so back to the house.
Second run better with a smaller prop but too deep in the water. Back to the house again.
Raised the engine and waiting on the weather to run again and see where we are.
Sorry for the late reply. Keep in mind that an overboard water indicator is just that. It will indicate that your pump is doing something but is not meant to indicate that your pump is or may be in perfect operating condition.
You will want to install the nipple before the water goes into the thermostat. One place to do this is on the back of the exhaust cover. From there you will want to route your hose up and over the cylinder head so that the stream will indicate that you have sufficient water pressure to completely fill the block. From there the normal OMC nipple is installed into a hole you will drill into the lower cowling.
Tell ya' what. I am about to do another overboard indicator installation. I found a fitting I am going to install into an existing hose on an early V4. Will add this to this thread so it can help folks.
I wait with bated breath...Pappy, I haven't forgotten all the help you give out here, nor have I forgotten my desire to make you some '60 Starflite badges....but I have to still make them! This Victorian house just consumed me all spring, summer, and fall. I am going to carve out a little downtime this winter so maybe I'll tackle them then. Hope you are well!
Well......it is going to be a bit longer! Since my last post I found yet another 1960 75hp. This one is a Jonson. Color will match the boat a bit closer than the Evinrude will.
Gathering parts to short shaft this one. Wont be long. Engine is in good shape and came with lots of stuff with it such as wiring harness, junction box, prop, spare parts including a NIB distributor cap and coil. Always nice to have. More spares as well.
By doing this instead of robbing parts from the Evinrude I can change engines in less than an hour depending on what we want on the boat.
I did! Also found a couple of other issues once the engine was able to be started and run long enough to troubleshoot. I will have the time to correct them after the Johnson goes on the transom. Lesa needs a ride......been too long!
Broken reed on #3 cylinder. I can count on one hand the # of broken reeds I have come across in my decades of doing this. Thankfully the piece was found in an exhaust port and zero damage to the cylinder.
Possible damage to #4 rod. Was diagnosing #4 cylinder being lazy and not really responding to mixture changes compared to #2 and ended up pulling the intake manifold. Yes, I already knew I had a reed issue but continued to run and troubleshoot this cylinder while I had the chance. Found that water had apparently sat in the drain area on that cylinder and the small reed operated drain was stuck as a result. Since the accumulated fuel had nowhere to go it got run through #4. Not knowing how long water sat in this area or how far it migrated I pulled the reed plate off as well. Remember #3? It had to come off anyway. After removal I was able to see #4 rod/bearing and decided it warrants a look to see if there is damage vs. just running it and taking a chance.
These are super easy engines to work on anyway so an inspection/repair in this area won't take very long.
As an example, I probably had the intake and reed plate off this engine in a total of about ten minutes work time from fullly assembled.
Eperot - Here is the picture I promised you. This is by far the easiest way.
I got rid of the white tie-wraps! Did not have black over at the warehouse.
Note that this is on the Evinrude that had the reed issue. I went through that engine and updated a ton of stuff before putting it back together. It is now back on the G3 again and doing well.