TOPIC: My civic dutyy fullfilled

Greetings all. My first post in the JEGO forum.
Yesterday I was off loading some scrap at the 'local scrap yard'. While waiting my turn I was checking out all the massive dumpsters full of stuff. One was over flowing with engine parts...Blocks, heads, etc. Perched on top of pile was this engine. I asked if theyu would sell it. Sure! 50 cents a pound.

I pulled if off the pile (without killing myself) and looked it over. Looked complete, but obviously had been sitting outside somewhere. Everything is stiff opn it, and it appeared seized. The pull handle wouldnt budge, I couldnt move the flywheel (I think I had it in nuetral). It appeared complete.

I thought about. But...I'm a merc guy (1962 Merc 1000, thank you very much), Ive got enough junk in my shop that I am going to 'restore'. I left with out it.

But as you suspect, I couldn't do it. I couldnt let a complete motor get shredded. Two hours later I was back, and at 68 pounds, took home a likely seized motor I know noting about for 34 bucks.

Now that I have it home it appears to be quite complete. But it does appear to be seized up. Haven't had a chance to give it a close look, so dont know if it is the lower, the head, etc etc..

So can anyone tell me where to find a listing of serial numbers/ This one is 15012-29454

Picture to follow

the pictures..... hopefully...

1954 Fastwin 15hp. Excellent classic Evinrude, parts readily available, some ignition parts are even at most NAPA parts stores if a dealer isn't nearby. Needs a pressure tank, or convert to a fuel pump. To-do list: 1) get it unstuck. 2) pull the flywheel to see if any ignition parts need replacing, usually just coils. Points can be cleaned. 3) water pump impeller 4) rebuild/clean carb 5) change gear lube. Get it running good, you might never part with it- like a stray dog that steals your heart.

Thanks for the info! My plan exactly...not likely to delve into her till fall. but it will be a fun to see if I can resurrect her. Goiunbg to call her "scraper".

One thing you can do now is pull the plugs and lay the motor with the spark plug hole up and squart some trans fluid in each cyl this will halp to losen up the rings and pistons.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Excellent idea. Transfluid? Is there an advantage of trans fluid over something like PB Blaster?

Don't know if there is a differnance but it works for me. Plus it give a good lub to everything. I got a motor from a guy that was frozen and I mean frozen and got it unstuck and now it runs. ompression on it was 60 and 110 after getting it unstuck. So got it running and now it 110 in both cyls. It was stuck so tight I thought I was going to break the cank but she came lose.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

well as luck would have it I have a bottle of tranny fluid...i'll give a shot..

When you pull the plugs, note the position of the pistons. If one is up and the other down, add fluid sparingly to the down piston or it will just run out the ports into the crankcase and exhaust.

If it gets in the crank case it wont hurt a thing. I will just lub and thing in the case like rods and main bearing. When I get the motors lose I flush out the motor with fuel and that take most of the trans fluid with it. That motor was run on 30wt motor oil when new.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Thanks gents! Going to be setting it up tomorrow and will report in. by the way, will these controls work with this motor?

cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/evinrude-johnson-gale-outboard-controls-vintage-Bosun-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ290462348456QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear#ht_500wt_1182

Good luck with that motor- I've got one that's almost identical, though I am not sure of the year... I don't have mine running at the moment, but it's intact- It's on the project list filed under 'someday'

-Andrew

Ok guys, took the bonnet off (more dirt and nesting stuff fell out). Vac'd it off. Looks to be totally complete. got familiar with where everything is. WD 40 to loosen up all the carb/choke etc linkage, and everything else I could find that looks like it should move. Pulled the plugs. Both oil and soot fouled (badly actually) so I bet she wasn't running well last time she was. Set her on her face and filled the cylinders with PB Blaster.

So now come the first in a round of rookie questions about rudes...

The lower cylinder is far enough down in it's stroke that it was not filling up, so I assume it was running out of one of the ports. But it was not running out of the motor anywhere. Where was it going? Cranks case?

I've read that these motors utilized presure tanks. But this one looks to have a fuel pump on it. Here's a pic. What is it?



next, what are these? Air intakes for the carb? Is there supposed to be filters in there of some sort?




And finally, can I take the pul start mechanism off without mass quantities of springs and claws flying all over the place?

If I can unstick her, I'll to check the compression....and if that is ok, then I'll rebuild her

Yes that is a fuel pump and the other thing is a air silecer. NO air filter on outboards unless some of the realy new ones have them. Yes you can take the pull start off should be 3 screws or bolts. If it has compression release you have 2 screws on that flat bar sicking out the back side of it. Before you pull the pull start off you can pry useing the post the mount it on the teeth on the flywheel with a big screw driver.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

I had a frozen 16HP Kohler that I was able to free up using PB Blaster in the cylinders... and using my air compressor through the spark-plug hole. I have a rubber-tipped blowgun that works perfect for that...
I just alternated holes until she broke free. 175psi works wonders...

that's an excellent idea - the compressed air should drive the PB into the rings.

One more question for now. The reasons i want to take the pull start mechanism off is hoping for access to the top of the crank shaft. On my Merc, with the top hat off, I can put a wrench on the nut that holds the fly wheel on. That nut screws onto the end of the crank shaft. I am hoping for something similar so that I can use a wrench and leverage to break her free.

But...I guess I'll have to let her sit for a few days before trying to spin her....patience, patience....

The reason I said about leaving the pull start on was you can pry in one direction and then do it in the other. You will only be able to turn in one direction with a wrench on the nut. The air will work if both pistons are sitting half way. Other wise you can only put air to one to do any good
Mike aka pathfinderz
PS
One other way is you take the guts out a spark plug and weld a greas fittaing on it and then put your greas gun to it and start pumping. If I remember right you can get over a 1000lbs pressure that way

A strap wrench is very handy for working the flywheel back and forth.

Here is a digram on how to make a strap wrench.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Excellent idea..
You could probably bolt a "motorcycle strap" to the board- and make one that is easily adjustable...

Greetings all.

I was able to put the motor in gear (forward I think), and could spin the prop shaft around (against the direction of forward). So I believe that the lower is not frozen.

Before going forward, I want to make sure I have the motor in neutral.

The shift/throttle handle is lined up with "shift" on the handle. I assume that is the position for neutral (the shift handle is very hard to move, and so I am not trying to in worry of breaking something, just leaving it in the "Shift" position.

There is a lever on the side for the motor that is obviously the shift linkage. It has three notches, and I am assuming that the center one is neutral. It is currently set on the center notch. Am I correct this is neutral?

I left the flywheel on and was attempting to spin the motor with a socket and cheater bar on the flywheel nut. When doing so, the nut was over tightening, and I was afraid I'd damage or completely strip the threads on the end of the crank. And of course, trying to rock the motor the other way, the nut would just come off. So no more of that.

I like the idea of strap wrench on the fly wheel. I actually have a few of those. Will give it a try this afternoon but want to make sure I have the motor in Neutral.

I want to be careful not to damage anything. Though she's stuck bad, she's complete, the skeg is good, and the bonnet is dent free. So she's a motor worth rebuilding.

Here's a picture of my "other" motor I resurrected...

If you put the shifter in gear, (yes,the center is neutral) you shouldn't be able to spin the prop, unless the shear pin sheared. The shift handle will be hard to engage if the dogs (lugs) are lined up. Check the shear pin first. The shift position on the throttle is a lower RPM setting to shift into gear without hurting anything. Like making sure your Merc is idling before shifting.

Well, I gave it the college try with my strap wrenches and I can tell she is locked big time, after more than a week soaked in PB. More troubling is that I peered into the lower cylinder and was aghast to see bits of nesting material in there. Vac'd most of it out. Wish I had looked first because now what is in there, which isn't much, is saturated in PB Blaster. I suspect what ever varmints made a home of her may have crawled into the cylinder from the exhaust port. OR maybe what I am seeing is just what fell into the cylinder through the exhaust port.

Anyway. More PB into the cylinders and I am setting it aside for now. But for planning purposes, a few questions:

I'm thinking I'll just tear her down for a rebuild. Are the cylinder head and water jacket gaskets still available? Or are they e-bay items to search for. How about cylinders and rings? I suspect e-bay and such for these as well. What of carb rebuild kits and such (I would suspect kits should be available for these).

Where is the exhaust port located for the lower cylinder? I want to be able to set the motor in such a position that I can keep PB in that cylinder so that it has months to work it's way around the rings.

Thanks for the help guys.

In the picture of the water pump the cover under and the one next ot it you can take off and look into the lower part of the cylender. Also a good place to put some more PB blaster. Now if you realy want to get all the info on your motor and were to find part and gaskets Try the guys over at AOMCI. They can ever get digrams of the motor for you and parts numbers that you will need to order anything for it. Some of those guys there have worked these motor all their life. Here is the link and ask what you need to know. This is were I go for info on all my old motors and I only have about 40 of them.
www.aomci.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?board=askamember
Mike aks pathfinderz1

Well four weeks of PB blaster in the cylinders and she still stuck tight. Is it possible that the components under the flywheel are fused to the flywheel as well, adding another sticking point? I made an initial stab at pulling the F-Wheel but it is also stuck on so I put some PB on that as well at the tip of the crank.

Would it hurt anything of I blasted (haha) PB Blaster all up underneath the flywheel?