TOPIC: ANOTHER '59 'fat 50' being worked on...

By coincidence, I started working on my 1959 'Fat 50' this week, too... I've got a few ??'s, and will probably come up with more. I didn't want to hijack another thread, so I started this one.

I've already fixed one or two 'issues' with the motor. The recoil starter wouldn't engage. When I took it apart, the starter pawl and friction spring were missing, so I replaced them with some from my parts motor. That's all working fine now.

The next issue I have is the reverse lock. The cable snapped at some point. A previous owner had removed the serial/model number plate to try to get at it, but never fixed it. Is it tough to repair? or should I just ignore it?

I'm going to do a compression test next, before I put any more time and money into it. What's the easiest way to jump the starter? I don't need to go through the control box or anything like that, do I?? I've never worked with a motor this old (never anything with a magneto), and don't want to screw anything up!

After that, it's the carb, and the impeller. Let's hope it all works- That motor is a great match for the Glasspar!

-Andrew

To jump the start just use jumper cabels and hook the postive clamp to the post on the starter. Then when you ready to spin the motor just hit the nagtive to anywhere on the motor or do it the other way around and hook your clamps up first to the motor and make conectiong at the battrie bucause you will have it spark and if you do it at the motor you will leave burn spots.
I hope you did take the starter apart and lub the bushing at both ends. Most of the time you will find them dry and they will ware fast with out lub.
Mike aka pathfinderz1
PS
Don't ever use any lub on the bendix on the starter.

Thanks, Mike. I haven't turned it yet- I'll take the starter off first and lube it up. I'm sure that the service manual I have has the procedure in it.

you have to take the bendix off first then the 2 long bolt that hold it togather. While you have it apart you might take some real fine wet sand paper and polish up the armature and check the brushs. The only thing that can be fun is getting the bushs back in place and over the armature. I have done a lot of them and its realy not to hard. A little lub and clean up sure makes a lot of differtance in the out put of the starter.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Bad news- I won't be spending any time or money on this motor!

I did a compression check today- And it's not good. Cylinder one had NO compression, 2 only 65, 3 65, and 4 just under 90. Doesn't sound like this motor is going to be running anytime soon.


Time to look for a replacement!

-Andrew

With the motor sitting for some time the rings some times will stick. Here is something you might try before you give up on the motor. Lay the motor down and squart some trans fluie in each cyl and let it sit over night. Then with the plugs out spin it good with the starter for a while. I had one with low compression and it came back good after doing this.
Don't trash it till your sure its no good.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Thanks, Mike. I'll give it a shot- I've got nothing to loose.

-Andrew

You're talking about ATF, right Mike? My dad was an old trucker, used to run a quart of ATF in one of the diesel fuel tanks every couple month or so, said it cleaned up the fuel injectors, etc.. Interesting you thought of that! Worth a shot Andrew, I agree.

Andrew, good luck with the compression. I too have a '59 50hp so im paying attention.
Mike, I wish I had your motor ability, good call........
I have heard about using marvil mystery oil, Mike

EDIT: Okay im a retard, mines a 58 not a 59. Will I ever remember this???

About 10 years ago I didn't know a thing about outboards till I started working on them. My first motor was a 1940 5hp johnson and that started it. The guys over at AOMCI sure helped me when I needed info on motors and the how to's. You can lean a lot by reading the posts there. I was given a 1960 Johnson 40hp that was frozen up and it was frozen. So pulled the plugs and pured some kerosen in the cyls and let it sit over night. The went ot work on trying to get it to turn over. Finly it came lose. Then went through everything. Squrted fuel in the cyls and down thae carbs. Put the plugs back in and hit the starter and got her to fire. O before trying to fire it checked compression and had a 100 in one cyl and 60 in the other after getting it to fire and run for a while shut her down and checked compression and both were 110. Now the guy that gave me the motor is mad because I now have a good running motor.
Just the fun you can have working on these.
Mike aka pathfinderz1

Yes give it a go.
My 73' 65HP had 100 100 80 when I first tested.
After I got it running. 100 105 100.
I am on my second season now.

Kids (2) got up on skis for the first time last Friday with this engine I almost junked.

I tried soaking it overnight, then gave it a couple good spins (20 or so). Judging from the color of the oil that dripped out, there was a LOT of carbon in there- and probably still a lot more. I saw an improvement of at least 10 lbs in each cyl, EXCEPT #1, there was still zero there. So, I pulled the head off the Stb side, and-



Looks like the gasket is blown.

The gasket is only like $14, On Ebay, I THINK it's the Sierra 18-2955 if I did my research correctly.

Is it worth spending any money on?? Should I do BOTH heads while I'm at it?

Just from a visual inspection, other than being FILTHY with carbon (as you can see in the photo), the cylinder doesn't look damaged or worn.

I SUSPECT that the boat was probably parked when the gasket blew, I'd imagine that cut someone's day on the water short. I don't have any history on it, though, other than it was in a field in North Carolina when the P.O. bought it...

-Andrew

You can also get that head gasket here also.
www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_search.php?part_num=18-2955&x=19&y=7
you can also get it at NAPA now that you have the number of the gasket.
Mike aka pathfinderz1.
PS
Clean the heads up real good. put her back togather and see what happens

The gaskets are on order- Hopefully that's the only major thing I'll need

In the mean time, I'm going to clean everything up... There's a LOT of carbon. Any tips on getting it clean?? I've got some Sea Foam in an aerosol can, I might give that a shot...

-Andrew

Most of the corbon you can scrap off. I use a dull screeww drive. Now here is a big thing do you have a good stright edge. When you get the face of the head good and clean check it with the stright edge to see if it is worped. you can get by with up to .005 any mnore and you might want to replace it. You can mill it down if you have something good and flat like a heavy peice of glass or steel. You get some 80 grit sand paper and sand the face on that. I have a file that is 6ins wide and 14 long the works good for this. Don't know were I ever picked it up but it sure has come in handy.
Mike aka pathfinderz1