TOPIC: Water cooling tubes

1958 Johnson RDS-20.
Did a complete rebuild of all the externals, new coils, points, condensers, new plug wires, new everything and impeller. Got it running again and it got hot so I shut 'er down right away. Me thinks I might have screwed up the cooling pipes (there are two of them) when putting the lower back together. Anyone have and easy/clever way of lining these tubes up with the rubber grommets before bolting up?? I'm working alone so no one else is around to hold a flashlight or anything else. It is a long shaft with the goofy extension piece I named SOB.

You are starting with the 5" extension piece "SOB" bolted to the mid-section, ?yes?

If "SOB" is bolted to the lower unit, it's just about impossible to get things lined up properly.

Unless the water tubes are way out-of-whack, they should be very close to going in the rubber grommets as you insert the lower unit. Hold a flashlight in your mouf, then you'll have 2 hands to work wif!!!

Use a thin screwdriver to guide the tube to the grommet as you're pushing the lower unit upwards. If the tubes are way far off, you'll need to bend 'em a bit so they're closer to going-in without a lot of special attention.

BTW I've had issues with these not wanting to run in the barrel, when they pump fine on the lake.

To verify a water-pumping problem, you can pull the thermostat housing cover and 'stat out, leave the cover off, and fire 'er up.

If water doesn't come ripping out the hole right away, something is amiss below.

If you do get water out of there, try reinstalling the 'stat cover (without 'stat) while the motor is running. If the motor starts to falter, or quits pumping water after a bit, it probably has a blown head gasket.

What is happening is, the exhaust leaking by the head gasket is blowing into the cooling passages and overcoming water pressure, forcing all the cooling water out of the block.

Hopefully you don't have those problems, or any more reasons to call your "SOB" JohnRude some other nasty names!!!

HTH & G'luck.........ed

Ed, I did the tiny grease covered l=e=d flashlight in the mouf and used a skinny long shaft screwdriver. I drooled a lot. yes the 5 incher is bolted to the mid section, couldn't see s

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the other way.

I'm going to pull the lower again on Wednesday to double check everything. While it's off I'll run a hose up it's butt and run a flush through it. I'm thinking of using a length of stiff copper wire, stripped 14 gauge and making a shepherds hook looking thing to help manipulate the copper pipes. I can then pull the wire out if I'm lucky enough to get them in place. I think I might have pulled the upper(s) out while trying to the the lowers in.


UPDATE... The stars/moon/sun were in alignment Wednesday morning. Took the motor outside on the driveway and removed the LU again. found that one of the tubes bottom grommet was crushed into its housing. Managed to save it in place. Found a trick...take a file and bevel the ends of the copper tubes, grease 'em up and they will slide right into the grommets. Only moufed the light once, sunshine was a big help.

Water pump and cooling work great now, gushes water out the exhaust. Next problem is only one cylinder running, and water in gas.


Would the engine run if I accidentally had the plug wires reversed?

When I installed the new coils etc. I didn't see any indication of which was which. Might be the reason only one cyl is hitting.

How can I adjust the timing to line up the marks?

No It won't start if they are backward.

What type of outboard do you have?

Sorry 58 Johnson. Make sure your keyway has a key in the crankshaft. It won't fire if you spun it or forgot to install it. You need to find out what degree your motor is set at ...IE 5 degrees before TDC ETC. Hook a timing light to the number one cylinder and adjust your timing using the throttle advance arm until the factory timing is achieved. You may have to put it in the water and stand next to the boat. I have found that to be the most effective way for myself.