TOPIC: Thinking about selling... :(

So I got my little G3 out for the first time in two years. Started right up..ran like a scared wet rabbit...

My question is how would you approach this. The boat has new floors and new transom, newer windshield and new seats. Motor has new lower unit seals and water pump, new thermostats. Remote controller has been rebuilt. Motor has functioning tilt/trim and also a new wiring harness from the motor to the controller. Trailer has new springs.

The boat looks pretty good but certainly not perfect. Has been repainted but guy did an amateurish job. Boat would be an excellent candidate for further restoration or use it as is...

The rub is the boat has a small leak that I can NOT find!!! In about two hours of running it will take an about a gallon of water. Have resealed the sponsons under the trim and crawled under the hull till my knees hurt! Can't find it....

Seems like it might be hard to sell a boat that leaks....Also what do you think this rig might be worth?

Thanks,
Kerry

Where are you finding the water, in the inner hull or on the deck (under the splash well)?

Water is in the inner Hull. boat has access under the well where previous owner put a sump pump.

Today I tried filling the inner hull with water... waited..waited..waited.. no leak anywhere.....strike one..

(note that water will 'appear' with the boat sitting still.. even with the front on shore..)

So... took another survey of the bottom... can't find anything wrong BUT while crawling around under the boat at the transom,right under the motor mounting plate I spotted a circular crack. (see the picture) It looks like the P.O. filled the old transom drain hole when he replaced the transom.. maybe.. that spot lives below the waterline with this heavy 85hp Johnson on the boat. I don't know if water can get between the exterior wall and the transom but I am going to fix that and cross my fingers..

I will need to remove and reinstall the four mounting bolts and would like to know what I can use to reseal the bolts. It looks like the P.O. used some kind of silicone that remained somewhat flexible...

Second picture..for some reason it would only accept one at a time..

What the heck..one more

I can't tell where the first picture is taken, but if it's in your transom I think you have found your source. I would say yes to the likelihood of water migrating from a breach anywhere in your transom down to the inner hull. It doesn't take much.

As to what to use to reseal the mounting bolts, it seems like there are as many opinions as there are boaters. 3M 4200/5200 seems like a favorite choice.

www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/267271-no-silicone-below-waterline-why-not.html#b

Good luck!

Good looking rig Kerry, please think long and hard before selling the ole girl!

I know the season is short up there, but I'd recommend NOT leaving her parked at the dock when not in use. (Put it on the trailer, in a boat shed, whatever you can to keep her as dry as possible.) Do you have somewhere you can work on it under cover, to let the boat dry out when you do attempt the repair? It's hard to get them dried out completely, but you really don't want to seal it back up with everything wet to the core IMHO.

There are some awesome G3 experts here who can chime in and help with exact info, just wanted to drop in and give some encouragement as well.

Does it come with a trailer and an engine? Need specs on both.

Mark, the G3 lives on it's trailer...only sees water when it's 'heading out to sea' so to speak..

Seabuddy, The engine is a 1978 85hp Johnson V4 with power tilt/trim. It's a strong runner with good compression. Lower end has been resealed, water pump and thermostats replaced.

As for the trailer, that's a bit of an unknown. It's a Little Dude tilt, as far as I know. Has new springs. Wheels are equipped with bearing buddies. I believe the hitch has been replaced as it is welded to the trailer. Tires are pretty good.

Pulled the motor mount bolts. The upper ones looked pretty good. The lowers? Not so much. Looks like they have been leaking for some time now. Maybe that was contributing to my water problems.

If it hadn't suddenly turned to FALL around here I would have put the boat in the water for a try out... too COLD!

Rut Row, there's at least part of the problem for sure! I don't see any signs of sealant anywhere, and I sure wouldn't re-use those bolts.

I prefer stainless steel, but you have to remember to put anti-seize on the threads before you run the nuts on or they WILL gall.

so.........

Repaired the area on the transom pictured above...patch held for about 2 hours on the lake..and the area popped back out.

Since the transom is covered with aluminum diamond plate I decided to repair that area again, then cover it with a small diamond plate 'patch'. I drilled a hole thru the center of the circular damaged area and placed one bolt though to the inside of the transom. Covered the back of the diamond plate with 5200 to be SURE of the seal... It looks and is very strong..

So all is well right? Nope. Took the boat out today and..more water..... ugh.

Came home dejected and ready to throw in the towel... Decided to try filling the inner hull one last time with water. For two hours nothing... then, under the center deck, center of the starboard side of the hull, water!!!!! Actually quite a bit of water..and not just one spot, two leaks. Why it took over two hours to show up is anyone's guess. (see picture)

Better question is why didn't I SEE that hole during one of my many inspections????

In any case how would suggest I fix the hole(s) There is no access from inside the boat so whatever I do will be limited to working under it..

Thanks,
Kerry

Thanks for the power details.

I agree with Mark and would try and use and keep the g3. I'm guessing you dont use it cause of the leaks? Most that sell theres want another later and wish they didn't sell, just my opinon? Wonder how ya dry out the bilge?

Great you got the transom leaks fixed, the transom must have had a lack of bond in that area or the Anchor broke the skin loose, ya think? a guess...

I had a leak on the port side of g3 but above waterline, there was enough flex when i washed the boat with soap I saw slight bubbles where the glass was cracking. I let it dry for a week and pushed the skin from outside, working laminating resin in from the inside. ... As you only have access from the outside If it were mine I'd get the leak area about a foot away from the bunks. I'd use a sanding block and go beyond the leak spot removing all paint and to gel-coat, maybe try soaping and pushing up with your thumb, might show something? If its easy to expose the glass a bit its best ( dont sand off the glass just expose it) and if dry, work lam-resin in with a hard roller then a very light glass cloth if there previous damage, feather the edges and coat with clear resin. I did something like this to my keel in front where the glass actually cracked but layed 3 layers of cloth larger to smaller pieces to taper it then added white to clear resin, wasn't going to buy gel-coat for a 18" area ya never see Hope you get better advice, I dont trust mine

PS. I didn't get lots of water coming in bow keel crack unless moving but under speed the water was forced in and almost sunk my g3:-( Took at least a half hour to drain the bilge.