TOPIC: West Bend value question

I know the value of a particular motor is strictly up to the buyer and seller. I am thinking about a 50 hp '65 WB long shaft to put (back) on a '66 runabout I recently picked up, but I have no clue what a fair price would be to offer for it.

Are WBs similar in cost/value to similar age/size OMCs? Or are they rarer and more valuable...or, conversely, rarer and harder to service so less valuable?

I know coils are sure a lot more for the motor in question...by around $100 more each, so I am nervous. With harder to get parts I would think the motor cost might be a little lower due to less demand.

Any thoughts from the WB/Chrysler crowd?

Thanks.

Less value than a J/E due to parts costs and slightly lesser popular reputation. Some (few) BRP dealers will still work on an older J/E, but find anyone that will work on a West Bend!!!

Thanks, Kerry. That is what I thought.

Anyone have a differing opinion?

What condition is the motor in? The value depends on things like does it run? Any recent maintainance? Look like a gem or an afterthought? Comes with controls? Understand, the West Bend is the predecessor to Chrysler/Force, so they are pretty simple mechanically to work on. If you can do basic repairs and maintainance on cars, motorcycles, lawnmowers, etc. you can probably learn that motor pretty easily. Parts are harder to find, but not necessarily impossible. This site is an excellent resource for advice and help when you feel like pulling your hair out (We've all been there). It all boils down to your comfort level and what the motor checks out to be. Personally, I would consider $400 for a good runner and about $150-200 for a decent not seized project. Just my lengthy (sorry about that) opinion. Its worth what you paid for it.

I picked up a early 70's Chrysler (almost exactly like the early motor you are looking for) for 150$. Complete, about a 7.5 in the looks department, the harder to find short shaft. All I had to do was clean the breakers and set them (breaker driven CDI). And it ran. Oh, got the control box and cables, but alas no electric cable or switch (in the control box). In the interest of full disclosure, I did have an in with a local club 'guy' that wheels and deals with large buyouts of motors. Other wise I might have had to pay twice that.
If you are going to run older motors you have to DIY maintenance and repair. Join the local AOMCI club, those guys can be a lot of help.

Here's an update from the OP. My scout troop went to summer camp about 20 miles from the motor, so on my way up to spend the last night & day with them I swung by to get a better look at it. Came away with the motor and all controls for $150. Just got it onto a stand in the garage a couple days ago. I had a short shaft '35 SSH Johnson on a stand that I made too tall, so in making the new stand I made it a few inches shorter. The new stand was for the "new" motor but ended up being too short for the long shaft. Had to switch the motors between the stands. I'll post a photo or two when I can.

Haven't yet confirmed the compression, but was told it is 115 & 120. Told the starter works. Controls are in good shape and appear to work. Just needs a new key. I'm looking forward to getting around to tinkering with it.

Gotta admit, when I was researching the motor I was worried about the positive ground and the cost of parts. I talked to "Franz" in KS City, MO (Franz Marine) and he advised that I just need to connect red to red and black to black...hope that works. Luckily the other wires are all color coded. Now to try to find out what new parts I need.

Wish me luck on this adventure.

I am fairly sure its negative ground. I have never ran across an outboard with electric start (and generator) that was positive ground. I grant I have not seen them all (I wish) but by the time outboards were getting starters positive ground systems were on the way out for US made stuff.

Sounds like a dope...deal. I hope that WB runs like stink