TOPIC: Off boat storage and rebuild for '65 Merc 1000?

Hello everyone! I'll apologize now for the long post. I have a ton of questions and this is going to be a bit scattered.

I have a '65 Merc 1000 sitting on the back of a '64 18' T&T Breakers. Last time the boat was out in the water was last year. I was having some issues with the motor and never got around to getting the issue resolved.

The motor would idle well but when I eased into the throttle it was really sluggish and slow to get up to RPM. It would manage to build up speed after a few seconds and the RPM would climb as the load on the motor got easier but definitely not the max RPM it was getting to before.

I was told to try the Sea Foam decarbonizing method which I tried. Took it back out to the lake to do so and didn't see much of an improvement. Unfortunately that's how it sat for about a year. Winter came and there was no way to mess with it.

About a week ago I got the boat out of the garage and fired up the Merc. Started immediately and ran great for idle. No way of revving it up to see how it would do. I noticed that the fuel I had been running before might have been mixed wrong (to the tune of 25:1). Could this have caused my issue last year?

Anyways, to the main point of my thread. I have decided to keep the boat out of the water until I get the keelson and majority of the ribs replaced because of dry rot. Because of this I need to remove the motor and will most likely have it sitting on a motor stand for a year or two. Maybe even longer.

Is there anything I can do to test this motor off the boat? Anything I can do while it's off the boat to give it a nice freshening up? I'd like to get a new coat of paint on it and get it running nicely. I'll have time to work on it if needed.

Also, for lifting the motor off the transom I found this lift ring. Would this work on my motor?

Mercury lift ring on Amazon

Thanks in advance for any help. Feel free to help with any of the questions one at a time as I know it's hard answering 10 questions in a single reply

Here's a video from a couple years back while she was running good.

Merc1000 Transom View

The lift ring will work thats exactly the one I purchased through the same people.
They also offer a spacer piece so you can use as a flywheel puller too....they also have those listed on Ebay.

good luck.....

Thanks!

Another question, I've seen a lot of these older Mercury fuel tanks floating around online. They look very cool. I want to pick up a smaller tank for running the motor on the stand. Would these work? Seems like it would be the right size and neat thing to have in the garage to boot. Any way of determining the year of it?

Mercury Gas tank

yes it will work fine it is a keikheafer decal so 60's or earlier.can't see the connecter but the correct one can be had and installed.

becareful here...ensure its rust free....
if your looking for an inexpensive tank Atwood at Farm/Fleet has 3 gal tanks....plastic not worry about rust...small enough to use as a back up tank ...store under a seat or something.

Let me ask you guys another question. This is the first time ever removing a motor for me.

Can you guys give me any tips on the procedure? Looks pretty straight forward but anything that might make it easier would be great!

Have you tried screwing the lifting ring into the flywheel? It's not unusual for those threads to be rusted and corroded from lack of use. You need to make sure they're clean enough for that ring to catch at least 5 or 6 threads, hopefully more. Took me a long time working on mine to get them clean enough to use.

Otherwise it's pretty simple. Unhook the shift and throttle controls, unplug the big electrical connector, unhook the steering mechanism, remove the two lower bolts and finally the clamps and lift her up and off. I use an engine hoist for mine, but a chain hoists work fine too if you have room for them.

Good luck!

Frank

Thanks Frank! That's exactly what I was looking for.

I have not tried installing the lift ring yet. I am still waiting for it to arrive. I must say, I was a bit skeptical at how well the lift ring would even work. That's a lot of weight for just threads on a bolt to be lifting. I plan on using an engine hoist as well.

I know these things are pretty complicated so I wanted to make sure I didn't unhook anything that might reset something or throw a setting off.

How much tuning can you do on these motors while they're off the boat? I'm sure you can't run them up to higher RPMs since there is no load on them. Does it have to be in drive to get into higher rpms? I don't want to be anywhere near a spinning prop. I think I've read you can get a wheel that replaced the prop for bench work?

Sorry for the basic questions. I plan on having the motor on the bench for a long time so I'd like to see what I can do while it's there.

Get a ladder out and check those threads the ring will be fitting into. It's fine thread and big, so don't worry, get it down in there far enough and you'll be all set. I got mine in maybe 2/3 of the way, and that took hours to do.

You can tune them to some degree, but they really need to be in the water to get right. I only put it in gear a few times, and never revved it much over a grand. I just wanted to get it idling okay.

Don't be sorry about asking questions. I still ask a bunch. No need to be shy, and there aren't any stupid questions.

Frank

Did some digging into the motor tonight and have a lot more questions

First off the threads in the flywheel look great. Shot some PB blaster in there while I wait for the lift ring to play it safe.

I took a ton of photos of how it sits right now before doing anything. I'm really not sure where to start when disconnecting the steering and the throttle cables? Here's the MerCruiser control box.



Top view of how the cables are ran



Looks like the top cable would be the throttle linkage and the bottom cable would be for shifting?



I'm also not sure what connection point to disassemble to disconnect the steering.

Looks like it should be connected from here in order to free up the motor and allow it to be removed?



Just as a reference. These are the manusls I have to use. Pretty good information in there but nothing that is really specific. Seems like they try and cover all models with one book.

See attached pictures for instructions.
It would be helpful if better pictures were posted of the way the outer steering cable housing is designed as it looks odd.
Here ya go - hope the pixs help.
Thom

Thom, thank you so much those pictures! That helps tremendously. It seems to make sense. The only question I have is what exactly is the tilt tube? Is that the housing (part of motor mount) that the outer steering cable housing slides in and out of? Looks like one end is the steering cable with the male threads you mentioned to remove. (Starboard side) and the other end is what the steering link attaches to. (Port Side) is that correct?

This is the only other photo that has the outer steering cable housing in it. I can take some more tonight. Any certain parts of it you're wanting to see?

"Is that the housing (part of motor mount) that the outer steering cable housing slides in and out of?"

In a word - yes!

NRummy wrote:

Thanks Frank! That's exactly what I was looking for.

I have not tried installing the lift ring yet. I am still waiting for it to arrive. I must say, I was a bit skeptical at how well the lift ring would even work. That's a lot of weight for just threads on a bolt to be lifting. I plan on using an engine hoist as well.

How much tuning can you do on these motors while they're off the boat? I'm sure you can't run them up to higher RPMs since there is no load on them. Does it have to be in drive to get into higher rpms? I don't want to be anywhere near a spinning prop. I think I've read you can get a wheel that replaced the prop for bench work?

Sorry for the basic questions. I plan on having the motor on the bench for a long time so I'd like to see what I can do while it's there.

NRummy:

You will not have a problem with the ring so don't be worried. I used it lift a 1500 off a boay I got...was a piece of cake.
As far as running ot test runs U will need a water source either way...i have built a few motor stands so I can wheel to door or over a drain to be able to run....

Ask questions there is a lot of resources here to help you.....by the way thank you everyone.

I'm trying to be as prepared as I can be. This is the motor stand I built the other day. Still plan on putting a board down for the batteries and need to get a gas tank and also plan on putting a shelf up towards the top for parts or tools when I'm working on it.

Had my little helper with me.



Final product



Here's a short little video from a week or so ago. Motor hasn't been ran in a while so I took it out to the street and fired it up. I have a water fitting that threads into the LU so I can attach a hose.

Merc1000 Idle video

little helpers are awesome I have one myself.
questions are always welcomed.

Ok had some success last night. Throttle and shift cables removed easily. Removed steering link without any issues.

The only thing in question now is that outer steering cable housing. It does spin on the male threaded end of the tilt tube but since the outer steering cable housing is connected to the steering cable there is no way to spin it more than 1/4 turn or so before the cable twists tight and won't allow it to turn any more.

Do I need to detach the steering cable from another point (steering assembly on the steering wheel?) and fish it out of the back of the boat so I can spin the whole cable assembly?

I don't believe it is a good idea to run the Merc while the hose is connected to that fitting.
I am of the understanding that when attached to that fitting you are by-passing the water pump impeller with the intention of flushing the motor without it running.
I 'think' that you may have damaged the water pump impeller and housing and next time you should use a set of 'muffs' that feed water directly into the water intake holes found on both sides of the gearcase in a vertical row.
If I'm full of cr*p on the flshing device someone will call me on it - I hope.

Now,...Back to the steering cable.
Can you hold the outer housing of the steering cable starboard of the Merc so that it doesn't rotate as you rotate the nut holding it onto the tilt tube?
I wrap a rag around the housing to protect it and keep it from rotating with a firm grip by use of vise-grip pliers.
Once the nut has backed clear off the tilt tube you should be able to pull the steering cable out of the tilt tube.
(the tilt tube is the piece of 1" pipe that the steering cable slides through and the motor tilts on as a 'hinge' as the Merc is tilted up for trailering, etc).
A good clear picture of that steering cable on the starboard side of the Merc would be helpful as the system looks different than what I'm used to seeing.
Thom

Well that's interesting to know about the hose fitting and the motor running. That's how it's been done for the last 25 years since we've owned it. I have often thought about what the impeller does with the water being supplied that way. I never turn on the hose full blast though. I only give it enough pressure so that water comes out of the pee hole. I'll have to look into those muffs for sure.

The flexible outer cable housing looks like it has a male fitting pressed onto it that has grease fitting. That male fitting then threads into the metal outer cable housing you guys have been referring to which has female threads on both ends. Then on the motor side of that metal outer cable housing it threads onto the male end of the tilt tube.

I don't have a picture right but did this quick sketch of what I remember of it. It looks like it would come apart this way. Click on the image to make it larger.

Dr. Frankenmerc wrote:

I don't believe it is a good idea to run the Merc while the hose is connected to that fitting.
.........................................................
If I'm full of cr*p on the flshing device someone will call me on it - I hope.

Actually, the Merc Factory Manual backs you up on this Thom. As I recall, there was a Warning Note to this effect in "The Book". (1962 700 FGS) I never figured out the "particulars" of why, or what would happen if you did, I just took it as good advise from the people who designed and built the motor. After spending the $26 for the fitting and then reading the book, I ended up building a "test barrel" anyway.

Dr_Frankenmerc wrote:

I don't believe it is a good idea to run the Merc while the hose is connected to that fitting.
I am of the understanding that when attached to that fitting you are by-passing the water pump impeller with the intention of flushing the motor without it running.
I 'think' that you may have damaged the water pump impeller and housing and next time you should use a set of 'muffs' that feed water directly into the water intake holes found on both sides of the gearcase in a vertical row.
If I'm full of cr*p on the flshing device someone will call me on it - I hope.
Thom

I agree, I have also read not to run the engine when using this type of flushing adapter. I believe it threads into the output (delivery) side of the water pump so in theory you are, as you say, bypassing the impeller. If NRummy has been doing it this way with no apparent ill effects for 25 years then it must mean enough water is forced the wrong way back to the impeller to keep it lubricated. I still wouldn't recommend it though. Muffs are easy, barrel is best.

Geoff UK

You guys are making me feel bad

The motor stand I made will hopefully allow me to use a barrel/tub. How far up on the LU does the waterline need to be in order to draw in the water needed?

So does the water pump not use all the water it pulls in? Is the opening I'm using for the hose adapter like an over flow or something?

The opening for the adapter is for just that, nothing else, purely for flushing the motor. The water needs to cover the pickup holes on the side of the lower unit ahead of the prop, a row of vertical holes each side. That is the pump intake. Make sure the bung is back in the hole where the flushing attachment was.

NRummy wrote:

You guys are making me feel bad

Our intentions are NOT to make you feel bad NR, I promise you. As Alacrity stated, you may be getting enough water back to the impeller to lubricate it enough to not do damage. We were merely pointing out that Mercury does not recommend running the motor this way. The muffs or a barrel/bucket/large trash can are much safer, and we're pointing out that this would be better for your future testing, tuning, etc.. Our goal here is to help others keep these wonderful old motors running as long as possible, not make some one feel bad about anything.

While we're on the subject of the water pump impeller, they recommend changing it every couple (1-2 or 3 years at MOST). It's not uncommon for them to last longer, but failure can spell disaster for the old girl in a hurry. Just trying to help you out, I assure you.

NR,
That is really interesting in that you have flushed like you described with the Merc running for years.
Maybe - even though Merc warns against it - there IS enough water getting into the impeller housing to keep it from damaging itself and the housing.
When was the last time you inspected or replaced the impeller?
If I hear 'never' - I am prepared to believe it.
I have seen original Merc impellers in older Stacks that I've known for a fact were in place for over 30 years and were STILL very pliable and working perfectly.
In warning though,...It is definitely more common to see impellers that are not changed frequently that have lost their blades, burned (melted) the housings, and taken a set (blades are bent and do not return to straight anymore and consequently can't produce good water pressure needed to reach to top of the tall Stack-6 block.)
I often think that perhaps I should have kept all the 'old' impellers I removed at the local Merc Dealership back in the early '60s so I could test their durability today against today's impellers.
It is a sad day in Mercury Country when a neglected impeller takes its toll on one of the old giants.
When all six are firing and all three carburetors are working there is just plain nothing cooler sounding than an old Stack.

That steering tube off the starboard side of the motor must be a place for excess grease to be to keep the steering arm working freely in the tilt tube. If so - what a great idea!
In regards to removing it - I wonder if perhaps it has a way to be removed without unthreading the Merc tilt tube from it by jamming two nuts together on the port end of the tilt tube and then rotating the tilt tube until the steering 'backs off the threads on the starboard end of the tilt tube???
You wouldn't need to remove the tilt tube - simply rotate it.
Pretty simply IF the tilt tube isn't seized to one of the transom clamp assemblies or seized in the swivel housing.
Please keep us informed of your discoveries on this NR.
Thom

MarkS wrote:

NRummy wrote:

You guys are making me feel bad

Our intentions are NOT to make you feel bad NR, I promise you.

You guys aren't actually making me feel bad. I guess I should have put a smiley there to show my sarcasm! Believe me, I appreciate your honest replies. That's why I'm here. I want to learn as much as I can about the proper care for these beasts.

I personally have never changed the impeller and I've ran the boat for about 3 years. My Papaw changed the impeller out before the boat was given to me. All I've done is normal LU upkeep and greased some fittings that said should be greased in the manual.

I got my lift ring in yesterday and it threaded in by hand all the way so I was happy about that!

Back to the steering. The piece that has the female ends on both sides spins freely on the tilt tube's male end. I can turn it by hand with no effort. Like I said before though, the flexible part of the steering cable will only twist 1/4 turn before I can no longer turn the metal tube.

I'm wondering if I can un-thread the male end of the steering cable while threading the "metal coupler" further onto the tilt tube. That way the steering cable isn't twisting. I just have to hope there are enough extra threads on the tilt tube to allow me to back out the male fitting on the steering cable.

Nick

Here's another question. (hey, you guys asked for it! haha)

Does anyone know what year they started doing the power tilt/trim setup? Would it be accurate to date if I put it on this motor if it is something that was offered in the 60's or is it even possible to convert to on this motor? Sure would be a nice feature.

Not original, but can be added.
T

Depends how mechanically inclined you are; www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/mercury-outpost/early-60-s-900-w-mid-80-s-power-trim-and-tilt-unit

Oh ok. If it's not something that was original to the year then I'll hold off. Want to keep this as factory as possible. Thanks!

Thom I think on the Mercury Merc models when you use the flush device you are OK and are feeding the impeller. With a Bobs Nose Cone you plumb the nose cone addition into the water pump at this flush location basically yes?
Like on my old Mark 30 and the other earlier models you will bypass the pump housing to flush I'd have to run out to the Merc Farm and have a look.
If you look at the later pump housings with the flush hole you can see that the tapped flush hole is on the intake side so the impeller does get a good amount of water.

I love 1965 Merc 1000's. Still have my very 1st one.

My name is Jim and I am a Mercoholic. It has been 9 hours since I have last touched a Merc.

47 going on 12 what'd ya expect?

g3jim wrote:

If you look at the later pump housings with the flush hole you can see that the tapped flush hole is on the intake side so the impeller does get a good amount of water.

Ah OK I was thinking it was threaded into the discharge side of the pump. Thats this Limey told then!

NRummy wrote:

Oh ok. If it's not something that was original to the year then I'll hold off. Want to keep this as factory as possible. Thanks!

Just so you know, after Merc started making PT&T for their motors, they sold a kit to retrofit back to '62. I found the instructions for the kit on the web, got an early PT&T unit from Dave Bernard and adapted it to my '63 1000. So is it original equipment? No. But did Merc want folks with earlier motors to have the PT&T advantage? Absolutely! I sure like the versatility and ease of use mine provides.

Frank

Wow that's reason enough to go for it! It makes perfect sense too. Just the way it was being worded above made it sound like the guys were adapting something that wasn't meant for it to be done.

Where did you find your conversion kit?

early to mid seventies merc PT&T with the remote "in the boat" mounted hydraulic pump system will fit the early model inlines

someone Im sure will know the exact starting and ending years this PT&T setup was used

NRummy wrote:

Wow that's reason enough to go for it! It makes perfect sense too. Just the way it was being worded above made it sound like the guys were adapting something that wasn't meant for it to be done.

Where did you find your conversion kit?

I didn't "find" a conversion kit. I found pdf'ed directions on the web somewhere and started acquiring parts. I'll see if I can find them again and post a link...

Frank

This is the best I can come up with quick. This is the manual I worked from:

picasaweb.google.com/Smig06/PTTManuals#

the 2 piston system replaces the shocks great system, i love mine. lookf for a pump 2 pistons hoses and wiring with switches.

Like Dave says, and with a 4 hose manifold if ya can.

How hard are they to come by? I'll have to read up on what it might take to get one. It definitely would be worth having and I have plenty of time to keep an eye out.