Andgott wrote:Houston-
I like the 'furnace' idea....
-Andrew
well Andrew, I like the idea my self, but like I said I would change the material used ever...so slightly but stay with the basic concept.
the cans I would use would be the 10.5 oz soup can, where either you can try collecting them from your own consumption and how you buy your can goods or you can post a need on cregs list for a specific (empty) can, which I found the 10.5 Wegmans soup can are just about exactly like a soda can.
what I would do differently and why:
soda cans are a bit of a PITA to "pop the top" of of with a can opener and they do not sit steady and square when stacked, so I would replace the soda can with the soup can which is more ridged bit more thicker wall, which will be need for my next step.
in his video he shows drilling 3 holes I would drill 5, like in a pattern that is seen on a deck of cards, which I haven't played with the drill or my drill bits yet to see just how big I could make them but...
i would run up to ACE hardware up the street and get a length of threaded rod and two big flat washers, the threaded rod would be for stacking the cans on to for when I get 10 or 15 high I could set this with a disk on both ends with the flat washers and I could snug the cans straight.
I would use durafix
WEBSITE
which is stronger than the can it self after you join them, after they are completely mated I would remove the rod which now I would have five air passage ways instead of three. In his video he uses High Heat Mortar Cement which
after it is used is toxic when heated and going the "extra-step" my cans would be straight and air tight.
video example
Durafix Welding videos
, watch the first one and see what happens to the soda can and the weld...
I am thinking if it is a 15 can per row setup that every third can or (3) in the row should have steel wool inside it to slow the flow between the cans for they can collect more heat as the air is flowing
the top header would have another header above that for a (meri-therm) thermally actuated automatic Vent damper (model# t300) could be in place before the thermostatically activated disk dampener this area would collect all the air from all the rows that then would lead to the disk. I tested the damper using a single candle and just off that little bit of heat it opened up the restriction of the flaps, they are used on the exhaust stack of hot water heaters.
in his video, he has one battery I would use two, for when one draw is in use the other is being charged, an auto a/b switch could be in place and set for a certain trip point to switch battery's for if the battery in use drops to -X- charge, that the other battery would take the load and the battery that was in use could regain it's charge via the solar collection panel, you can not charge a battery that is in uses under these conditions, what he may not be noticing is his fans are running directly off his solar panel instead of the battery when the system is on.
I would use internal duck fans verses a computer fan, my one reason for this would be the noise level, using an internal duck fan would put the fan in the box and by design is pretty sound prof.
let me know if your going to do it and post some pic of what you would do differently, these are just ruff design changes I would make that just kind of came to me off the top of my head.