With the bulk of the paint work done, I started on the upholstered dashboard.
lots of staples to remove.
wood is in decent shape and I'll give it a coat or two of CPES to seal it.
as I'm not going with back to back seats, the new rear bench seat will cover some of the side storage bins. So I opened up the length another 12". These panels will get an off white to match the vinyl on the deck and seat accent stripes.
cleaned up the deck trim that surrounds the 2 vinyl panels.
measured and cataloged all of the metal that will need to be chromed or polished for a quote.
started on the wheel restoration-
waiting for the seat upholstery, could be 12-14 weeks! and the new rub rail from Wefco.
New can of Zolatone arrived Friday.
Made a temporary spray booth and got the rear bench and front seat bases shot as well as the gas tank tray-
Love this stuff and looks great! it will get a coat of 2K semi-gloss clear in about a week after it vapes off.
Made some headway on the brightwork. The deck trim was pretty delicate so I tried cleaning and polishing with a drill buffer. No good. Used a buck board under the narrow trim and fed it under the wheel. First with compound and then with some Flitz polish. That worked well.
The heavy tempered glass windshield frame would only release from one side. So I was able to get the gasket out. Then used a gray 3M pad with Flitz, then compound on a drill buffer, and then back to Flitz on a micro cloth. Came out pretty good. Just needs a little detail work.
FYI- Wefco is no longer making white extruded products per Pete. They were running it a year ago but I had to wait a few weeks until they had enough orders to warrant cleaning the machines and prepping for white. Guess they didn't have enough orders coming in to continue. So black is all they extrude now. I'm going to try and clean up the piece I have as its an odd shape.
Wow... I need to get some grey pads. I already have the Flitz and love how well it works. However, I didn’t know your method of cleaning up the windshield trim. I zoomed in on that one picture and saw how it looked before cleaning it up and I was impressed with your results. This spring I will give it a try. My rub rail is solid radius aluminum and it is heavily scratched. Do you think this method will work with heavy scratching, or would I need to use different levels of sandpaper to get out the dock scratches?
morning, the gray pads worked well for surface crud and taking out minor defects. they do leave some light scratches so the drill style buffing wheels were needed to take those out. then the final polish with the flitz. Amazon or harbor freight offer a box of drill buffers with a stick of compound for approx $12.
the rub rails on my lake n sea were like yours. i had to start with some 600 grit wet paper and work my way up to around 1200 in spots to get the deeper ones out. then the compound and flitz. some are just too deep and the aluminum would get thin if I took them all the way down. and you know what...no matter how careful I was, i (or my "crew" trying out the boat) put more rubs on it this past summer. pic attached of of one side-
Thanks for all of the tips. I for sure want to polish up the windshield frame like yours. I may have to evaluate how much the rub rail is more like a scrub rail, so maybe if it already has tons of light scratches, I might just try some sandpaper to make it all a more consistent brushed aluminum look. If I try to make it shiny, perhaps the gouges would show up more and maybe make things look worse. Maybe if I just make my boat faster, no one will be able to notice. Your work is excellent. Love the boat and colors and shiny bright work.
changed out the vent from straight to 90 to easily bring it up the side of the engine well.
stripped approx. 6" of wire and put an eye connector on the end. ran a ground wire from the top bolt on the 316 stainless filler around the neck for good measure and plan to take that to the ground bus bar. there is another ground that goes from the fuel gage sender to the bus bar. green wire still coiled in picture
IS THAT ENOUGH TO DISCHARGE STATIC? this is the first permanent tank I have installed, want to do it correctly!
You got it right. Looks perfect. I've done a few installs like that. The wiring is good and leave yourself enough access to change the filter cartridge annually. One thing about permanent tanks is the fuel oil mix and how to keep it right. My solution was to add gas first and then oil to match the gallons you put in. Say if you went to a gas station to top off before a day on the water and there is only enough room for 4 gallons of gas you put in the gas first and then the correct amount of oil. If you add oil first and don't have enough room for matching gas the ratio is heavy. Unless you mix in a separate container and then funnel it in. It's pretty easy to overfill and have fuel come burping out the vent on a hot day. Leave some room at the top.
IMHO of course
63 Sabre, Question:
I'm not yet ready to hook up the fuel tank wires to the tank but when I do there is a lead from the gauge that is supposed to go to the ignition pole so that it is only on when the engine is on. My Merc control unit has has limited access to the key switch. So where are you tapping into the switch? On the attached PDF, it looks like I need to connect to "F" red or the white at the switch. OR I could possibly run a wire from one of these at the engine up to the gauge, i.e. off the rectifier or coil?
thanks in advance for any help and pictures that you could offer.
OK just to let you know I was never a Merc guy. but you're correct again. Sender (S) on the tank unit to (S) on the gauge. (-) on the tank unit to the SAME ground that your gauge is connected to.
Looking at you schematic I would go with the red wire also. That way when your key is turned on you will have power going to the gauge. If you have a multimeter you can check to be sure. Put the meter on 12 volt DC setting and then ground your meter and the touch your other lead to the red wire coming from your control, turn the key to "on" and you should get 12 volt reading. If that's good you will have your connection point.
I'm sure there are some Merc experts here to either confirm or deny. Here's a video that might help out also.
Got to use the harbor freight bender again making a new transom shield.
I'll probably use one of the small plastic or rubber cup pads under the 2 T handle motor screws as well.
Metal is packed and off to the chrome plater.
Vinyl for the upholstery is on order.
Excellent! Didn’t know they had a sheet metal break... likely never looked on that end of the store. Is that aluminum? How thick? What tools did you use for radius cutting that metal? Really looks nice. That is one of my next projects. Son in law is looking for some scrap metal for me and not sure if we can find aluminum or stainless. I am mounting a 6 cylinder and am thinking either 1/8 inch stainless or maybe 3/16 or even 1/4 inch aluminum... is that too thick? If that is aluminum, will it look like it wants to start cracking when bending 90 degrees. Sorry for all the questions, but I really like your results and figured you could set my mind at ease a little trying to copy you. The reason I was thinking thicker is to help reduce transom flex when using a lower pitch ski prop with more thrust when punching it to pull a skier.
HF has two sizes; this one does up to 18" width and than there is a wider version. get your 20% off coupon on line!
The original in the first picture was thin aluminum, tacked in around the perimeter with sheet metal or oval head screws. That's how my Lake n Sea was as well. The same configuration bent over the cap of the transom.
The Lake n Sea had another situation to address as I had a long shaft Merc so we made a heavy duty jack plate with my local welder and then a spent some time polishing it up. This set up did really well last summer. I posted a video in either the main forum or Merc, "Merc Eye Candy".
The aluminum is only about 1/16" thick, no problem bending it. could have probably gone thicker but the original wasn't. I had bought 2 sheets when I did the lake n sea, 18 x 24, from online metals.com, they run coupons as well. So I had this one sitting in the box ready to use.
I cut the radius with a jig saw, metal cutting fine tooth blade and then sanded the edge. it still has the protective plastic on it. I'll remove when I mount it, and give it a coat of wax or Flitz.
I'm also going to pick up an inexpensive transom pad, last picture, where the thumb screws tighten in and then run 2 stainless bolts through the lower brackets and transom. Seal hole around the threads-
I don’t have a thread started on mine as it may be summer or so before I can get to that part of the project. I still have one car that needs winter maintenance, a freshly powder coated trailer to re assemble before summer. 63 Sabre... your idea definitely would work and be much less effort. However, since I may get access to an Industrial sheet bender break and maybe a laser cutter, I want to try and go the extra mile. The main reason I want to go to the extra work of having the 2 full length bends is because I am trying to get more rigidity to distribute stress all across my transom. I have a Powercat with about a 58” wide almost full width transom. I am basically awaiting a return on several past favors, so I am trying to be patient or this will get pricy very fast.
vinyl arrived for the dash and side panels.
took the 2 dash hoods to a local upholstery shop and they stitched up the new skins for me.
some of the white will get "pulled in" tighter when the passenger handle and steering wheel hub get mounted. that is weeks off as they are still at the chrome plater.
Some chrome finish bling arrived yesterday so I was able to get the center console construction completed.
Console can be pushed back under a few more inches so I'll wait until the seats are complete to check for the final position.
Ran the same chrome trim along the gunnel where there originally was a strip of metal L channel but there's not enough meat left under there for nails again.
I'll post a "Vote" for position of the logo in the general forum.
Let me know what you think!
Very nice looking. I can imagine there is quite a bit of adjusting to get this fitting the way you like. Kudos for all of that work. Who is a good source for various size rollers. I am having a hard time finding the flat rolling pin looking rollers in medium lengths. I may just end up using my original rollers if I don’t find what I want. Mine are not cracked, so maybe some Armor All treatment will freshen them up. I just don’t think my original style rollers are the best for my hull. They are the keel type high on outside and low in middle, but I have flat hull surfaces with no keel to center. I like those flat orange rollers in the back, but those are too wide for my brackets.
Stoltz manufactures the orange urethane rollers in many shapes and sizes. Overton's carries the 12" flat roller for about $28. I blocked and clamped it on my miter saw. Using a sharp fine tooth blade, cut it in half for the 2 - 6" I needed. Go slow, the little urethane bits may melt or fuse together and can be removed and edge lightly sanded. Grease internally and use plastic or stainless washers on the sides. There are several sites that carry Stoltz and I had to go to 3 of them to get the mix I wanted. Used the same roller but only trimmed a little on the rear of my Lake n Sea - Gator trailer. There is a full thread on the Holsclaw restoration under "Trailer Talk".
Eric, you are a very talented man. I am thoroughly impressed with your work. Do you restore boats for a living or are you retired with the time on your hands to restore those boats for yourself? Also...super envious of your shop.
Also, Why paint and not gel coat? I've noticed a lot of people restoring fiberglassics using paint rather than a more original gelcoat finish. I'm under the impression gel coat will hold up much much longer, no?
Just a hobby, still working the 9-5...
Took 3 years for the wagemaker, got overwhelmed with the U22 after a while and took a break with the lake n sea that took 3 years. Now a year and a half into the custom craft.
The "boss" let be build the shop when our younger son was no longer on the payroll !
There are far more talented folks on this web site. They have helped me a long the way. I'm also active in the ACBS chapters that are within a few hours of me in all directions. We hold workshops and zoom type meetings to interact, share and learn. Look for a chapter to join! One of my mentors in the Smith Mountain Lake chapter says, and I paraphrase, "knowledge is like manure...it does no good sitting as a pile in your head...you need to spread it around for all to benefit". What state are you in? I could point you to the local contact.
Gel coat is great, but I've never sprayed it. Have just roll & tipped the following. proper thinning will get it to flow right, trial and error. I used Kirbys oil base on the wagemaker, interlux perfection on the lake n sea and trying the rust stop mix on the custom craft after reading great things about it here and watching a few motor head videos spraying rustoleum and then clear coating. $33 gal for a custom mix color plus the tractor store hardener and some mineral spirits. The expense is in the 2 part, 2k glamour coat spray cans if you choose to do that. I'll put more details about that in the next video. I like the idea of the clear as you can compound and then later wax it if needed. Good little guide book attached you can get on line.
Your boats gonna be a can of worms...just jump in and don't rush...its a process...
I am in New Jersey. I'd say land of the new boats, but that isn't totally true as there is a very good restoration shop on Lake Hopatcong but they mostly do vintage wooden boats.
Trust me, i am in no hurry as the boat will be more or less sitting for years. I've made a deal with myself that I won't go too in depth with the Seafair until I'm finished with restoring my house, and that's going to be a number of years still. Not to mention I'd love to build a garage to work on the boat in as well, but it's not strictly necessary.
I am in the acquisition phase at the moment, looking for the various parts I am missing or need replacements of. That much I can do. I'd also really love to pull the Evinrude off the boat so I can get it on a stand in the basement. With occasional breaks in work on the house I can at least get to restoring that in the next few years. The trouble i have is getting it off. I don't have that many people in my life who can muscle that beast around and I certainly cannot take it off myself...but lately I've been wondering about taking it off a bit at a time to make it easy...pull the lower unit, then mid section, pull the powerhead, and finally the transom mounting. Then reassemble in the basement while performing restoration work? There's more than one way to skin a cat. I just really want to relieve the pressure on the transom which is obviously bowed. I'd like it off before it breaks the 1959-only motor splash well. What do you think?
So I don't want to state the obvious...if you take it apart piece by piece to then later assemble in your basement...how do you get it back out? walk out or in this case roll out basement doors I hope!
See attached picture of a 90 hp version of your 75 starflite. it has a flip up lifting ring built right in. do you have one on the 75?
invest in a harbor freight chain hoist for $50 or less with a coupon. if your garage header is not beefy enough to hold the approx. 400 lbs or less, then screw up a board or two to a couple of trees. or make a slightly bigger investment in an engine hoist on 4 roller wheels. You will use either to remove the engine, place it on an engine stand that you can build at nominal cost or from scrap lumber, maybe to place in a water tank and back on the boat. you'll also use a chain hoist to lift the boat when painting the bottom and servicing the trailer. so if it was me, i would get a stand built, buy a chain hoist or similar, lift it off with a spotter helping and lower it on the stand. roll it where needed, make a shelf on it for parts, tools, gas, etc. Also, taking it apart and leaving the pieces sit for years just seems like you might be asking for problems down the road. If you do that, label it all, take pictures and store it all together. Won't be worth much if you get half way through and decide to sell...a buyer won't want to take your word that all those parts will build a complete engine! my 2 cents...you asked-
and if you want a spare, my 90 V4 is for sale. pictures in the engine glassified section.
ACBS has 3 chapters in the NJ area listed here
You are correct in that Lake Hopatcong has a large number of classic beautiful wooden boats. They have some fiberglass as well. Katz's Marina is an excellent restoration shop. You might take a drive out there to poke around on his shelves for the part(s) you are looking for, worth a call anyway. The Chesapeake Chapter is currently figuring out if they can have their show in St. Michaels, MD, fathers day weekend. Under normal circumstances, I would say go to that show as you can take the Cape May Ferry into DE or the turnpike towards 50 E in MD. It usually has a good mix of wood and fiberglass, lots of vendors, etc. They'll make a decision in the next 2-3 weeks.
following up on last nights thoughts- I recently had the opportunity to move a motor as well.
Took a road trip last weekend to pick up the engine for this boat, a Merc 1000.
Mechanically rebuilt by Tim Calmes and I'll take care of the external cosmetics.
Unloaded using the chain hoist and placed on a stand built from left over pole barn wood.
Bright trim removed for polishing and starting to scuff and smooth chips for primer.
What are your thoughts on props?
All Tim had in good shape was this NOS bronze 13.5" x 19P. Most of what I see out there are 3 blades on these.
Regarding the Merc 1000... my 1965 Merc 1000 came with a 3 blade 17” pitch bronze prop. Seems to run nice on my 15 foot Powercat that is the triple hull and I think weighs about 550 pounds empty add about another 500 pounds for 2 people, 2 6 gallon cans of gas and miscellaneous gear and I think my short shaft may weigh around 270 ish. I also have a 19 pitch 2 blade that works for a couple mph, but is much more sluggish getting out of the hole and to top speed. The right prop for you will depend on your factors, so that is why I give you my reference points. Sadly I don’t have a tach yet to read exact rpm’s. However the previous owner had it 47 years and skied with it, so my 17 pitch 3 blade was the right prop for him. Good luck with yours. I did try a 2 blade 24” pitch bronze prop I had and ran a temporary tach, but was way short of meeting optimum rpm like 600-700 short of max. Additional note: I had to replace some wiring under my hood because that insulation was falling off in some areas and copper was corroding. I also am replacing the brittle fuel lines under the hood as one started leaking. I will be ordering new fuel pump diaphragm kits and new carb floats just to be safe. Your motor may be in better shape and perfect running... this is just what I found on mine and I want to have peace of mind. Looking good preparing for touch up painting.