With the bulk of the paint work done, I started on the upholstered dashboard.
lots of staples to remove.
wood is in decent shape and I'll give it a coat or two of CPES to seal it.
as I'm not going with back to back seats, the new rear bench seat will cover some of the side storage bins. So I opened up the length another 12". These panels will get an off white to match the vinyl on the deck and seat accent stripes.
cleaned up the deck trim that surrounds the 2 vinyl panels.
measured and cataloged all of the metal that will need to be chromed or polished for a quote.
started on the wheel restoration-
waiting for the seat upholstery, could be 12-14 weeks! and the new rub rail from Wefco.
New can of Zolatone arrived Friday.
Made a temporary spray booth and got the rear bench and front seat bases shot as well as the gas tank tray-
Love this stuff and looks great! it will get a coat of 2K semi-gloss clear in about a week after it vapes off.
Made some headway on the brightwork. The deck trim was pretty delicate so I tried cleaning and polishing with a drill buffer. No good. Used a buck board under the narrow trim and fed it under the wheel. First with compound and then with some Flitz polish. That worked well.
The heavy tempered glass windshield frame would only release from one side. So I was able to get the gasket out. Then used a gray 3M pad with Flitz, then compound on a drill buffer, and then back to Flitz on a micro cloth. Came out pretty good. Just needs a little detail work.
FYI- Wefco is no longer making white extruded products per Pete. They were running it a year ago but I had to wait a few weeks until they had enough orders to warrant cleaning the machines and prepping for white. Guess they didn't have enough orders coming in to continue. So black is all they extrude now. I'm going to try and clean up the piece I have as its an odd shape.
Wow... I need to get some grey pads. I already have the Flitz and love how well it works. However, I didn’t know your method of cleaning up the windshield trim. I zoomed in on that one picture and saw how it looked before cleaning it up and I was impressed with your results. This spring I will give it a try. My rub rail is solid radius aluminum and it is heavily scratched. Do you think this method will work with heavy scratching, or would I need to use different levels of sandpaper to get out the dock scratches?
morning, the gray pads worked well for surface crud and taking out minor defects. they do leave some light scratches so the drill style buffing wheels were needed to take those out. then the final polish with the flitz. Amazon or harbor freight offer a box of drill buffers with a stick of compound for approx $12.
the rub rails on my lake n sea were like yours. i had to start with some 600 grit wet paper and work my way up to around 1200 in spots to get the deeper ones out. then the compound and flitz. some are just too deep and the aluminum would get thin if I took them all the way down. and you know what...no matter how careful I was, i (or my "crew" trying out the boat) put more rubs on it this past summer. pic attached of of one side-
Thanks for all of the tips. I for sure want to polish up the windshield frame like yours. I may have to evaluate how much the rub rail is more like a scrub rail, so maybe if it already has tons of light scratches, I might just try some sandpaper to make it all a more consistent brushed aluminum look. If I try to make it shiny, perhaps the gouges would show up more and maybe make things look worse. Maybe if I just make my boat faster, no one will be able to notice. Your work is excellent. Love the boat and colors and shiny bright work.