Thanks guys , when i had my GT160 it always got a ton of attention . There's just something about the old boats that the new ones cant compete with who cares if new boats have bluetooth /USB ports and a built in cooler, ah phooey mine has a big block Oldsmobile with open exhaust and tons of metal flake and polished aluminum lol .
Looks really great. That style never goes out of date. The others would gladly give up the bluetooth if they had one of those. Consider it adding to the water level when they drool all over their cookie cutter plastic stamp outs.
Simply love it. Once I saw the Glastron sponsored "Live and let die " Bond movie, I loved watching for all "Bond" featured boats throughout the summer. Any plans for 8 pipes sticking up?... just kidding. You Rocked that restoration!!
The good the not so good and the ugly . The good the crank will only need .010 under grind , the is just your original run of the mill 1970 455 that hasn't been taken apart and doesn't have any cracks yea ! The not so good is hole number three has some pitting from it sitting for so many years , the machinist thinks a .060 bore will remove them if not it will have to be sleeved and the block decked "cha ching" . The ugly , the heads are your run of the mill 2.00 intake nothing special heads that need a complete overhaul that have already been worked on as in knurled guides and they're warped to boot . I'm going to focus on getting the block done with new forged pistons (gonna try to get at least 9 to 1 ) , forged rods , a more aggressive cam and lifters . The next thing will be aluminum heads with 2.075 intakes the adjustable rockers . I'm kicking myself in the arse for selling my little 160 .
The engine parts are startin to trickle in , just got the forged H beam rods , timing gears and chain , the forged flat top pistons are on a truck somewhere on their way here . I had the machinist sleeve number three, that way im keeping the bore to .030 over , as soon as he gets the pistons he'll finish the boring and honing . I'm having him assemble a short block with oiling modification , crank and pistons then i'll finish it .
Looking good Gil!!! A few things and not trying to be alarmist but pistons look like comp would be high although you can get away with more on aluminum heads. Surprised he did not use main studs, way better where Olds are two bolt mains and cranks are very large/ heavy.. Cam should be all in at 4600, it looks a tad big.
I picked up a jet this year although not a Glastron. My GT 160 will be at the wolf or o show this Sat, came out real nice, your decals were the crowning touch.
Thanks Randy , I calc'd the ratio out to 10.2 to 1 which is about as far as i would want to go with premium pump gas . The cam im hoping is gonna work out ok its pretty much set for a A or B impeller , And yes I hope i dont lunch the crank with the original bolts , i still have half a mind to replace them with a stud kit . Lets just say i wont be using the machine shop i used again . I'll be up to one of the lake winnipesaukee shows in a couple of weeks as a spectator , not sure where , its my brother in laws idea . I'm glad the decals worked out i did a lot of back and forth with the sign shop to get them to fit right , they do do nice work . Gil
I am almost ready to paint the engine , spent a good part of the day today messin with the push rod guide plates to get the roller rockers to ride across the center of the valves , it took some time but worked out well . I installed the timing chain cover , water pump and the fuel pump , keep in mind you have to clearance Edelbrock heads where the fuel pump mounts . I have to either buy tall valve covers or buy 1/2 inch spacers for my stock covers too fit over the rocker studs more money lol.
Hi Gil, looking great those heads will help a lot on power. Look at link below for correct water flow with a jet. No circulator (auto water pump) or raw water pump is used, cooling water is tapped off the bowl of the jet pump as it's always pumping pressurized water and the thermostat is replaced with a restrictor disk. Jets cool with very different plumbing than a standard inboard or I/O.
Here is a diagram:
Jets use the exhaust manifolds to preheat cold raw water and that warmed water enters the bock at the water pump openings. Water exits the block/heads through the therm housing
( with restrictor disk rather than thermostat) and then water goes through the risers (or snails as some call them) and exits into the evexaust flow as usual.
That's how my jet is plumbed and runs temps spot on 160. You will need both the correct cover piece that replaces the circ pump and the therm housing both having provisions for hose barbs. I checked and Glenwood Marine still makes what you need or eBay might help.
Thanks for the info Randy , the majority of jet cooling is done that way . Berkeley olds use a different method it's call "take up cooling " . Instead of blasting the engine with anywhere from 100 to 200 psi water to the engine with out a pressure relief valve the take up let's the water pass through to the manifolds while letting the engine take the cooling water from the jet at normal engine presure 12 to 14 psi , that's why a lot of fords and chevy make milk shakes in their oil pans , way too much water presure to the block .
Ya know, I'm not trying to be a smarty pants just makin' sure I know you do good work but, both of have had to have
a "jet" learning curve so I figured better safe than sorry. As always you are on top of it. Yes, block over pressure needs to be avoided...The jet pump can overdo it compared to a traditional impeller style raw water cooling.
Keep the progress reports coming.
I just found out the fuel pump i bought wont work with a marine engine , it has a fuel return line to the tank which i thought was a overflow to the carb " DOH" I'm still in the learning curve lol . Oh well i guess i'll just go back to painting the motor and figure it out later lol . Gil