stickers are original. the stripe on the leg has nothing to do with the should be. tha cavitation plate should be about even with the bottom of the boat or lower. yes on the degreaser BUT keep away from the decals. the color if you repaint is DULL ALUMINUM. and a decal set. all easy to get.
thank you for chiming in Dave........I will measure where the cavitation plate will be on the boat I have for this motor
I see some parts on oldmerc.com but I don't see decals. The one on my motor are very old and crumbling, there are some remnants on the top of the gas tank also, so I will need a set .
Just pondering what to do to try to bring it to working condition......?
- cleaning carburetor
- new spark plugs
- check if coils are producing spark !!
Oldmerc has a $75 Service Manual that I think I should be getting......can't find anything like that on E-bay.......wander if any of the forum members have one collecting dust in the garage......so that's my thoughts for today.....off to work
started cleaning the motor , learning about it as I was going. Scrapped first idea about spraying it with a degreaser and hosing it off. Yes, most likely would have been much faster, but since there is no manuals for it ( apparently there are 2 pages on KD4 in 1960 and older manual ) I like take it apart as I am cleaning it - gives me better understanding of how motor and motor it's components.
Here are few pieces that I washed with a dish soap on a steel wool pad, I think that' all I am going to do . So far not planning on painting it.
Next check for spark and cylinders pressure....
Cylinders are wet with oil - I think they were taken care of....
Checked for a spark on both cylinders - didn't see any. I think big part of it was that there was no solid connection ....
Cylinder pressure was:
- upper 123 lbs
- lower 117 lbs
Dr.Frankenmerc said that cylinder pressure if good enough to continue to the next step in bringing the motor back to life - great news!
.......also the sliced exhaust manifold turned out to be a factory feature....so it's all good
Very cool, that's the exhaust relief for when the engine is not moving in the water. Once underway, there is less restriction since the exhaust is being scavenged out of the L/U by venturi action (the motion of the water passing the exhaust).
If the coils are not ravaged, you may get by with simply cleaning and regapping the points. Note the points will need to be removed and then the contacts cleaned, and finally polished with Crocus Cloth.
few more days of my work week - ogh!
Next step is to dump varnish out of tank and clean tank and carburetor - carburetor gaskets etc are coming.
Was looking for a carburator cleaner - not in a spray can - for cleaning the gas tank, but there was nothing in the auto parts store. Got 3 spray cans and will use that.........
Good info about coils and points Ed - maybe they are still good !?!
Lowes also carries the gallon size for the same price.
Just be sure to use protective gloves when dealing with any solvent. Use only in an area with good ventilation and if you have a water heater, electric dryer, heaters or gas appliances, be sure they're turned off (including pilot light) or major flamage could occur!
Thank you Dave, I was wandering how to use the acetone to clean the tank1
Mounted the motor on the boat - as I was wandering if the transom is not too long for it. Took some pictures and wander what you guys think.......real test will be with the boat in the water....
Wojo, the transom height is just fine. There is plenty of prop in clean water below the transom. I dunno if the 6hp would even plane your hull, but if it does, it would be OK. I can't tell from the pics but I'd expect there are a series of holes or something similar in the gearcase for water intake, since the pump is in the aft end of the gearcase.
Dave you are right - it's a screw in there....at first I was thinking that it was a water intake also
Ed, thank you for the picture, I will be cleaning the motor today and can't wait to check that future out - seeing the picture make me realize that the motor is fine sitting on the transom the way it does.
Not sure if the 6hp is enough to get the boat on the plane - but we hopefully I will find out this summer
today I was cleaning the motor and at some point started spraying it with a carburetor cleaner..........not a good idea, the paint started coming off - sprayed with water and washed off with soap - hopefully cleaner didn't get where not supped to go.
Took off the gas tank and will be cleaning it inside with acetone tomorrow.
Any paint that comes off with carb cleaner is probably not original anyway. Your motor could be easily stripped of old non-OE paint, a bit of touch-up sanding and prime with Zinc Phosphate (Zinc Chromate is better but harder to get nowadays); then sprayed with "dull aluminum" paint which is the old-time finish and replicates raw cast aluminum.
West Marine carries Moeller Paints Zinc Phosphate primer which is quite expensive to order online, with high shipping charges because of being "hazardous" material. It's just paint!
Plasti-Kote's brand of dull aluminum spray paint is what's sold by the Oldmercs.com site. You'll probably find that a lot cheaper at Wal-Mart or other stores carrying the Plasti-Kote line. I'd expect Duplicolor has something similar.
Amazon has a good price on the Plasti-Kote with free shipping if you have Prime:
Anyway, don't worry too much about the finish, as the "dull aluminum" color is the easiest to replicate and it'll look really nice when it's done. Get 'er checked-out and running 1st and do the cosmetics later.
Thank you Ed - I can go to work feeling better about this paint situation.
Went down to the beach yesterday to asses the winter storm damage to the cliff - looks very sad!
Have been working on bulkead permit for last 8-10 months - very expensive proposition.
The temporary platform was standing 2-3 feet from the land - in last week the distance grew to more like 8 feet......and we have still many months of rain to go.
This is summer of 2017 picture...
Sooooo.......took the fuel petcock out and there is no fuel filter on it - maybe petcock was replaced...?...don't know. Cleaned the petcock and is now operational.
Poured out the acetone that was sitting there for 3 days , and need to do some more cleaning because tank inside is still dirty. Noticed that the tank leaks - see the picture. This side of the tank was dirty - most likely from gas leaking out.
Took carburetor apart. The float in it is made out of cork and kept in place with two wire clips - there are grooves in the needle to keep them in place..... the cork looks good and I am wandering if I need to repace it with a new plastic float...?.....would that change the level of gas in carburator ...??
Washed the dirt off the carburator and tomorrow will set it in acetone for few days to clean small passages etc.
The gasket set for the carburator is most likelly a general set for many different carburetors that oldmercs is selling.
Well, so far so good.......discovered that both our phones don't do sharp closeup pictures anymore - had new batteries installed few days ago, and this is a result - trying to check settings ...no luck so far
Carburetor is more or less clean, turned out that I am going use only 2 gaskets from the kit........
Went back to the place that installed new battery in my phone. When asked about the blurry close up pictures they say that sometimes during battery install the camera will shift a little and take blurry pictures....they fix the problem at no charge - just 2 hours wait
Talked to a friend that owns a car repair shop .......he uses a NAPA carburetor cleaning "kit" - a can of carburetor cleaner with a wire basket that goes inside of the can - $28- ...he also recommended to take the gas tank to radiator shop that he uses - I will give them a call.
Flying next Monday to Alaska for few days to see my daughter and 4 grandkids
Was working on my kayak and had some epoxy left so I tried to patch up the leaking gas tank...
Can't stop myself from posting a little addition to my kayak - a towing post / lifting post
On the carb, recommend coating the cork float with model airplane fuel-proof dope. This will make the float somewhat ethanol-resistant.
On the tank, if you have a rad shop clean and repair it, be sure they don't hot-tank it. I'm assuming that tank is aluminum and the caustics in the hot-tank solution will eat away the aluminum.
Interesting tank, it's got quite a seam. Is it 2-part? Don't know how these were built.
BTW one good trick for getting crud off the tank innards is to throw a handful of 1/4-20 nuts (or whatever size you have handy) in the tank and shake, shake, shake! Does a pretty good job of loosening things up.
Have a good trip to Alaska. What part? My Uncle lives in Nikiski on the Kenai Peninsula, on 20 acres. Years ago my Mom and Stepdad bought the 10 acres next to his place and in '99 built a log cabin. Was up there last summer helping frame-up a garage with my Brother and we're going back up in June to finish that job and hopefully catch some salmon!
dave bernard wrote: Yes they are aluminum and 2 piece. they can be taken apart and cleaned they have a gasket in them just screws to take apart.
Hey, that's cool. Sounds like it wouldn't be that much trouble to pull 'er apart, go scrub-a-dub-dub on the tank's innards, cut a new gasket, and slap it back together with some Permatex #3 gasket dressing (or a more advanced sealer).
Kill 2 stones with one bird, fix the leak and clean tank.
we have our daughter family living in Anchorage....4 grandkids, so we went to collect some hugs and kisses
Two days one night is about the perfect visit - long enough to do the collection and short enough not to interrupt their family life too much.
Flight is only 2.5 to 3hrs one way - Alaska Airlines is great.
There will be no ethanol in this motor ! Not worth it. Good gas only - had so much problem in my generator with it, eventually had to get new carburetor.