TOPIC: 1974 Marlin with 1971 Merc 1350

I have been talking about this one on sightings for a while, and finally took the drive with the Monkeys today and pulled the trigger. Some pics of the journey in Sightings, but I will post pics and video on the condition and progress in here.

This is a project that I bought to work on with my kids - 17 and 19. Recently divorced, and if I get to see them a few hours a week it is a near miracle. Thought that working on a project together would give us some time to interact and introduce them to my "affliction"

Drive was good and met with Matt at Nortech Marine in Sayner Wi. After a quick look-over and handshake, I gave him $250.00 and then hitched her up and left. That began the 3 hours of waiting for a bearing or tire to let go. However, all was well and I made it home without incident.

First thing - amateur video of the condition of the boat -

www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=0WItqwnmvik&u=/watch%3Fv%3DnmUa28iIfdI%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner

The short list of things to work on that are known Day 1:

1 - No key. Hopefully Matt finds the bag with all the keys soon and can send it to me. Otherwise I will need to install a new one.
2 - T&T unit - motor runs to go down, but no movement. Need to check lines and fluid. Does not work for up - need to check that solenoid
3 - Prop has a pretty good ding in it
4 - Hull is dirty, but gel coat looks good. We might get away with a light wet-sanding and buffing.
5 - Windshield has a serious crack. I will drill out the end of it, but we will probably need to source a new one as this is probably not repairable.
6 - Fixed bow tank filled with 7-10 year old mixed gas.... Need I say more??
7 - Winch has a wire cable - need to replace with a strap.
8 - Passenger side tire has cracking, and no spare
9 - No transom saver. Transom is solid, and I need to rig up something to keep it that way.
10 - Floor felt a little spongy, but it was wet from the monsoon. Will need to evaluate after it sits in the garage for a week or so.

I will post more as I get working on the project with the Monkeys. Hopefully sometime this week we can get together and clean up the old girl to get off the grime. We can then see what we have in front of us for wet-sanding and buffing.

Wishing you a great journey with the kids between garage and water. I have seen lots of smiles on this site with those first boat launches/water tests!! Cool lines and late 60's/early 70's vibe with the flake.

Thanks Mark! I think it will look great in the water. Just need Matt to come through with some keys in the next few weeks.

Couldn't tell in some of the pics but I saw the video and yeah that's an 18-footer. Sidewinder had a version of that, too. Lots of room in that one and it's still a very light boat. Will probably be a bit more stable than the 16' hull I reckon.

Yeah, but can it fly 121 ft ??

It'll fly 119 ft and then land nose down and launch the passengers another 100 ft

Then it's still a record. LOL.

northernwi.craigslist.org/boa/5739100208.html

Thought I would post this because it looks like it has a good windshield. Maybe that same hulls was "splashed" by a few different boat builders and maybe it fits yours. Three Lakes was not super far from Sayner. Too bad it does not have a more desirable motor to make it more attractive. Just throwing it out there.

He must be smoking crack to think about $1500 for that boat. You are right about the windshield, but I think the Marlin's is even a lower profile. I will roll it out of the garage tonight and take a bunch of pictures with a tape on it so I can get the "crew" looking for me.

BTW -

1 - Stop putting candy in front of an addict!!! I am purposely not looking at CL and eBay to keep temptation at bay.
2 - It is good there was not a nice Merc tower on it - always room for another project!!!
3 - "Three Lakes is not super far from Sayner" - It is from Green Bay though!!!

Here are some pics of the Marlin's windshield. Forgot to take pictures when I had it outside. I also did it by myself, so I will need to get better measurements if we find something. Hopefully what I post will give us a start to finding a replacement.

Agree - a nicer motor would help sell it. Don't mean to feed candy, just trying to help with the windshield (since I cannot break my own habit if Craigslist daily to find my motor)...I find lots of other stuff for other people while looking for my motor. I cannot break the habit because I missed 2 motors last year by being one day late on both. I have not seen once since.

A friend had a sidewinder with the 140 I/O merc...but it had a big turbo and huge custom motor cover...on that low boat, it looked huge...boat ran on low 60's with that turbo it was metallic PinkishPurple ...the previous owner named it Purple Haze.

What are you looking for in a motor? I can keep my eyes pealed.

1965 Merc 1000 (100hp) Short Shaft. I missed 2 last year and have not seen one since. it is the first year there is no exposed recoil pull start in the hood. I also do not really want the 1966 110's, nor the later year 100's as the ignition changed. I want the points and coils. I almost bought a 90hp of the same year and it ran, but had bad carb leak while running and wires rotting and came with a boat that was too far gone to turn around with trailer that it just was not worth the trouble. I drove 4 hours to look it over - the one craigslist picture of the rig was from 4 years earlier when aluminum boat was painted. It needed tons of work when up close. I am having a hard time finding the short shaft 1965 model 100 hp. Thanks for asking.

I will keep an eye out. You find a short shaft conversion then the project in my garage would work for you!!! I will probably start putting it back together in the next few months.

I know that Curse / Kyle is looking for a 1000 short shaft too. He lives in lower Michigan, so maybe the two of you can help each other too.

There was one up in upper Lower MI that he was looking for info on. I will bump that posting to see whats up. I just checked out the listing and it is post 65 - looks like a Thunderbolt

What specific years are Curse looking for? That will help me keep my eyes open for him. I also run down to Michigan Area of Indiana, so Maybe I can even help get a Wisconsin or Mn motor closer to him.

I suppose even if I find a '65 90hp with blown motor, maybe I can get a short shaft lower unit and then keep looking for a 100hp upper with bad lower unit. Certainly easier for me to just get a complete motor since I am NO mechanic and NO expert like many on here.

Sounds like the 1000 we were looking at in lower MI was sold already. All I know is that he was looking for a short shaft 1000. I would send him a direct message and see what he is looking for.

Mark - please know that I have no plans for the 65 1000 in my garage with the bad lower unit. It is in pieces, but I think it is probably still good to go. I have not problems letting it go if you want it. It just needs to be put back together with a good lower unit.

Just let me know.

I am interested. PM me with details (condition and if you know compression) and your thoughts on a price. I realize I have a big project ahead of me if I want to make it short shaft since it would be better to start with a short shaft mid section and lower from another donor motor.

All right gurus - I listened to your advice and we found some keys in town. 3 for under $7!! Much better than the hotwiring or rewiring the motor plan.

It had a really weak battery, bad gas, dirty carbs, and old plugs (although they looked OK when I shot some sea foam into the cylinders!. The video below is truly not the "first fire" but after I got done shooting cheater fluid into the carbs and it was starting to run on its own juice.

Heres the video:

www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=PzRclO-9L1U&u=/watch%3Fv%3DIPumDVkuOTc%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner

Question time for the gurus -

this is my first Merc, and the telltale had no water flow. Is there a thermostat that would be closed and not routing water that would then hit the telltale?

Or can I assume that I need a new impeller? I really did not let it run too long because I was afraid of messing up the motor.

And no, there is not a spider web or other junk blocking the telltale. I am green, but not that green.

Let me know your thoughts.

Lots of compression. The starter was working hard at first. Really cracks too.

Sounds pretty good! No thermostat on this motor, if the telltale hose is not plugged, you need a new impeller. Or more water pressure on the flusher, I can't tell!

Usually you need to have enough water pressure so that when the motor starts, there's a bit of water spraying out of the muffs. This ensures the water pump is completely flooded.

BTW a good way to clear plugged telltales is to give 'em a blast of compressed air from a nozzle. Works even better if the nozzle is rubber-tipped. You'll hear the air flowing freely if the telltale passages are clear.

I would replace the impeller regardless. Motor's been sitting and you don't want to fry a $2000 powerhead for a $16 impeller.

Feel the exhaust manifold cover while it's running. If there's no water circulation, it'll get hot very fast. If it stays cool while the block warms ever so slightly, you've got water flowing thru the powerhead.

Another good indication is if the water pouring out of the prop hub is warmer than the supply. That means it's picking up heat from the powerhead.

But replace that impeller anyway before you take it out on the water!!!!!!!

The water coming out of the motor was warm. I walked around after running it and I was surprised how warm the wet grass was. I still don't trust it without the telltale flowing. I will try giving it a blast of air tomorrow and see whats happening. I was planning to replace the impeller anyway.

Just ran the motor, didn't shift the gears. I didn't change the gear oil yet.

Here are some pics from Fridays clean-up. Everything seems pretty solid, just going to take some elbow grease. Biggest issue is getting the motor cleaned up and T&T working. Biggest cosmetic issue is the broken windshield

what a gorgeous color!

Nice shorts you're wearing Mark
PBR?
Boat is looking good.

UC - Thanks! Once you get the grime off the hull it really sparkles and shines. Can't wait to clean everything up enough so that it is ready for a coat of wax - or three. Water just sits flat on it right now.


Cal - I figured Meghan would spray me with the hose - and I was right - so I a nice tropical camoflage swimsuit on. I was working on a boat project, so of course it was PBR. I might drink up all of your blue bottles if you don't get over here soon.

BTW - with the way the Marlin is coming along I will be ready for a "Battle of 135s" in a couple weeks. Not sure I will have the T&T completely done, but I should have the carbs cleaned and some fresh gas and make sure the motor is cooling correctly. Hopefully I will do my engine work right and it is race instead of a rescue mission!!!

Looks like the battle of the 135's isn't going to happen. Cal must have got nervous about losing and decided to sell the overpowered rowboat.

Probably a good thing, because I just went home for lunch and noticed this:





I had already had the oil dry down to pick up the puddle of fluid that came from the T&T. I probably didn't notice this because I thought it was from the T&T. But I put down some addtl oil dry yesterday, and this is a fresh patch on top of it.

Looks like a leaky lower unit. Guess now I am going to do that impeller change, and potentially a lot more. I will clean it off and see where it is coming from, but I am going to guess the propshaft area. If you look close you can see the line of drips coming down the back of the skeg.

Are you sure that wasn't plan B? "Gee, can't do it, having LW problems"

Dripping down the back of the skeg might just be unburned fuel? Check for milky oil.

See you tomorrow.
Cal

Looks like "snot" from the motor to me. If it doesn't stink of sulfur and smells gassy/oily, it's just discharge from the powerhead. Normal stuff.

Pop the drain plug on the L/U and if it's milky, that's a problem. If the oil is clean, don't worry about it.

Your Marlin is a copy of the Schuster Tahiti Torino. The Siderwinder SS is also a copy along with a number of others. The Hull is a Copy of the Glastron Carlson deep vee back in the days.

The windshield is next to impossible to find intact as no one ever made any aftermarket windshields for these. If you can find one (they are all the same windshield) they run around $500 and up. I would try to put yours back in the frame and maybe try one of those laser glue pens.

If you don't find a key I have a complete mercury control box that came off a 1978 Mercury 1150 Tower with the key. Just looked at your pic's again and my control box wont work without pinching the cables...same problem I had when I upgraded to a 2011 150 HP Optimax.

Upgraded the steering to Hydraulic, I need to switch out the 55 MPH Speedo back to the 80 MPH unit.

Changed the prop from a 3 blade 17P to a 4 Blade SS 20P and what a difference that made last run was a smooth, flat 47-48 MPH before I ran out of water....little ponds.

Sometime this week or next I should have another 4 blade 22P SS prop and a lifting eye for the motor so I can install a 4 inch set back 4 inch lift jack plate.

Karsten

I like your set-up Karsten, but that is not in the cards for this boat. This boat needs to maintain a wet and stable hull as it is for the kids to drive. They need to work into controlling the boat as it is before we start tricking it out.

My GT-150 on the other hand......

Cal and Ed - you guys are probably right that I jumped the gun on a LU leak. I looked "upstream" and saw clues that what is dripping is likely coming from the powerhead. When priming, each carb was dripping some fuel out of the front of it and dripping into the catch pan in the bottom of the cowl. I imagine that is what I am seeing hit the floor.



I will clean it up a little tonight and degrease the lower unit. That will give me a good clue if and where any future leaks are coming from. I will also hook up my compressor and try blowing open the telltale. I will probably want to replace the impeller anyway, but that will give me an idea of whats going on.

Cal - got your message that you are out for tonight. Let me know about tomorrow if you don't have plans for the Packer game.

63LStriton wrote:

I like your set-up Karsten, but that is not in the cards for this boat. This boat needs to maintain a wet and stable hull as it is for the kids to drive. They need to work into controlling the boat as it is before we start tricking it out.

My GT-150 on the other hand......

I know what you are sayin.....it for them to learn. But the boat handles so much better with a 4 blade prop than it did with a 3 blade.....Maybe a 4 blade 17P and try out a 4 Blade 20P-22P for you GT-150.

Check ebay for Michigan Wheel SS props and they are about the same as buying a alloy prop.

The boat and the GT-150 to will have a completely different attitude with a 4 Blade Prop.

My going from a 3 blade 17P TO THE 4 blade 20P was a completely different boat.....Handled better, ran flatter and took the wakes better at 40 plus MPH.

Not wantin you to make a race boat for them but maybe something to look at.

Gel coat is looking great as well....Not sure if you have a buffer but Boat Candy has a complete line of compounds and polishing

Karsten

Karsten - All we have hit the boat with so far is a little Mr Clean / Dawn misture to get off the dirt and grime. We didn't graduate to wet sanding the trouble spots and then getting out the buffing compounds and waxes. I have a feeling that it will really take a shine.

Ed - I hooked up the compressor this evening and gave the telltale a good shot of air. I could hear it blowing all the way down to the lower unit. Didn't have time to hook up the motor and run it as I spent most of the evening doing one of the most enjoyable aspects of boating - fixing the &*#%(*#$&!!! trailer lights that aren't working right!!!

Hooked everything up perfect, wrapped it, and put everything in place. Looks great - doesn't work!!! I need to put a meter to check for continuity before I start tearing everything down. I swear that it is faster doing a re-wire instead of fixing the bad wires!!

Mark, if absolutely nothing works on your lights it is more than likely the ground connection. Don't trust the trailer frame to be a ground. I usually run the white (ground) wire to each light. A little more effort but will not fail if there is rust on the trailer.

I'll give it a shot Marty. Only problem is one side is working and the other is not. There are grounds running to each light. I think there is a break in the yellow wire that I did not see

And yes - I did check the bulb!!!!!

Ed - a couple more shots of karma for you!! After blowing out the telltale last night I rolled out the Marlin tonight and fired her up. Still needs some shots of cheater juice - haven't cleaned the carbs yet - but it fired up and behold - pissing out the side of the motor!!! Halleleiuh!

Not the strongest stream that I have seen on a motor. Water out of the telltale was definitely warm. Not sure if that means something is still blocking the stream or that the impeller is bad. Probably a question for the Merc gurus......

www.youtube.com/attribution_link?a=BFID3Sohqrk&u=/watch%3Fv%3DpmNvFVhYZ40%26feature%3Dem-upload_owner

Looks typical for an Inline. Is that with a new impeller or the old one still? A bit warm isn't extremely unusual, but if it gets hot, that's a problem.

If that's with an old impeller, I wouldn't expect more. But pls don't run it in the lake without a new one! The old thing could break and cause even more problems than just lack of water (such as rubber bits in the block!).

Thats the old impeller. I am just about to call the Packer scrub game and go let the Merc run for 10 minutes or so. The telltale was warm, but not hot. Just used to it always being cold out of OMCs

Warm is actually better as it makes me think the water is doing what it is supposed to. I better order the impeller quick as the kids are going to want to get their boat on the water. I still am running the dirty gas in it too.

Ed - is there and easy way to take the carbs off, or do you need to take most of the front and all the linkage off?

63LStriton wrote:

Ed - is there and easy way to take the carbs off, or do you need to take most of the front and all the linkage off?

Probably be easier to pull the top cowling, unbolt the fwd cowling support from the lower cowl (2 bolts), then lay that forward for better access. Probably have to pull the starter too or you won't be able to get to that side of the carbs.

Disconnect all (3) filter bowls at top of the carbs then pull the entire fuel line/filter assy off the carbs at once & lay back.

All 3 carbs will come off with linkages intact and then you can deal with 'em on the bench.

Note if they're not that bad, you can leave the carb bodies in place and pop the top of each float chamber, pull the floats out, pull the idle mixture needles out, pull each brass main jet plug (along with the little gasket), then give the carbs a good spritz with carb cleaner in all orifices, followed by a good blowout with compressed air.

Unless the carbs are green inside or badly varnished (and I assume they're not, since it sounded like it's running OK), you don't have to tear the carbs completely apart.

Renew the floats if they're the old-style non-ethanol-resistant; renew the needles/seats if they were leaking, otherwise leave 'em alone.

Check float spring height, adjust float height and needle drop on the tops, put things back together with new carb packing kits, and you're good to go!

Ran it again at half time of the Packer game. Still sending out a warm stream out of the telltale. Put my hands on the intake and exhaust, and after a while it was getting uncomfortably warm to the touch. Shut her down.

Ordered an impeller for the 110, 1350, and 1500. Why fight the obvious.

End of story.