I've had a 1974 9.9 for years and preformed all the maintenance and repairs(gear replacement, water pump, coils, etc) Now I'm the proud owner of the title engine. (I'll be a little more proud when I get it pressure washed, there were mice in it...) The generator has been removed, and my brothers '62 Big Twin generator has also been removed. Were these being used for something else? Wind generators or something? Y2K emergency preparations? Anyway, are there any generators out there in your spare parts bins? I understand the engine will run on the battery alone, until it runs out of charge and the gear clutch releases its spring, and voila! no forward propulsion! Do I have that correct? I also noticed the choke solenoid was removed (I hope the pistons are still inside... so I e-Bayed one of those and the bracket. There is a spring inside the solenoid, does that mount on the pin in the bottom of the solenoid and fit up inside the plunger that is attached to the choke spring? I'm glad I can figure things out...
Does anyone know if it would be possible to use a later model year ('73+) flywheel/magneto assembly with the charge and exciter coil/regulator with external coil design to get some charging while the engine is running?
First, I got your mail. I don't know the answers to those questions but there are two persons on this site that will have them, Jim Mandros and Bruce Gerrard. Bruce walked me through a change out of my '66 100 hp from cdi to conventional ign. You're talking about a lot of changing. My first motor was a '68 40hp Rude without a generator and I never had a problem with the battery running dead, it uses it to start the motor only and just sits there unless you use your mooring lights. If you have the electric shift I think if you lose power the gear defaults into forward.
On the old electric shift, when the respective Fwd or Reverse electromagnet is energized, it causes the Fwd or Reverse spring to engage its clutch hub to drive the propshaft. When the magnets are deenergized, the gearbox is in Neutral.
So, if you lose power you have no drive at all. Or if a spring breaks, as happened one sunny day Many Moons ago to my Dad while we were fishing in our Glasspar Avalon with a 60hp electric shift V4, you have to motor back to the boat ramp in Reverse! I still recall sitting on the bow with my Uncle, to keep water from pouring over the stern.
On the magneto upgrade, I can't recall if they changed the top of the block casting to accommodate the new-style mag plate. That would be the biggest concern and you'd probably just have to find one and test-fit it. Be sure to get all the parts that go with the plate mounting, as they are quite different from the old-style. I suppose you could make some sort of mounting plate for the external coils. There should be enough room inside to hang the plate in a similar position as the later model engine.
Well I picked up a generator on e-bay. The sprocket is different from the original shown on the schematic. I hoped they would be interchangeable. Apparently not. The sprocket is 1 in wide, where the one on the schematic is about 3/8 in. And there is an alignment issue, the height is not matching the drive sprocket on the flywheel. I think it may be from a V4 style engine, though other generators listed with this same sprocket claim to be from the 40 hp. Were there different length shafts on the generator if used on the V4? The pictures of other generators show more shaft length. Or perhaps the "correct" sprocket has sufficient reach to be in line with the flywheel? Maybe I could drill a hole and put a set screw in . . .
Remove the sprocket from the shaft. When I bench tested mine I found that there was a spacer on the shaft to raise the sprocket to match up with the engine belt pulley. You may have to remove the spacer if the sprocket sits too high for you. If I recall it's about a 1/2" to 3/4" spacer.
I circled the area here. Mine has no keyway for the sprocket, just sits on the shaft with no way of really tightening it down because the shaft turns with the top nut. My nut is just about flush with the top of the shaft when installed.
ohhhh, a spacer, maybe that is what I need, my sprocket sits too low.... did it thread on the shaft or was it like a tube that fit over the shaft? If I raise my pulley up, I don't have threads for the nut . . .maybe I need to get the right pulley . . .
I'm doing a cut and paste here from the iboats forum. If you look close by the two bottom terminals you will see a tiny "F" and I think the other is "A" I put a jumper between the F and the generator case. and then run a wire from the generator case to a battery ground, touch another jumper from the A terminal to the battery + and the generator should run like a motor. Just a slight touch though cuz rumor has it that if you let it run like a motor things will go bad. This should also polarize the generator in the right direction. I still haven't gotten my boat out on the water for a speed test to see if the generator works.
"There is a very simple test for the generator. You need a couple of jumper wires with alligator clips on each end.
1. Remove the belt.
2. Just to be safe, I prefer to disconnect the wires from the generator.
3. The battery negative cable must be hooked up.
4. Clip a jumper wire to the generator Field terminal stud. That is the smaller one. Clip the other end to a good ground on the powerhead.
5. Clip another jumper to the battery positive terminal. Clip the other end to the generator Armature terminal. That is the larger one. The generator should run slowly like a motor. If it does, the generator is working. Run it just long enough for a test. It is not good to run it long and overheat it.
This only determines whether it is working NOW. It says nothing about the condition of the brushes etc.
Make sure you identify the larger and smaller terminals correctly. If you hook it up backwards it will polarize the generator backwards. Let's not get into that just now.
Hi All! I pulled the lower unit to change the impeller. Before pulling it, I tried the forward and reverse buttons, they were locking the clutches. When I pulled it, the was some bare wire showing through a crack in the insulation. I checked the resistance, none, either between the two coils or between coil and ground. The manual says there should be 8 ohms . . . Could this be due to improper(conductive) lube? or anything else? I'd rather not have to rebuild it, but that is partly why I bought it...
As the saying goes. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". If the clutches are locking up like they are supposed to I would leave them alone. Clean up all those bare/cracked areas with some solvent and use some heat shrink tube to fix 'em up.
Sounds like you already know this but there is a special lube for the lower unit. Type "c" from OMC. There are some knock off brands but I usually stick with the OMC brand. Those are $$$$$ units to replace.
So I opened the water pump. There is a little pitting and some ridge worn into the housing and plate. The gear case seal is worn away and the driveshaft is wobbly, probably why the seal is worn, unless some wobble is normal, I doubt it. That is a needle bearing. Will the needles fall out if I remove the driveshaft to just change the seal? I kinda think so. I doubt that I could get the bearing out without opening the lower halves, and then what is the likelihood the drive shaft is worn too much... oh brother..... any thoughts?
Just my thought but unless you're pretty handy with wrenches and loaded with cash it might be less trouble to either get a different lower unit or see what's available on Craigslist. I see that one needle bearing is $140. + not to mention what you might find if you open it up.
On another note. At Kosh I'll be looking for someone to ride along when my motor would be taking it's initial first open water run. You have to be knowledgeable on use of a paddle and towing line handling. Or things just might go alright.
Cal, I would be honored to ride with you! I need to clear it all with my wife... When do you think this would happen?
Also the bearing in question is #28 under the water pump, I wouldn't need to pull the prop shaft . . .
It would be Saturday afternoon when most of the group goes out for a group run. Just a cruise around the lake and then back. If the Admiral wants to come along she's more than welcome, I'll throw in an extra life jacket. Plenty of seating in that buggy. The Anchor Inn where the event is held has their own bar and grill. The admission price for boat owners covers everything including tickets for drinks and food.
Here's their site to look around on.
Ok, sounds great. I'm and excited to meet you and go for a ride! A nice overcast forecast so we don't have to worry about sunburn too! (trying to be optimistic, there is rain expected). I still hope to bring my Rocket, I need lot's of advice. My buddy also just bought one on Saturday! Much nicer than mine! I don't know if he'll bring his (why not?). He has the fever, this is his first boat! Should be fun!
Right, could just as well spend 3 hrs (each way) chatting on here, or on the phone! The weatherunderground site is showing 75% at 10 am through 10 pm... it could change, but . . . . I'm trying to get the upper seal under the water pump out without removing the driveshaft, since I don't want to mess with the needle bearings around the pinion gear and drive shaft. however is Saturday is rained out I could not be in a hurry to get it back together, but the drive shaft is necked down, and the seal between the 2 lower halves is leaked when I turned it upside down to drain more of the gear lube out. So a drive shaft and upper bearing and seal with the middle seal would be a complete fix, without going into the gearbox itself. How are those pinion bearings to work with? I am good with the tools, a little short on cash...
Ok, humpty dumpty is back together! Good enough for now. So what oil/fuel ratio should be used ? (1966 40 hp Evinrude Lark) I think I read that 24:1 I had an outboard mechanic tell me that leaner mixtures can be used with the newer lubricants. What mixture should be used? Should some sort of re-lead be used? The carb was rebuilt in 2008 so the seals and gaskets should be good with the ethanol...